Overland Build: Yellow Jeep XJ
12-13-2015, 12:49 PM
#46
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
Just thought I might mention that I don't believe HD Offroad Engineering makes them anymore. But at least it will give you a general idea of the roof rails.
12-17-2015, 09:50 AM
#48
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
Alternator Relocation
Decided to relocate my alternator to a more elevated position.
I will be installing it where my Air Conditioner Compressor was.
I don't like AC, it's a Jeep and I drive with the windows down.
I had previously completely removed my AC System (compressor, condenser, canister, hoses etc) and had a basic bypass pulley in place.
So I decided to relocate my Alternator to where my AC was, like it is on the Grand Cherokees. Makes more sense to me, it is up higher, more out of the elements.
Bottom of the engine will get more water and road/trail dust, and wear out alt's rather quickly.
I live in the "North Country" and as such I do a lot of water crossings.
This will be the 2nd alternator i will be replacing in as many years.
So before I get a new alternator, I am going to relocate the old one and field test it.
Keep in mind that as usual I did not take a lot of pictures. I always seem to forget to take pictures while in progress of vehicle modifications. It is usually an afterthought when I am done.
And lately when I do remember it's now December so it's cold and my cell doesn't like to take pics and shuts down. So limited pics.
Parts Removal
I will be using the AC bracket, so we left it connected.The Alternator bracket we will save, and mount it to the AC bracket up above.
Modifications
We line up the Alt Bracket onto the AC bracket, decide what we need to grind down to make it fit flat, and make the necessary alterations.
We then drill holes through both brackets, secure bolts and attach Alt bracket to the AC bracket, thus becoming one Alternator bracket.
We then test fit the Alt in the new position, and take measurements for a new length belt, as we now have one less pulley. Due to clearance issues we will also need a new radiator hose, as the old one is too short and sits on top of the Alt, becoming compressed when the hood is closed.
Parts Needed
Currently my new favorite mod, and I will do this to every XJ I own from here on out.
Keeps the Alternator high in the engine compartment so as to reduce contact to elements, allows ease of access to Alternator, removes a pulley from the equation so less draw on the engine and adds more space to the engine compartment.
Now that I have the Alt up and out of the way, I will invest in a better quality, higher amperage Alternator and cables.
Eventually I will delete the clutch fan in favor of two driver controlled electric fans, thus removing another pulley and needing a shorter serpentine belt. But that is a project for another time.
If I had the time and the temperature was better I would have done both mods simultaneously.
This is what happens when you work on a Jeep in your driveway in December in New England. You cut projects short and get it done ASAP.
Decided to relocate my alternator to a more elevated position.
I will be installing it where my Air Conditioner Compressor was.
I don't like AC, it's a Jeep and I drive with the windows down.
I had previously completely removed my AC System (compressor, condenser, canister, hoses etc) and had a basic bypass pulley in place.
So I decided to relocate my Alternator to where my AC was, like it is on the Grand Cherokees. Makes more sense to me, it is up higher, more out of the elements.
Bottom of the engine will get more water and road/trail dust, and wear out alt's rather quickly.
I live in the "North Country" and as such I do a lot of water crossings.
This will be the 2nd alternator i will be replacing in as many years.
So before I get a new alternator, I am going to relocate the old one and field test it.
Keep in mind that as usual I did not take a lot of pictures. I always seem to forget to take pictures while in progress of vehicle modifications. It is usually an afterthought when I am done.
And lately when I do remember it's now December so it's cold and my cell doesn't like to take pics and shuts down. So limited pics.
Parts Removal
- Loosened Idler pulley
- Remove Serpentine Belt
- Remove or unbolt Clutch Fan Shroud
- Remove Radiator Hose
- Remove Battery and Tray
- Remove AC Bypass Pulley
- Remove Alternator and Brackets
I will be using the AC bracket, so we left it connected.The Alternator bracket we will save, and mount it to the AC bracket up above.
Modifications
We line up the Alt Bracket onto the AC bracket, decide what we need to grind down to make it fit flat, and make the necessary alterations.
We then drill holes through both brackets, secure bolts and attach Alt bracket to the AC bracket, thus becoming one Alternator bracket.
We then test fit the Alt in the new position, and take measurements for a new length belt, as we now have one less pulley. Due to clearance issues we will also need a new radiator hose, as the old one is too short and sits on top of the Alt, becoming compressed when the hood is closed.
Parts Needed
- Nuts and Bolts
- Serpentine Belt (76 1/2")
- Radiator Hose (94 and older XJ Rad Hose worked)
- Sockets and Wrenches
- Drill
- Grinder
Currently my new favorite mod, and I will do this to every XJ I own from here on out.
Keeps the Alternator high in the engine compartment so as to reduce contact to elements, allows ease of access to Alternator, removes a pulley from the equation so less draw on the engine and adds more space to the engine compartment.
Now that I have the Alt up and out of the way, I will invest in a better quality, higher amperage Alternator and cables.
Eventually I will delete the clutch fan in favor of two driver controlled electric fans, thus removing another pulley and needing a shorter serpentine belt. But that is a project for another time.
If I had the time and the temperature was better I would have done both mods simultaneously.
This is what happens when you work on a Jeep in your driveway in December in New England. You cut projects short and get it done ASAP.
Mounted Alternator Bracket to AC Bracket
Alternator Test Fit Mock Up
New Serpentine Belt Route
Stock 01 XJ Radiator Hose Clearance Issue
94 & Older XJ Radiator Hose Fit
Alternator Test Fit Mock Up
New Serpentine Belt Route
Stock 01 XJ Radiator Hose Clearance Issue
94 & Older XJ Radiator Hose Fit
12-17-2015, 09:54 AM
#49
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alternator Relocation Decided to relocate my alternator to a more elevated position. I will be installing it where my Air Conditioner Compressor was. I don't like AC, it's a Jeep and I drive with the windows down. I had previously completely removed my AC System (compressor, condenser, canister, hoses etc) and had a basic bypass pulley in place. So I decided to relocate my Alternator to where my AC was, like it is on the Grand Cherokees. Makes more sense to me, it is up higher, more out of the elements. Bottom of the engine will get more water and road/trail dust, and wear out alt's rather quickly. I live in the "North Country" and as such I do a lot of water crossings. This will be the 2nd alternator i will be replacing in as many years. So before I get a new alternator, I am going to relocate the old one and field test it. Keep in mind that as usual I did not take a lot of pictures. I always seem to forget to take pictures while in progress of vehicle modifications. It is usually an afterthought when I am done. And lately when I do remember it's now December so it's cold and my cell doesn't like to take pics and shuts down. So limited pics. Parts Removal[*]Loosened Idler pulley[*]Remove Serpentine Belt[*]Remove or unbolt Clutch Fan Shroud[*]Remove Radiator Hose[*]Remove Battery and Tray[*]Remove AC Bypass Pulley[*]Remove Alternator and Brackets Getting as much out of the way as possible so that we had more room to work with. Pretty standard stuff so far. I will be using the AC bracket, so we left it connected.The Alternator bracket we will save, and mount it to the AC bracket up above. Modifications We line up the Alt Bracket onto the AC bracket, decide what we need to grind down to make it fit flat, and make the necessary alterations. We then drill holes through both brackets, secure bolts and attach Alt bracket to the AC bracket, thus becoming one Alternator bracket. We then test fit the Alt in the new position, and take measurements for a new length belt, as we now have one less pulley. Due to clearance issues we will also need a new radiator hose, as the old one is too short and sits on top of the Alt, becoming compressed when the hood is closed. Parts Needed[*]Nuts and Bolts[*]Serpentine Belt (76 1/2")[*]Radiator Hose (94 and older XJ Rad Hose worked) Tools Needed[*]Sockets and Wrenches[*]Drill[*]Grinder Results Currently my new favorite mod, and I will do this to every XJ I own from here on out. Keeps the Alternator high in the engine compartment so as to reduce contact to elements, allows ease of access to Alternator, removes a pulley from the equation so less draw on the engine and adds more space to the engine compartment. Now that I have the Alt up and out of the way, I will invest in a better quality, higher amperage Alternator and cables. Eventually I will delete the clutch fan in favor of two driver controlled electric fans, thus removing another pulley and needing a shorter serpentine belt. But that is a project for another time. If I had the time and the temperature was better I would have done both mods simultaneously. This is what happens when you work on a Jeep in your driveway in December in New England. You cut projects short and get it done ASAP. Mounted Alternator Bracket to AC Bracket Alternator Test Fit Mock Up New Serpentine Belt Route Stock 01 XJ Radiator Hose Clearance Issue 94 & Older XJ Radiator Hose Fit
Last edited by 93XJeeper; 12-17-2015 at 09:56 AM.
12-17-2015, 03:10 PM
#51
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
Send me the youtube link, curious to see how you went about it.
12-17-2015, 05:08 PM
#52
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you consider converting the ac compressor in to on board air? Or some type of air compressor where the alternator once was.
I like the raised alternator...very cool idea...
Great looking / functional build...
I like the raised alternator...very cool idea...
Great looking / functional build...
12-18-2015, 04:04 PM
#54
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
Looking to reduce as much mechanical draw by deleting as many pulleys as I can. So I wasn't interested in doing the compressor mod. It's a good mod for those that like it, but I am trying to simplify my engine set up.
12-18-2015, 04:18 PM
#55
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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I will be installing a dedicated On-board Air System in my cargo area, most likely a VAIR. Looking to reduce as much mechanical draw by deleting as many pulleys as I can. So I wasn't interested in doing the compressor mod. It's a good mod for those that like it, but I am trying to simplify my engine set up.
12-19-2015, 07:50 AM
#56
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Year: 1997
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Great idea ditch the power steering and go manual and then ditch the mechanical fan..go to the Taurus which will reduce more parasitic drag and the fans could be turned off during the water / mud crossings.
This would get the compressor, powersteering and fan pullies all off. Will you be changing the existing pully bearings to new ones so the have the least friction for performance?
Will you dyno afterwards to see how much mechanical draw of power you have reduced by removing the AC compressor? What are you estimating?
I like where he is going with this....
This would get the compressor, powersteering and fan pullies all off. Will you be changing the existing pully bearings to new ones so the have the least friction for performance?
Will you dyno afterwards to see how much mechanical draw of power you have reduced by removing the AC compressor? What are you estimating?
I like where he is going with this....
Last edited by Jrozar; 12-19-2015 at 07:53 AM.
12-19-2015, 08:39 AM
#57
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Great idea ditch the power steering and go manual and then ditch the mechanical fan..go to the Taurus which will reduce more parasitic drag and the fans could be turned off during the water / mud crossings. This would get the compressor, powersteering and fan pullies all off. Will you be changing the existing pully bearings to new ones so the have the least friction for performance? Will you dyno afterwards to see how much mechanical draw of power you have reduced by removing the AC compressor? What are you estimating? I like where he is going with this....
12-19-2015, 01:21 PM
#58
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Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
It's a good idea. Eventually I would like to.
I agree, for the sake of documenting any possible gains it would have been beneficial to perform a before and after dyno test on the rig, at multiple different stages.
I never really thought ahead about specific numbers, I would just decide to delete something on a particular day and simply field test it to judge gains a "seat of your pants" factor. I have made a lot of mods that some people are curious about seeing actual concrete statistical proof of the benefits of these mods.
I sit around with friends, say "hey I wonder what will happen if...", and we get to doing it. I even forget to take pictures most of the time.
Part of the reason why I write on these forums, to at least somewhat document what the hell I've done to the Jeep. Even now I look back at the build and go "Oh yeah, I forgot all about that."
When I do another XJ build, I will dyno before and after every step of the way. I can still dyno this build when I am done, and compare it to a dyno of a bone stock one of the same year to get a loose ballpark figure of the gains from all modifications combined. But I would need to start from scratch with a new build to get precise figures from each mod obviously. The good thing is that I like each of these mods so I would definitely do it again, and will go "hand me down" with parts to my new build as I learn and refine my mods and techniques.
I have a friend with a Ford Contour he's scraping, I am going to take that fan out of it and install in to my XJ when I do the clutch fan delete. Both fans will be controlled from the cabin. So that I can shut them off during water crossings and mud. I am constantly covering my engine compartment with whatever elements I drive through due to that clutch fan spreading it everywhere.
Great idea ditch the power steering and go manual and then ditch the mechanical fan..go to the Taurus which will reduce more parasitic drag and the fans could be turned off during the water / mud crossings.
This would get the compressor, powersteering and fan pullies all off. Will you be changing the existing pully bearings to new ones so the have the least friction for performance?
Will you dyno afterwards to see how much mechanical draw of power you have reduced by removing the AC compressor? What are you estimating?
I like where he is going with this....
This would get the compressor, powersteering and fan pullies all off. Will you be changing the existing pully bearings to new ones so the have the least friction for performance?
Will you dyno afterwards to see how much mechanical draw of power you have reduced by removing the AC compressor? What are you estimating?
I like where he is going with this....
well he should've gotten a before dyno to really see what it does power wise. I've always thought it would be cool to do all that stuff but then I remember I don't have the money to do it, can't have my jeep down since its DD and if I screw up I'm just up the creek.
I never really thought ahead about specific numbers, I would just decide to delete something on a particular day and simply field test it to judge gains a "seat of your pants" factor. I have made a lot of mods that some people are curious about seeing actual concrete statistical proof of the benefits of these mods.
I sit around with friends, say "hey I wonder what will happen if...", and we get to doing it. I even forget to take pictures most of the time.
Part of the reason why I write on these forums, to at least somewhat document what the hell I've done to the Jeep. Even now I look back at the build and go "Oh yeah, I forgot all about that."
When I do another XJ build, I will dyno before and after every step of the way. I can still dyno this build when I am done, and compare it to a dyno of a bone stock one of the same year to get a loose ballpark figure of the gains from all modifications combined. But I would need to start from scratch with a new build to get precise figures from each mod obviously. The good thing is that I like each of these mods so I would definitely do it again, and will go "hand me down" with parts to my new build as I learn and refine my mods and techniques.
I have a friend with a Ford Contour he's scraping, I am going to take that fan out of it and install in to my XJ when I do the clutch fan delete. Both fans will be controlled from the cabin. So that I can shut them off during water crossings and mud. I am constantly covering my engine compartment with whatever elements I drive through due to that clutch fan spreading it everywhere.
12-19-2015, 04:50 PM
#60
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"