And Now For Something Completely Different - Clown's YJ Build
09-27-2016, 12:26 PM
#841
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
My Teraflex high steer knuckle was delivered this morning, and then I went to pick up the brake parts, a new TRE, and a ball joint kit. The ball joints will be delivered tomorrow while I work on it.
After receiving the knuckle, I'm pretty certain I can install my JCR 1-ton inverted-T kit from the old axle in a crossover configuration. I believe there was a misunderstanding when I spoke with Teraflex on the phone about the topic, so here's hoping I can ditch the tiny OEM linkage I've been using all year since the axle swap. Factory steering does NOT like 37" tires.
When I got home from Advance, I found my new GenRight fuel cell waiting by my door. It arrived a day early, but it's gonna have to wait until the weekend. One fix at a time!
After receiving the knuckle, I'm pretty certain I can install my JCR 1-ton inverted-T kit from the old axle in a crossover configuration. I believe there was a misunderstanding when I spoke with Teraflex on the phone about the topic, so here's hoping I can ditch the tiny OEM linkage I've been using all year since the axle swap. Factory steering does NOT like 37" tires.
When I got home from Advance, I found my new GenRight fuel cell waiting by my door. It arrived a day early, but it's gonna have to wait until the weekend. One fix at a time!
09-28-2016, 11:01 PM
#844
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Worked on it all day in the cold *** rain with my89xj. Made good progress and got the old JCR steering fitted, but there are a couple problems.
First, Teraflex only included one of the tapered inserts I need for the 3/4 ton Chevy rod ends. The holes on the knuckle are drilled to 7/8", and they supply tapered inserts so you can use stock or 3/4 ton steering. Since I wasn't sure what would fit, the Teraflex rep said he would send me both sets. I was impressed. Until we were almost finished, and I realized I had one 3/4 ton insert and one that's smaller than stock.
Second, the insert that we were able to use is in the upper arm for the drag link. The TRE fits through it, but we can't get enough spline engagement on the castle nut to install a cotter pin. I'm unsure of what to do about that. I suspect we'll have the same problem with the tie rod when I get another insert.
Finally, the rubber dust boots on both sides of the tie rod are lightly touching the rotors. They were fine on the mock up, but once they compress and expand, they touch the rotors. Unsure of what to do there.
(Obviously, the alignment hasn't been set)
First, Teraflex only included one of the tapered inserts I need for the 3/4 ton Chevy rod ends. The holes on the knuckle are drilled to 7/8", and they supply tapered inserts so you can use stock or 3/4 ton steering. Since I wasn't sure what would fit, the Teraflex rep said he would send me both sets. I was impressed. Until we were almost finished, and I realized I had one 3/4 ton insert and one that's smaller than stock.
Second, the insert that we were able to use is in the upper arm for the drag link. The TRE fits through it, but we can't get enough spline engagement on the castle nut to install a cotter pin. I'm unsure of what to do about that. I suspect we'll have the same problem with the tie rod when I get another insert.
Finally, the rubber dust boots on both sides of the tie rod are lightly touching the rotors. They were fine on the mock up, but once they compress and expand, they touch the rotors. Unsure of what to do there.
(Obviously, the alignment hasn't been set)
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-28-2016 at 11:05 PM.
09-29-2016, 05:42 AM
#845
Beach Bum
If referring to the tapered inserts for TRE that have an lip that sits on top or bottom of knuckle. I understand the added height of lip can prevent castle nut from fully engaging. Solution is to grind off lip, flush with knuckle. Insert was welded to knuckle.
It appears that driver side tie-rod may have interference issues with leaf spring during compression.
It appears that driver side tie-rod may have interference issues with leaf spring during compression.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 09-29-2016 at 05:44 AM.
09-29-2016, 07:34 AM
#846
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
It looks like I still have full steering ability, but I'm not 100% sure because it has so much toe out right now.
09-29-2016, 09:33 AM
#847
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Alright, I just got off the phone with Teraflex, and it looks like there was just a miscommunication.
I was supposed to receive a full set of stock AND a full set of 1-ton inserts, per my conversation with them when I ordered.
He said I did.
"No, I only received one large insert and three small ones."
"Exactly. You got an OEM drag link and two OEM tie rod ends, and the 1-ton you said you might need."
"I was supposed to receive one large tapered insert?"
"Yes. For your 1-ton tie rod."
"And what am I supposed to put in the 7/8" diameter hole for my drag link in my crossover steering configuration?"
...
"Oh. I see where there was a mistake in translation. I'll get one sent out immediately."
He was pretty cool about it, and I feel vindicated. Not even mad anymore. We talked about my situation, and he's sending two inserts overnight. One for the drag link, and one in case I have to flip my driver side to UTK for clearance. The inserts are $14ea, and we agreed on a $30 total charge to get them here tomorrow.
The situation is frustrating, but Teraflex is doing a great job of making it right. I'm very pleased with the service, and I wouldn't hesitate to order from them again.
On a side note, I learned something this morning. The Tie Rod Ends and the Drag Link Ends have the same shank diameter, the same thread pitch, and the same taper, so TREs and DLEs should be interchangeable.
The functional difference is that DLEs allow for 15° more misalignment due to their normally steep operating angle and the range of motion they experience as the pitman arm rotates. But! There's a problem with that. Although they both use a 1.5"/ft taper, the DLEs require a deeper ream because they have a larger shaft (? Sure, lets use that word). I think that's why my drag link won't seat enough to use the cotter pin.
Solution in my head:
-Get the new inserts tomorrow.
-Replace the passenger side DLE with a TRE so it fits properly into the tapered insert.
(Misalignment shouldn't be an issue with crossover steering, especially with a DLE on the pitman arm)
-Install the tapered inserts and tighten down the steering links
-Parking lot alignment
-FLEX TEST!
-Cry because the TRE boots are still touching the rotors
I was supposed to receive a full set of stock AND a full set of 1-ton inserts, per my conversation with them when I ordered.
He said I did.
"No, I only received one large insert and three small ones."
"Exactly. You got an OEM drag link and two OEM tie rod ends, and the 1-ton you said you might need."
"I was supposed to receive one large tapered insert?"
"Yes. For your 1-ton tie rod."
"And what am I supposed to put in the 7/8" diameter hole for my drag link in my crossover steering configuration?"
...
"Oh. I see where there was a mistake in translation. I'll get one sent out immediately."
He was pretty cool about it, and I feel vindicated. Not even mad anymore. We talked about my situation, and he's sending two inserts overnight. One for the drag link, and one in case I have to flip my driver side to UTK for clearance. The inserts are $14ea, and we agreed on a $30 total charge to get them here tomorrow.
The situation is frustrating, but Teraflex is doing a great job of making it right. I'm very pleased with the service, and I wouldn't hesitate to order from them again.
On a side note, I learned something this morning. The Tie Rod Ends and the Drag Link Ends have the same shank diameter, the same thread pitch, and the same taper, so TREs and DLEs should be interchangeable.
The functional difference is that DLEs allow for 15° more misalignment due to their normally steep operating angle and the range of motion they experience as the pitman arm rotates. But! There's a problem with that. Although they both use a 1.5"/ft taper, the DLEs require a deeper ream because they have a larger shaft (? Sure, lets use that word). I think that's why my drag link won't seat enough to use the cotter pin.
Solution in my head:
-Get the new inserts tomorrow.
-Replace the passenger side DLE with a TRE so it fits properly into the tapered insert.
(Misalignment shouldn't be an issue with crossover steering, especially with a DLE on the pitman arm)
-Install the tapered inserts and tighten down the steering links
-Parking lot alignment
-FLEX TEST!
-Cry because the TRE boots are still touching the rotors
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-29-2016 at 09:37 AM.
09-29-2016, 10:51 AM
#848
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
That's cool that they made it right. And overnighting the parts to boot.
****ty about the TRE grease boots. Is there a spacer you can install to move the rotor out?
09-29-2016, 11:42 AM
#849
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Another minor change of plans:
I found myself questioning whether my drag link is long enough to maintain sufficient thread engagement if I were to swap on a TRE instead of a DLE, since the available TREs are shorter. I started considering many different combinations of ends that might allow it to work, but then I found a better solution.
Chassis Unlimited makes an insert that fits the Teraflex 7/8" hole and is tapered for the Chevy 3/4 ton drag link.
http://www.chassisunlimited.com/tre-insert.html
I'll have two of them here on Saturday via USPS. $7 shipping vs $70 for overnight!
I found myself questioning whether my drag link is long enough to maintain sufficient thread engagement if I were to swap on a TRE instead of a DLE, since the available TREs are shorter. I started considering many different combinations of ends that might allow it to work, but then I found a better solution.
Chassis Unlimited makes an insert that fits the Teraflex 7/8" hole and is tapered for the Chevy 3/4 ton drag link.
http://www.chassisunlimited.com/tre-insert.html
I'll have two of them here on Saturday via USPS. $7 shipping vs $70 for overnight!
09-29-2016, 01:30 PM
#850
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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I also just called the venerable MrBlaine, purveyor of Black Magic Brakes, who has immense knowledge of Jeep vehicles and more experience with brakes than I ever want. In the middle of explaining my situation, he suggested exactly what I was going to ask about.
1999 was a split year for Wranglers (and XJs) in regards to brake rotors. '91-98 used the same rotor. '99 was split. '00-06 used the same rotor. This is due to the use of a different unit bearing, and the newer rotors are 1/4" shallower when mounted.
If I get 2000+ rotors, they should fit on my hubs and provide enough clearance without any adverse effects. The caveat there is I need to ensure the slide pins are long enough. As long as they are, he said it shouldn't cause any issues.
1999 was a split year for Wranglers (and XJs) in regards to brake rotors. '91-98 used the same rotor. '99 was split. '00-06 used the same rotor. This is due to the use of a different unit bearing, and the newer rotors are 1/4" shallower when mounted.
If I get 2000+ rotors, they should fit on my hubs and provide enough clearance without any adverse effects. The caveat there is I need to ensure the slide pins are long enough. As long as they are, he said it shouldn't cause any issues.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-29-2016 at 02:20 PM.
09-29-2016, 03:18 PM
#851
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
mmmm that's probably the reason the teraflex website lists the kit only for TJs and LJs, and not YJs and XJs, even though it will physically fit. It's all the damn hubs fault
09-29-2016, 03:25 PM
#852
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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But they list it for early XJs and TJs as well. When I talked to him, he said there were complaints about clearance with the frame on YJs, but I honestly don't know what he's talking about.
It used to be listed for YJs, too
It used to be listed for YJs, too
10-01-2016, 12:47 PM
#853
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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It's still early to tell, but it looks like the late model TJ rotors will work, and they giving about 1/4" more clearance, as expected. I had to finesse the caliper sliders and boots back, but the passenger side is mounted.
12-01-2016, 08:58 PM
#854
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2 MONTH UPDATE HOORAY BEERS ALL AROUND
Well, I've been driving it since October. The late model brake rotors did the job. I have enough clearance on my TRE boots, and the calipers just barely fit over the offset rotors.
I haven't touched the gas tank yet, but I finally put some paint down today. I sanded and painted the sides and top of the tub where the fuel cell will sit, painted the bottoms of the mounting tabs on the fuel cell, and painted the steel plate I'm using to sandwich the sheet metal at the mounting points.
I also bought some 40 mil PVC mat so the mounting tabs on the aluminum tank won't be in direct contact with the steel tub. It should significantly lessen wear while also helping to electrically isolate the metals. I'm really trying to prevent galvanic corrosion to the aluminum.
From top to bottom:
The fuel cell's tabs will rest on the PVC strips, which will sit on top of the fender wells, and the steel plates will go underneath to sandwich the factory sheet metal.
Regarding hardware:
I have six bolts, six nuts, twelve flat washers, and six rubber washers all in this size. Everything except the rubber washers is Grade 8.
Any suggestions regarding the best combination?
I'm thinking [Bolt>Rubber washer>Fuel Cell>PVC mat>Fender>Flat Stock>Washer>Nut] so the bolt head won't mar the aluminum cell and the nut won't strip the paint from the flat stock. I don't know if I should use rubber washers or the hardened flat washers under the bolt head. I suspect it won't make a difference structurally with (3) 7/16" bolts on each side.
I'm probably overthinking all this, but I really don't want to make a grievous mistake with my fuel tank.
Well, I've been driving it since October. The late model brake rotors did the job. I have enough clearance on my TRE boots, and the calipers just barely fit over the offset rotors.
I haven't touched the gas tank yet, but I finally put some paint down today. I sanded and painted the sides and top of the tub where the fuel cell will sit, painted the bottoms of the mounting tabs on the fuel cell, and painted the steel plate I'm using to sandwich the sheet metal at the mounting points.
I also bought some 40 mil PVC mat so the mounting tabs on the aluminum tank won't be in direct contact with the steel tub. It should significantly lessen wear while also helping to electrically isolate the metals. I'm really trying to prevent galvanic corrosion to the aluminum.
From top to bottom:
The fuel cell's tabs will rest on the PVC strips, which will sit on top of the fender wells, and the steel plates will go underneath to sandwich the factory sheet metal.
Regarding hardware:
I have six bolts, six nuts, twelve flat washers, and six rubber washers all in this size. Everything except the rubber washers is Grade 8.
Any suggestions regarding the best combination?
I'm thinking [Bolt>Rubber washer>Fuel Cell>PVC mat>Fender>Flat Stock>Washer>Nut] so the bolt head won't mar the aluminum cell and the nut won't strip the paint from the flat stock. I don't know if I should use rubber washers or the hardened flat washers under the bolt head. I suspect it won't make a difference structurally with (3) 7/16" bolts on each side.
I'm probably overthinking all this, but I really don't want to make a grievous mistake with my fuel tank.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 12-02-2016 at 03:07 PM.
