And Now For Something Completely Different - Clown's YJ Build
08-22-2013, 06:40 PM
#62
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Should be a good one. This is what came out before I could kill the motor. Now I'm waiting 15 minutes before I start it back up and probably have a chat with some firefighters.
08-25-2013, 09:09 AM
#64
No, I don't lick fish.
Ya know, that would make a pretty good smoke screen... Just figure out a way to hook up an injection system, poor seafoam in the reservoir, hit the switch and VOILA!
08-25-2013, 06:46 PM
#68
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Was very unimpressive. Not even worth a follow-up post, but I'm glad it's been maintained.
Did it again at Advance yesterday, and the battery died in less than 20 minutes.
-------------------------------
This morning at work, I removed the front track bar (What an improvement! Holy ****!), removed the front bumper end cap from the non-damaged side, and rewired the radio so the subs are connected as subs instead of rear speakers. System sounds sooo much cleaner now.
Tomorrow I'll be removing the rear track bar, buying a DieHard Platinum 34/78 battery from Sears, and installing the nearly-new starter that's on the MJ. Mine is original and showing its age, and I want to replace it before it becomes a problem.
I also spent a lot of time making a mod list with prices and prioritizing it. If removing the rear sway makes as big a difference as the front did, I might keep my Black Diamond shocks for a while instead of getting Bilsteins next month. I think my complaints have been against the wrong part.
-------------------------------
This morning at work, I removed the front track bar (What an improvement! Holy ****!), removed the front bumper end cap from the non-damaged side, and rewired the radio so the subs are connected as subs instead of rear speakers. System sounds sooo much cleaner now.
Tomorrow I'll be removing the rear track bar, buying a DieHard Platinum 34/78 battery from Sears, and installing the nearly-new starter that's on the MJ. Mine is original and showing its age, and I want to replace it before it becomes a problem.
I also spent a lot of time making a mod list with prices and prioritizing it. If removing the rear sway makes as big a difference as the front did, I might keep my Black Diamond shocks for a while instead of getting Bilsteins next month. I think my complaints have been against the wrong part.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 08-25-2013 at 07:13 PM.
08-25-2013, 11:30 PM
#71
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Was very unimpressive. Not even worth a follow-up post, but I'm glad it's been maintained.
Did it again at Advance yesterday, and the battery died in less than 20 minutes.
-------------------------------
This morning at work, I removed the front track bar (What an improvement! Holy ****!), removed the front bumper end cap from the non-damaged side, and rewired the radio so the subs are connected as subs instead of rear speakers. System sounds sooo much cleaner now.
Tomorrow I'll be removing the rear track bar, buying a DieHard Platinum 34/78 battery from Sears, and installing the nearly-new starter that's on the MJ. Mine is original and showing its age, and I want to replace it before it becomes a problem.
I also spent a lot of time making a mod list with prices and prioritizing it. If removing the rear sway makes as big a difference as the front did, I might keep my Black Diamond shocks for a while instead of getting Bilsteins next month. I think my complaints have been against the wrong part.
Did it again at Advance yesterday, and the battery died in less than 20 minutes.
-------------------------------
This morning at work, I removed the front track bar (What an improvement! Holy ****!), removed the front bumper end cap from the non-damaged side, and rewired the radio so the subs are connected as subs instead of rear speakers. System sounds sooo much cleaner now.
Tomorrow I'll be removing the rear track bar, buying a DieHard Platinum 34/78 battery from Sears, and installing the nearly-new starter that's on the MJ. Mine is original and showing its age, and I want to replace it before it becomes a problem.
I also spent a lot of time making a mod list with prices and prioritizing it. If removing the rear sway makes as big a difference as the front did, I might keep my Black Diamond shocks for a while instead of getting Bilsteins next month. I think my complaints have been against the wrong part.
08-26-2013, 07:04 AM
#72
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Leaf springs want to move up and down, and track bars want to move in an arc. I was getting 2-3" of articulation before binding due to the counteracting forces. Now my springs can actually compress and droop. I haven't taken it offroad yet, but now my tires stay on the road when I hit a bump. It was a very stiff, violent ride before, and when I hit a bump while braking, for example, my tires would lock because the YJ, including the leafs and tires, would bounce up and unload the springs.
08-26-2013, 07:35 AM
#73
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Leaf springs want to move up and down, and track bars want to move in an arc. I was getting 2-3" of articulation before binding due to the counteracting forces. Now my springs can actually compress and droop. I haven't taken it offroad yet, but now my tires stay on the road when I hit a bump. It was a very stiff, violent ride before, and when I hit a bump while braking, for example, my tires would lock because the YJ, including the leafs and tires, would bounce up and unload the springs.
08-26-2013, 03:21 PM
#74
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Got the new battery in today. So much ****ing acid all over everything... I need to clean the tray and replace my cables. Oh well, now I can listen to music with the Jeep off.
DieHard Platinum 34/78
Then I took a drive and pulled the two month old starter off the MJ and installed it on the YJ. Turns over nice and quick now, and I don't feel like I'm gonna end up stranded.
When I got home, I did the most important mod. Can't drive a Jeep without repping your club:
Even with the impact, I couldn't get the rear track bar off. The sleeve is spinning, and the bolt head is turning, but the threads aren't. Whatever. It's gonna meet a Sawzall later this week.
DieHard Platinum 34/78
Then I took a drive and pulled the two month old starter off the MJ and installed it on the YJ. Turns over nice and quick now, and I don't feel like I'm gonna end up stranded.
When I got home, I did the most important mod. Can't drive a Jeep without repping your club:
Even with the impact, I couldn't get the rear track bar off. The sleeve is spinning, and the bolt head is turning, but the threads aren't. Whatever. It's gonna meet a Sawzall later this week.