My little red wagon ON STEROIDS
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My little red wagon ON STEROIDS
Bought mine for 500.00 buck's it's got 250,00 miles on it run's like a freak top I cant complain at all . Iv had it for about 2 year's and have been working on it slowly I really want a full 6 inch lift this is what I have already 3.5 Super Lift thinking about going with 3 inch coil spacer's and 3 inch block's in the rear to give it 6.5 Should I go with 3 inch block's or shackles ?? ohh the rear lift is a aalf .
3.5 Super Lift with rear aalf
32X11.50 on 98 stock cherokee wheel's
1.25 SpiderTrax Wheel spacer's
40 series Flowmaster turned around backward's 3 inch stainless tip
2- 12 Alpine Type R's being pushed by 1000 watt Kenwood amp
Infinity speaker's in front door's and rear bass bar
6 inch aux light's and fog light's
custom painted front grill
Roof Rack ( That's in bad need of some paint ! )
3.5 Super Lift with rear aalf
32X11.50 on 98 stock cherokee wheel's
1.25 SpiderTrax Wheel spacer's
40 series Flowmaster turned around backward's 3 inch stainless tip
2- 12 Alpine Type R's being pushed by 1000 watt Kenwood amp
Infinity speaker's in front door's and rear bass bar
6 inch aux light's and fog light's
custom painted front grill
Roof Rack ( That's in bad need of some paint ! )
#3
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
why do you want to lift it? blocks and AAL are not real lifts. they are like band aids. they cover the issue but are not the solution. Friends dont let freinds install AAL and blocks!
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
i agree with xjoffroad. blcoks are just about the worst damn thing anyone can do. to use his metaphor, blocks are like a good band aid but when the time comes for that band aid to come off its gonna hurt like a *****. think if you broke a leaf spring doing 60 mph. i dont care if you put yourself in danger but when you put someone else in danger without there consent i have a problem.
dont lift it with blocks or shackles or coil spacers. save your money and do it write the first time.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_6x.html this will get you what you want.
dont lift it with blocks or shackles or coil spacers. save your money and do it write the first time.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_6x.html this will get you what you want.
#5
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah stock Lower control arm's but keeping my eyes peeled for adjustable control arm's with in my price range .. maybe a band aid for now I tow trailer's and use it as my daily driver so untill I can give it a little more tlc band aid will have to do for now it really doesnt do bad for what is has .. My buddy has a 6 inch rusty lift he is getting rid of so I hope to snag that by at least mid summer . It does what I need it to do for now
#7
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
Great little starter jeep! welcome to CF!
and DO NOT lift without upgrading your control arms, brake lines, shocks and possibly your steering!!! (also a SYE might be needed not just a TC drop. As for blocks, NEVER go above 1" and if you do make sure they are cast.... But blocks will be the death of your little AAL. Also if you do not upgrade your gears the extra force pushing your tires will cuase massive axle wrap, again being the death of your AAL... and finally if you use a shackle the angle will be horrible and give you a very unhappy ride...
If you tow and you put either blocks or shackle or a combination in you are going to kill your AAL....
Buy parts at a time and store them until you have everything that you need. Search CL and other online forums and postings.
here is a list of what you will NEED to do it right.
Leaf Springs
Coil Springs
Control Arms
Shocks
Brake Lines
some sort of steering upgrade
sway bar links
here is a list of things you will WANT to do it right:
long arms
SYE and Drive Shaft
Gears
Bigger tires
Steering Overhaul
sway bar disconnects
and DO NOT lift without upgrading your control arms, brake lines, shocks and possibly your steering!!! (also a SYE might be needed not just a TC drop. As for blocks, NEVER go above 1" and if you do make sure they are cast.... But blocks will be the death of your little AAL. Also if you do not upgrade your gears the extra force pushing your tires will cuase massive axle wrap, again being the death of your AAL... and finally if you use a shackle the angle will be horrible and give you a very unhappy ride...
If you tow and you put either blocks or shackle or a combination in you are going to kill your AAL....
Buy parts at a time and store them until you have everything that you need. Search CL and other online forums and postings.
here is a list of what you will NEED to do it right.
Leaf Springs
Coil Springs
Control Arms
Shocks
Brake Lines
some sort of steering upgrade
sway bar links
here is a list of things you will WANT to do it right:
long arms
SYE and Drive Shaft
Gears
Bigger tires
Steering Overhaul
sway bar disconnects
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#8
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
sounds great yeah now just have to save up alittle bit .. yeah first time joining a forum its cool screw that face book crap I needed to go where the xj's where lol . I made a 1.5 inch Tc drop down out of some box tubing it works great I had really bad drive line vibration after I put the lift on . 250,00 miles on it I cant go but so drastic I have a ford c6 trans in my shed Im thinking bout building and getting a Ford 5.0 and stuffing it in there after the 4.0 is gone then its time to really play.
#9
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
do you think that the 5.0 will fit in the engine bay? its not a tiny motor..
Although if you can make it work please do a write up!!!
Although if you can make it work please do a write up!!!
#11
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i agree with xjoffroad. blcoks are just about the worst damn thing anyone can do. to use his metaphor, blocks are like a good band aid but when the time comes for that band aid to come off its gonna hurt like a *****. think if you broke a leaf spring doing 60 mph. i dont care if you put yourself in danger but when you put someone else in danger without there consent i have a problem.
dont lift it with blocks or shackles or coil spacers. save your money and do it write the first time.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_6x.html this will get you what you want.
dont lift it with blocks or shackles or coil spacers. save your money and do it write the first time.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_6x.html this will get you what you want.
#12
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah the 5.0 c6 swap isnt going to be easy I still have plenty of time to figure it out I will deff keep yall posted I figure so far im gonna have to cut the wheel wells out and fab somthing diff then from there as long as I have a Torch , Grinder , Welder , and elbow grease anything can be done .
I just got a head liner out of a 96 cherokee with the bass bar in the rear I have rear hatch speaker's already would yall wire the bass bar with the rear speaker's or run new wire's to the head unit and just keep them seperate????
I just got a head liner out of a 96 cherokee with the bass bar in the rear I have rear hatch speaker's already would yall wire the bass bar with the rear speaker's or run new wire's to the head unit and just keep them seperate????
#13
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: LEAKY NOISY 4.0
Yeah the 5.0 c6 swap isnt going to be easy I still have plenty of time to figure it out I will deff keep yall posted I figure so far im gonna have to cut the wheel wells out and fab somthing diff then from there as long as I have a Torch , Grinder , Welder , and elbow grease anything can be done .
I just got a head liner out of a 96 cherokee with the bass bar in the rear I have rear hatch speaker's already would yall wire the bass bar with the rear speaker's or run new wire's to the head unit and just keep them seperate????
I just got a head liner out of a 96 cherokee with the bass bar in the rear I have rear hatch speaker's already would yall wire the bass bar with the rear speaker's or run new wire's to the head unit and just keep them seperate????
It depends on what ohm your speakers are. I'm assuming you're running your front / rear speakers off the radio power and your amp is only running your woofers. if that is the case you're gonna have to "series" all four of your rear speakers otherwise you will burn the radio outputs. Start by checking the ohms on your rear hatch speakers and bass bar speakers, they will have a 4 or 8 on them with an upside down horseshoe ( the ohm symbol) or just dont use your hatch speakers at all, they kinda suck ( too low blocked by the seats) compared to the bass bar imho. just my .02
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