My first XJ 99 steel blue
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, New York
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I remember buying my cherokee and needing to run new wires to the front doors, that sucked lmao. I relocated the front door speakers to under my driver and passenger seat for when I go doorless.
I run 15x8, 3.75 back spacing on 35x12.5" mtrs.
Best pic I have currently and it's raining out. They stick out 3-4" with cut fenders.
I run 15x8, 3.75 back spacing on 35x12.5" mtrs.
Best pic I have currently and it's raining out. They stick out 3-4" with cut fenders.
#17
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Yeah they stick out quite a bit... I chose a 4" backspace 15x8 and 31x10.5's since I don't wanna re gear and hafta cut a lot I might get bushwhackers just hate cutting the body up right now lol it's so clean
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I run 31x10.5x15 bfg a/ts on some black rock 909 aluminum rims with 4" backspacing. Loving both so far. I also have a 3 inch lift on my jeep but mine is a rough country lift. Nice jeep I was about to buy one that color, but when the guy told me he didn't know how many miles were on a junkyard engine he put in it decided to steer clear of that jeep... Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing where this goes.
#21
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welllll parts are showing up and i got this cool shot of the jeep at night
deegan38 by mickey thompson 31" x 10.5 tires
iron rock offroad order that fedex ruined.... missing one adjustable lower control arm that flew outta the box so install is delayed yet again THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE HAS BEEN GREAT THROUGH ALL THIS!! GETTING A REPLACEMENT OUT ASAP
deegan38 by mickey thompson 31" x 10.5 tires
iron rock offroad order that fedex ruined.... missing one adjustable lower control arm that flew outta the box so install is delayed yet again THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE HAS BEEN GREAT THROUGH ALL THIS!! GETTING A REPLACEMENT OUT ASAP
#22
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Thread Starter
Well My friend Larry and I started working on the lift today it was buckets of fun both front leaf spring mounting bolts were super frozen... One sheared the torch came out... And thankfully Larry is surgical with it and we fixed the issues... Then all four rear upper shock mounts sheared so the leafs are in shocks are off but I need to jack with the mounting bolt mod :-/ and pick up two new leaf spring bolts.. DOES ANYONE KNOW THE LENGTH AND THREAD PITCH ON THE FRONT LEAF SPRING BOLTS?? That will be helpful... I'm sure the front is gonna be super fun to do as well... Also should I ditch the rear sway at At this time or do most guys run them. I do lots of regular on road driving and it's a 3" lift opinions please I see no need for it out back but I bought jks links for the front... My ares fab bumper for the back also shipped today and I'm planning on buying some flares and am torn between the bushwhackers or Napier. Napier is also running 10% off right now to via FB
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Oak Lawn, Illinois
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
99% don't run the rear sway bar after the lift, a lot take it off even before the lift. The front one a lot leave on and get extended links or quick disconnects, then some take that off completely too. I run no sway bars at all. I don't see a huge difference without the front besides not cornering as fast, but I'm not a race car so that doesn't matter.
#24
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Location: Greenville, SC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I had both after my 3 inch lift then I went offroad and when flexing the rear sway bar popped out of its mount. So I got home and ditched it can't tell a difference. I say take it off now and don't look back.
#25
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: St. Louis
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter I6 PowerTech
Like others have already stated, totally ditch the rear sway bar. It's really not needed at all. Also Napier makes some good stuff, I have their hood vents, and their flares seem nice.
#26
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thanks for the reply's! its awesome not talking to yourself lol
OK ILL BE DITCHING THE REAR SWAY!!
think im gonna pull the trigger on some napier v2 flares today as well... they look good after all the vids i watched
read up on the zone lift some more and it seems like people say the ride sucks... i bought billsteins for it to but am wondering if i'm not going to be happy at 3" heck i already have the extended brake lines to all i'm missing is the sye and drive shaft maybe i should go 4" would shackles and some coil spacers do the trick and not be
" ghetto"
OK ILL BE DITCHING THE REAR SWAY!!
think im gonna pull the trigger on some napier v2 flares today as well... they look good after all the vids i watched
read up on the zone lift some more and it seems like people say the ride sucks... i bought billsteins for it to but am wondering if i'm not going to be happy at 3" heck i already have the extended brake lines to all i'm missing is the sye and drive shaft maybe i should go 4" would shackles and some coil spacers do the trick and not be
" ghetto"
#27
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter I6 PowerTech
Getting some good lift shackles, like JKS or Rubicon Express, could help out the ride quality. Also there's nothing wrong with throwing a coil spacer up front for added lift. Those Bilsteins should help out the ride quality quite a bit too.
#28
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I believe the front (same as shackle box) leaf spring bolts are m14-2.0 pitch. I can't remember the length though so search here. Also the metal piece that connects the sway bars to the leaf spring plates, save those. They're free bar pin eliminators.
#29
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Sweet thanks! Didn't get anything done this weekend since I'm leaving for Sema tomorrow for the week. I'll get back on it next weekend and finish up. Ares fab rear bumper is at the powder coater to so that will be ready when I return
#30
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Used some jet black monstaliner brand chassis and undercoat protector on the wholeeeeeee truck today.... Yeah basically painted everything twice with a 2" brush. What a bitc$ but is should preserve my rust free undercarriage... Also wire wheeled the whole rear end and painted all that to along with the driveshaft since I had extra.... Should look good lifted without rust on the pumpkin assy and drive shaft also got the broken bolts replaced installed the front shocks springs and control arms... Gonna need to install the longer brake lines since the rear looks stretcheddddd when drooped in the lift... Just need to fix upper shock bolts and install them and do the trac bar and transfer case drop till I spend the $ on a sye and ds. Maybe a hack and tap??? Opinions on this please for the future. Also debating on rear disc brakes since I'm breaking the line and the drums look rough... What's the best way to go about that iron rock has a kit for like 500$ doesn't seem to bad and they look like all new parts not junk yard items.....