The jerkstick '99 4.0/AX-15
#181
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Aha, Friday! I took a day off from work.
It was a quick job because I already removed the rear shocks out of the way. Within 20 minutes, the axle were out
Brought the dana 44 out and slid it under the jeep. It was a quick job bolting it up on the leaf packs.
Had the FIL come over and help me with the rear brakes.
It was pretty straightforward swap.
While I had the rear driveshaft out, I went ahead and slapped a handful of grease on the slip yoke and wiped some on the internal splines of the driveshaft and pushed it back on the slip yoke before bolting it up on the rear axle yoke.
It was a quick job because I already removed the rear shocks out of the way. Within 20 minutes, the axle were out
Brought the dana 44 out and slid it under the jeep. It was a quick job bolting it up on the leaf packs.
Had the FIL come over and help me with the rear brakes.
It was pretty straightforward swap.
While I had the rear driveshaft out, I went ahead and slapped a handful of grease on the slip yoke and wiped some on the internal splines of the driveshaft and pushed it back on the slip yoke before bolting it up on the rear axle yoke.
#182
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
And here we are, today...
I woke up really early and got a head start on removing the old axle and the suspension components... (Lower arms, coils, shocks, and the track bar).
Half hour later, the axle was out.
I was very extremely lucky and surprised that ALL of the bolts didn't break or sheared off... Yay me.
Installed the IRO double shear mount.
Installed the grease zeros on the lower arms..
And installed them on the jeep
Everything went smoothly.
Overall. I like how it sits and look now... 2" in the rear and 2.5-2.75 in the front. Especially with the 31's on it.
I woke up really early and got a head start on removing the old axle and the suspension components... (Lower arms, coils, shocks, and the track bar).
Half hour later, the axle was out.
I was very extremely lucky and surprised that ALL of the bolts didn't break or sheared off... Yay me.
Installed the IRO double shear mount.
Installed the grease zeros on the lower arms..
And installed them on the jeep
Everything went smoothly.
Overall. I like how it sits and look now... 2" in the rear and 2.5-2.75 in the front. Especially with the 31's on it.
#183
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Just some pictures to show the reason why I had to get rid of the 8.25... (The shafts are for sale by the way)
Took the cover off, and inspected the teeth....
U can see how it was really worn down.
Took the yoke off, it was so easy, must have been about 25 lbs torque to break nut off.
Oh apparently I didn't take a picture of the pinion bearings. I ll take a picture of it tomorrow.
The gear oil was new (October 2014) and I put in 140 weight oil to try and help quiet down the noise for temporary. So when I drained the axle, I saw there's so many little metal pieces floating... The oil was so silvery/black.
Oh also here's a picture of rear driveshafts that I thought I would share.
On the left, it came off a 2000 xj with aw4, np242 and chrysler 8.25
On the right is my driveshaft. There's an inch difference. Just interesting to notice that.
I drove approximately 25 miles on new axles, there isn't any harsh vibes that I could feel... I guess I don't need to put in t case drops yet.
I probably would either find a 242 or put on the np231/SYE on this jeep. (I'm building s doubler for my crawler and most likely be transferring the t case over to this)
Took the cover off, and inspected the teeth....
U can see how it was really worn down.
Took the yoke off, it was so easy, must have been about 25 lbs torque to break nut off.
Oh apparently I didn't take a picture of the pinion bearings. I ll take a picture of it tomorrow.
The gear oil was new (October 2014) and I put in 140 weight oil to try and help quiet down the noise for temporary. So when I drained the axle, I saw there's so many little metal pieces floating... The oil was so silvery/black.
Oh also here's a picture of rear driveshafts that I thought I would share.
On the left, it came off a 2000 xj with aw4, np242 and chrysler 8.25
On the right is my driveshaft. There's an inch difference. Just interesting to notice that.
I drove approximately 25 miles on new axles, there isn't any harsh vibes that I could feel... I guess I don't need to put in t case drops yet.
I probably would either find a 242 or put on the np231/SYE on this jeep. (I'm building s doubler for my crawler and most likely be transferring the t case over to this)
#187
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
So for $60 I got a bunch of parts from a friend...
A front skid plate
A rugged ridge steering system
RC sway bar discos
Then last night I went ahead and painted the skid
The steering system needed two new tie rod ends... Apparently I can only get the replacements from Rugged Ridge only.... For FIFTY BUCKS EACH!!
Anyone ever got their replacements from somewhere else? The threads on the tie rod ends is 22mm x 1.5 pitch. I'm gonna try and find tie rod ends from parts stores that have the same thread and ball stud taper.
A front skid plate
A rugged ridge steering system
RC sway bar discos
Then last night I went ahead and painted the skid
The steering system needed two new tie rod ends... Apparently I can only get the replacements from Rugged Ridge only.... For FIFTY BUCKS EACH!!
Anyone ever got their replacements from somewhere else? The threads on the tie rod ends is 22mm x 1.5 pitch. I'm gonna try and find tie rod ends from parts stores that have the same thread and ball stud taper.
#188
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Year: 1999
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The RC discos... Anyone got experience with them? They are still in excellent condition... A little too long for my needs but I'm gonna shorten it (it's for 3.5 to 6.5" lifts). Only things that were missing was the piece that get bolted to the sway bar holes...
Does RC stock the parts or would I be better off fabbing up something in its place? Lol.
Does RC stock the parts or would I be better off fabbing up something in its place? Lol.
#190
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Year: 1999
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no, in your picture, the link get bolted to the sway bar. There's a piece that goes to the hole and the bolt fastens the piece to the bar and then the link get slid in the piece. I provided a picture from RC website that show the piece I'm talking about.
#191
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok i see what your talking about now...
It seems yours were made for a wj or a jk....
You can always call them and ask if they sell them separately....I'm pretty sure they would
It seems yours were made for a wj or a jk....
You can always call them and ask if they sell them separately....I'm pretty sure they would
#192
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Year: 1999
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Yeah I'm still waiting for my friend to try find them in his garage. If he can't find them I ll give RC a call but most likely I might end up making my own parts.
#193
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well there's no need to get your panties in a bunch...
If you look at your posts none describes or explains that your rc discos are for an xj....
Anyone here can look at them and say that it's not for an xj....
If you look at your posts none describes or explains that your rc discos are for an xj....
Anyone here can look at them and say that it's not for an xj....
#194
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 H.O.
They are for an XJ, picked mine up on Craigslist, were way too long. So I cut and welded the the rod by the bushing. Also mine didn't have the sway bar attachment, so I used some thick, like 1/4, angle iron, bolted and welded. Probably overkill but no problems the past year.
#195
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Year: 1999
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They are for an XJ, picked mine up on Craigslist, were way too long. So I cut and welded the the rod by the bushing. Also mine didn't have the sway bar attachment, so I used some thick, like 1/4, angle iron, bolted and welded. Probably overkill but no problems the past year.