"It's still a cherokee" build.
#17
No. I was saying my approach angle in the front will be the same as if I were running 42's. I am staying 36's with stock axles.
The last thing I want is some huge axle hanging down. Trying to keep this as light as possible.
The last thing I want is some huge axle hanging down. Trying to keep this as light as possible.
#18
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burlington, NC
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Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
I didn't want some heavy 1-ton unsprung weight axles under my rig
#19
#20
Alright where can I put this radiator? I originally thought th back of the jeep in the cargo area. But then I thought there has got to be a more clever spot out of the way. I can even make a guard for it.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
#23
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Andover, VT
Posts: 2,971
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Plus, I think your suspension would perform better offroad with long arms at like 3" of lift. And maybe setting the rear up for more droop also. Run some shock hoops with ridiculous amounts of travel. Maybe look into clocking your tcase and some more high clearance things. If you're relocating your ac then maybe you could look into relocating your alternator higher in the engine bay.
#25
Keep the cherokee look, meh. Chop the rear, put the radiator and gas tank in the bed, tub the rear fenders, and shorten the front. Talk about approach angle!
Plus, I think your suspension would perform better offroad with long arms at like 3" of lift. And maybe setting the rear up for more droop also. Run some shock hoops with ridiculous amounts of travel. Maybe look into clocking your tcase and some more high clearance things. If you're relocating your ac then maybe you could look into relocating your alternator higher in the engine bay.
Plus, I think your suspension would perform better offroad with long arms at like 3" of lift. And maybe setting the rear up for more droop also. Run some shock hoops with ridiculous amounts of travel. Maybe look into clocking your tcase and some more high clearance things. If you're relocating your ac then maybe you could look into relocating your alternator higher in the engine bay.
Right now the rear drops more than the front by two inches. And that's with aftermarket control arms and the shock mounts on the axles cut. So i need to work on the front end. If I could hide the long arms so they would not cause any loss of clearance I would consider them
I know 4 linking the rear and chopping the back would be the best. But i have to be ready to roll in 30 days. Rush off road is having an event. And I am planning to go. Besides the leafs are not holding me back much. I mean I get axle wrap, but it's not stopping me from making any obstacles.
I have to come up with a wrangler alternator mount then I can scrap my low mount, ac, and fan.
#26
Radiator on the roof is a negative. I retro fitted it and it would stick up as high as lowranges roof line. Way too tall for me. 8)
The roof has a nice arch to it. So it just would not work.
Looks like it's in the back.
The roof has a nice arch to it. So it just would not work.
Looks like it's in the back.
#28
#29
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Andover, VT
Posts: 2,971
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
#30
Tnt long arms. I'm installing one now. The control arm mounts sit above the bottom of the frame rail, and the arms are bent to not lose clearance behind the wheels
Attachment 256627
Attachment 256627
I don't even want to know how much it is.