Indeepwithajeep's '98 progress thread
#31
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I keep putting off doing my frame stiffeners. I'm thinking at the very least I should strip the undercoating and keep it coated with weldable primer. I think it should go quickly once all the prep is finished.
#33
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I used old style XJ flares and trimmed them. The good thing about using those is you can do away with the factory metal brackets, and bolt the plastic right up to the body. You'll need sixteen 1/4" bolts @ 1". I also grabbed 32 washers for each side.
I got some rears too, but I didn't get the early style rear bumper caps. Looked out of place without them IMO.
I'm planning keeping some sort of flares so I don't get bothered by the law and spit too many rocks out at people driving up to the mountain.
#34
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
are you using flux core or solid wire for your frame stiffeners? I was just given this baby for free.
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-68885.html
I really want frame stiffeners to make this thing solid before I go any bigger with my lift.
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-68885.html
I really want frame stiffeners to make this thing solid before I go any bigger with my lift.
#36
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
are you using flux core or solid wire for your frame stiffeners? I was just given this baby for free.
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-68885.html
I really want frame stiffeners to make this thing solid before I go any bigger with my lift.
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-68885.html
I really want frame stiffeners to make this thing solid before I go any bigger with my lift.
That should be a great machine to get you going. I couldn't imagine really needing that much more if it's just being used for Jeep stuff.
#37
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Went out to try a new spot and try out the tires today. No complaints with either. Although I should have put that extra bump stop up front before I went.
Seemed to have found my limiting point.
Seemed to have found my limiting point.
#42
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So far soo good. However I can only compare them to a 27" toyo AT and a 30" Maxxis Bighorn MT's. They're not too noisy, but noticeably more noisy than the Bighorns. I'm not too sure if the size has to do with it. They seemed to be great off-road however I never got the point where I felt stuck that day. We've had a record dry season here so it's mostly dry right now.
#43
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So I decided I'll stick with short arms for a little while longer and invest in some adjustable uppers. I think my passenger side doesn't droop as far due to the steering. I'm already able to unseat my coils anyways, I'd think I'm outside useable droop. So I'm planning to start work for future plans.
I threw another hockey puck up front to lengthen my bump stops for the bigger tires. After I figured out some measurements with my shock lenghts, I think I might throw on some BPE's. I'm already over bump stopped for the strut compression.
I threw another hockey puck up front to lengthen my bump stops for the bigger tires. After I figured out some measurements with my shock lenghts, I think I might throw on some BPE's. I'm already over bump stopped for the strut compression.
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 08-27-2015 at 02:35 PM.
#45
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've kind of played with doing a tiny stretch (1") with using the main leaf from a dakota. That way I could keep my OE tank. Run that with a shackle relocation bracket flipped around since they're 3" longer. Extending the arches a little (cut some quarters from a JY and make it look stock). Although that would be down the road quite a bit.
I think the longer leafs and shackles would help a ton with getting more articulation out of the rear.
I think the longer leafs and shackles would help a ton with getting more articulation out of the rear.