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Old 11-19-2009, 09:42 PM   #31
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that thing must ride like a tank! keep the rubber side down!

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Old 11-24-2009, 11:07 PM   #32
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Question What size tires!?

I plan on moving up to bigger axles at some point but not anytime soon, unless I mess the current one (or both axles) up, I am just wondering, should I go with 35s, or 37s????? WHAT CAN THE AXLES HOLD UP TO??? As previously stated, It is much more of an everyday driver than a wheeler, but I am still a weekend warrior, and plan on wheelin whenever I get a chance. I think with the wheelin I do the axles will hold up but am not sure. Any suggestions or experience would be great. THanks. Also what brand tire should I go with too.... haha. thanks guys. oh and maybe suggestions on wheels. I am not sure what to get yet... what do you guys think might look good?? anyway. hope to get alot of suggestions and would like to know what these axles would hold up to. I previously had 33x12.5 discovery stt's and loved em on my old 89 ford bronco but I like to try out new things. Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by xjrev10 View Post
that thing must ride like a tank! keep the rubber side down!
lol it actually rides pretty nice for the size, but yup it is like a tank. hahaha. thanks man and I will do my best.
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Old 11-25-2009, 12:17 AM   #34
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Lightbulb WOW! MY LIFT HEIGHT IS PRETTY BIG. Almost exactly 8.3 inches of lift.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

Since I did not put the lift on myself, I did not know EXACTLY how big my lift is, so I have done my best to find out. And with my calculations it has just about exactly 8.3 inches of total lift. Read lower to find out how i figure that number.

According to this web site, and a couple others, 64" is the stock height of a cherokee from the top of the vehicle, to the ground. My vehicle sits at exactly 75" from the top of the vehicle to the ground. This means I am 11" higher than a stock xj. Next question is how much of this is caused by the suspension lift, and how much of this is caused by bigger tires, the stock height from the bottom of the differential to the ground is 7.3 inches, and from the bottom of my differential to the ground is surprisingly exactly 10 inches, this means I gain 2.7 inches from my tires, and 11-2.7 inches is 8.3 inches, this is the height of my lift. I thought it was pretty freaking awesome. hahaha. Anyway, if you read this, thanks for reading!!! peace....
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Old 11-25-2009, 02:22 AM   #35
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Could Someone trade me some used bigger rims and tires for my almost new wheels and tires or give me a really good deal on some???? lol. Just thought I might ask... hahahaha.

Here are the tires and rims... there great but a little too small.


The 32s dont look to bad really. I just changed out the stock rims on my 99 2 door for 8 inch ones and it made a big difference and I only have 31s. Very nice looking Jeep by the way.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:03 PM   #36
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Question I LIVE IN

Gallup NM. Someone in my area should hit me up... well go out... just sayin...
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where are you from erik
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:27 PM   #37
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holy frick i corrected that!!!! Wtfrick?? Please read the post before talking out your a$$
well that was uncalled for!!!!
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:48 PM   #38
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well that was uncalled for!!!!
The language yes, but the response was validly placed.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:20 PM   #39
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The language yes, but the response was validly placed.
No, it wasn't valid. WAD357 was right. If you look closely in the pics you can see that it still has both the stock upper AND lower control arms. There are drop brackets for the lowers, which helps.



The front coils and rear leaves may be the RE 5.5", but it's not a long arm kit. RE's long arm kit is a radius arm design, so there is one main arm running from the frame rails to the LCA mounts, with the UCA splitting off in a "Y" shape from the main arm up to the UCA mount... looks kinda like this ---< if that makes sense.

Erik, Erik, Erik... okay dude don't get offended by any of this because I mean no offense by it. This is constructive feedback, got it? Good.

To answer a few of your questions... yes I think it's WAY too much lift for 32's. Pull the coil spacers and blocks. Your jeep will thank you for it. Look at your steering angles.



You're still running the stock tie rod and drag link in the stock locations and the amount of stress it's putting on your steering box will lead to either the box ripping off the frame rail eventually, or the steering gear box itself will fail. A 5.5" lift is plenty to run 35" tires, and you're at 7.5" on just 32's. I really recommend you rethink that if you want to treat your jeep nice. You will also get longer life out of your front DS u-joints with the less stressful angle that lowering it 2" will give you, as well as a better ride and better off road stability. Think - COG - which means center of gravity. The higher you lift something, the higher center of gravity you create, making it more tippy and less stable. Come back down to earth buddy.

Your axles are the D30 front and D35 rear. If you want to run anything larger than 33's, get rid of the D35 - repeat - do not waste your money on that axle for high-end aftermarket parts. Find a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 from a '97 or newer XJ and swap that in, or an XJ D44.

Lastly, keep in mind that modifying your XJ creates a veritable DOMINO affect. Altering one part of the vehicle affects something else, which usually also needs to then be modified. Example - you want big tires. Fine, throw some 35's on there with all the extra contact patch on the pavement, extra rolling resistance, etc. They're much heavier than your current 32's and will create added stress on balljoints, steering components, brakes, axle shafts... see what I mean. One little mod (bigger tires) affects a whole slew of other areas and creates the potential for breakage.

Here's what I'd do - LOWER IT. Trust me, it will still be every bit as capable, but it will be MUCH SAFER. Pull the pucks and blocks and come back down to original spring height of 5.5". Then I'd throw some 33x12.50's on there and go out and wheel for awhile. Stay out of the throttle too much, cause if you bind up a tire in the rocks and punch it you'll lose a shaft or u-joint. Get to know your rig and your driving abilities. Practice is invaluable. The more you wheel it, the more all of this will make sense. I've seen very skilled drivers in near-stock XJ's walk up and down obstacles that inexperienced guys in highly built XJ's couldn't conquer. You wanna be the embarrassed one? Learn to drive FIRST, then mod your jeep accordingly. Then, if you really feel the need to go to 35's or bigger, I would save money for all the right parts and build some axles for them.

Take all this how you want, I'm just a guy that's owned XJ's for 12 yrs and wheeled all over Moab.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:13 AM   #40
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Talking whooo finally! ahaha

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Originally Posted by Brad M. View Post
No, it wasn't valid. WAD357 was right. If you look closely in the pics you can see that it still has both the stock upper AND lower control arms. There are drop brackets for the lowers, which helps.



The front coils and rear leaves may be the RE 5.5", but it's not a long arm kit. RE's long arm kit is a radius arm design, so there is one main arm running from the frame rails to the LCA mounts, with the UCA splitting off in a "Y" shape from the main arm up to the UCA mount... looks kinda like this ---< if that makes sense.

Erik, Erik, Erik... okay dude don't get offended by any of this because I mean no offense by it. This is constructive feedback, got it? Good.

To answer a few of your questions... yes I think it's WAY too much lift for 32's. Pull the coil spacers and blocks. Your jeep will thank you for it. Look at your steering angles.



You're still running the stock tie rod and drag link in the stock locations and the amount of stress it's putting on your steering box will lead to either the box ripping off the frame rail eventually, or the steering gear box itself will fail. A 5.5" lift is plenty to run 35" tires, and you're at 7.5" on just 32's. I really recommend you rethink that if you want to treat your jeep nice. You will also get longer life out of your front DS u-joints with the less stressful angle that lowering it 2" will give you, as well as a better ride and better off road stability. Think - COG - which means center of gravity. The higher you lift something, the higher center of gravity you create, making it more tippy and less stable. Come back down to earth buddy.

Your axles are the D30 front and D35 rear. If you want to run anything larger than 33's, get rid of the D35 - repeat - do not waste your money on that axle for high-end aftermarket parts. Find a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 from a '97 or newer XJ and swap that in, or an XJ D44.

Lastly, keep in mind that modifying your XJ creates a veritable DOMINO affect. Altering one part of the vehicle affects something else, which usually also needs to then be modified. Example - you want big tires. Fine, throw some 35's on there with all the extra contact patch on the pavement, extra rolling resistance, etc. They're much heavier than your current 32's and will create added stress on balljoints, steering components, brakes, axle shafts... see what I mean. One little mod (bigger tires) affects a whole slew of other areas and creates the potential for breakage.

Here's what I'd do - LOWER IT. Trust me, it will still be every bit as capable, but it will be MUCH SAFER. Pull the pucks and blocks and come back down to original spring height of 5.5". Then I'd throw some 33x12.50's on there and go out and wheel for awhile. Stay out of the throttle too much, cause if you bind up a tire in the rocks and punch it you'll lose a shaft or u-joint. Get to know your rig and your driving abilities. Practice is invaluable. The more you wheel it, the more all of this will make sense. I've seen very skilled drivers in near-stock XJ's walk up and down obstacles that inexperienced guys in highly built XJ's couldn't conquer. You wanna be the embarrassed one? Learn to drive FIRST, then mod your jeep accordingly. Then, if you really feel the need to go to 35's or bigger, I would save money for all the right parts and build some axles for them.

Take all this how you want, I'm just a guy that's owned XJ's for 12 yrs and wheeled all over Moab.
finally someone who knows what your talking about! yah i know bout the axles and thanks for all the info...I was just going to save up for the whole d44 front and rear assembly but first comes some 35x12.5 or a little wider... I dont off road enough right now for it to matter tooo much except for all the steering stuff which if your correct about I will swap the tie rod and drag link myself first... I can do the work just need someone to tell me things like you did... I had a SICK bronco before this that I put everything on and knew ALL about running 33x12.5 on a 3 inch suspension lift that i did the work on... liked it but I sold it to buy this... wish I still had the tires thought thats for sure. What you said is pretty much exactly what I was looking for someone too tell me and talk about.... Are you positive about the tie road and drag link though?? From what the guy told me I thought it was the whole RE 5.5 kit... but maybe your correct. the guy I bought it from didnt know crap and I know it is not long arms. I said that was an accident. that is the only thing I dont agree with you on. because they said it like six times and I corrected it the first time... so yah. everything was definitly called for. Thats why I finally got pissed off. But sorry bout the language. I was just tired of NO one giving advice like you FINALLY did and everyone just saying that. get back with me though!! Tell me if your sure... and if you see anything else you recommend me doing first... because I just got me a better paying job and you guys will see this thing slowly but surely transforming... heheee.... Oh and are you saying I absolutely shouldn't keep the spacers?? I REALLY like it bein so huge... lol And would like to keep them... I guess I could take them off but I REALLY dont want to. Thanks man...
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:17 AM   #41
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Default Thanks dude

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The language yes, but the response was validly placed.
Thanks man. lol. The language.... possibly... but once I have heard it like six times... I understand... haha. SORRY FOR THE LANGUAGE GUYS AND PLEASE dont tell me about them not being long arms again. I KNOW they are not long arms. THANKS!!!
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:13 AM   #42
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Ordering new Drag link and chromoly tie rod on the seventh. I will update once its all put on. Or when I get it.

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Old 02-27-2010, 07:41 AM   #43
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I agree with Brad M on everything but Have a few things to add. Your running the stock control arms they should be replaced ASAP. I own a Jeep fab shop In Vermont and have seen more than one guy fold the stock control arms. Also you say your saving for better Axles that is wise your Jeep has 2 of the worst that Jeep ever put under an XJ the rear is a D35 with C clips the front is a D30 vacuum disconnect. even a non disconnect would be better. I would like to see a picture of the rear drive shaft then we can tell you if you have a SYE. Brads advice of lowering it is going to make it much better to drive. And I always think a good drive can out wheel a built rig even with a stock ride

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Old 03-01-2010, 08:23 PM   #44
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I agree with Brad M on everything but Have a few things to add. Your running the stock control arms they should be replaced ASAP. I own a Jeep fab shop In Vermont and have seen more than one guy fold the stock control arms. Also you say your saving for better Axles that is wise your Jeep has 2 of the worst that Jeep ever put under an XJ the rear is a D35 with C clips the front is a D30 vacuum disconnect. even a non disconnect would be better. I would like to see a picture of the rear drive shaft then we can tell you if you have a SYE. Brads advice of lowering it is going to make it much better to drive. And I always think a good drive can out wheel a built rig even with a stock ride

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Agree with you man. I will be getting long arms asap. I wont be offroading until then. I want to get my jeep together before the Easter Safari in moab since I am only a few hours away. And I dont have much time. haha I dont mean lockers and axles and all but at least long arms, the couple things on the suspension, and the driveshafts. oh... and tires and wheels. So I know I can get the full long arm upgrade kit from Rough Country with everything for the long arms for about 600 bucks, do you know of anywhere I could get it for cheaper? or no. Thanks hehe Also, I need to do my driveshafts and I have been looking around for them, Do you recommend a certain brand? or anything?? do you know what lengths I would need? I KNOW im running 8.3-8.5 inches of lift... I need the cheapest but best for the money. Just let me know if you have any ideas... Prefferably with SYE on em... I have seen some that come with it on em. Anyways. Thanks.

On another note, I FOUND SOME TIRES AND WHEELS FOR 500 bucks for all FOUR!!! 15 inch black steel bead locks with MICKEY THOMPSON BAJA BELTED 35/14.5/15 inch tires with 70% tread... THAT IS AN AWESOME PRICE... So for 500 bucks I am pretty sure I am picking em up this week or the beggining of next week... I AM STOKED!!

Also, I cant take pictures of it but I have done several things to it recently. The interior needed a couple things fixed such as release things on the seats, and I put a stereo in and speakers. (i hate not having music haha) That is where my time and money has been going. It needed a tune up, and an alignment DESPERATLY so I got all that done and now need to start on all this other stuff. I will be picking up those tires and wheels ASAP though and will take pictures after. Thanks guys for the input.

PLEASE READ MY QUESTIONS AND LET ME KNOW ANYTHING THAT COULD HELP ME OUT! THANKS
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:42 AM   #45
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The tires sound like a good deal. As for the long arm I am not a huge fan of RC there system uses a radius arm where the upper arms are attached to the lower arm. I know your on a budget but my advice would wait and go with a true 4 link like the BDS kit. as for the alignment wait until you have your long arms in then you will not be doing it twice. the best SYE are complete with a new shaft not a hack and tap they run about $200 most have a fixed yoke instead of a flange you can use a stock front XJ drive shaft in the rear.

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