chipmaker

That's a hard one,lol. I think it would look better with lined flares, but I don't know how well it will hold up on a flexible surface. My old xj was a blue and gold 95 country with the crappy lower body molding. I stripped off the molding and painted all the gold with flat black bumper paint, looked good IMO. I'll see if I can find a pic of it to show you.

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I trimmed the lip out of my flares and cut out a small amount of sheet metal and it helped a ton. My front tucks good when flexed out, but I'm running around 4.5" backspacing.

SatiricalHen

Do you still have the liners? And what exactly did you cut? Front and rear?

chipmaker

Nah I pulled the front liners and stuck some pool noodles in the gap at the back to keep crud out of the door jambs. I cut the entire bottom lip off of the front flares. Looking from the outside it still looks factory, when you look under it you can see that only the vertical wall of the flare is there. On the metal I just cut out the first step about 1/4" and also the back corners. I'll try to get you some pics in a bit.

I didn't trim anything on the back, my shackle angle keeps my rear tires from getting into the fenders.

SatiricalHen

Alright, I'm planning on switching from the true trac lsd to a selectable locker and I'm planning on completely redoing the suspension so if anyone wants a Dana 30 true trac with very low miles or a 3" series 2 rough country lift kit without the sway bar drops, but with a new rear brake line. Make me an offer on it.

SatiricalHen

Oh the true trac is a 3.73 and up carrier.

SatiricalHen

Ordered the tjm locker

WyoCherokee

a new one runs $350 to $390. Does it have the different bearings on it already? and how many miles are on it?

WyoCherokee

x2 on flares. ran without them for a whole week and hated it. water/slush/mud everywhere just cruising the street!

SatiricalHen

I was planning on pulling the bearings to measure the shim packs and make dummy bearing for installing my new locker, so it probably won't come with them. I have had it since summer so less than 10,000 for sure but can't say exactly what are on it. For reference they don't come with bearings (at least mine didn't) and at the time of purchase lowest price I found was $390.

SatiricalHen

Got the front differential apart, only had 2 in/lbs of preload carrier and all in. Carrier fell out after caps were removed. Time for locker. Probably will finish tomorrow morning.

SatiricalHen

Replaced the lsd with air locker. Was a lot quieter on the way to school this week. Going back home this weekend to set up the air fittings and power so it actually does something. the air line is close, but clears.

chipmaker

Damn, Mr. Big money! Lol, looking good man, you go with a Yukon or ARB?

SatiricalHen

Tjm pro locker, when we going to wheel together? And I painted some of my jeep too. Just waiting on the 3 link and it'll be a whole new jeep

SatiricalHen

Going to wire up a switch to the solenoid tomorrow. I would like your opinion. Should I use the switch it came with? And if so where? Should I use one of my switches next to the wheel that isn't being used, or should I use the switch next to the rear wiper and put the amp remote line to another switch. fyi the switch it came with is very large and might maybe fit if I did some massaging in the third slot of my switch panel, but it would be a squeeze.

Edit: maybe I could put it down behind the transfer case shifter

chipmaker

IMHO I would remove two of the unused switches on the cluster and put it there. That way if you ever decide to do a selectable in the rear you can remove the other two unused switches and put the rear switch there too. As long as you put it somewhere that you will have room for another switch when you go selectable in the rear (we both know it will happen eventually, lol)

Daystar switches in the center A/C vent would be a good idea as well.