N20jeep

Took care of my master cylinder clearance issue



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Atmos

I bent my tie rod into my hydro fitting on the trail. that was fun. I'd almost take high steer over the grizzly and weld it for the time being personally. but something tells me you have a better grasp on jeep building than I do lol

Basslicks

Wow Nick. You've gotta be really excited man, this build is going above and beyond the level of your last jeep! Congrats man!

N20jeep

Unfortunatly, the near future plans only include the machining for highsteer on the drag link. So the center link and ram would still be on top of the factory knuckle arm. I dont really trust the factory knuckles handling all the steering forces in the highsteer position. So one day ill pick up some reids or similar high steer knucklesto do full high steer

N20jeep

You have no idea, i really want to wheel it!

HS00XJ

I love it already! Though I would have loved to see you keep alittle more body ,but you cant fit 40's in there can ya ? LOL

Atmos

Interesting. I have seen a ford ball joint knuckle split down the middle, but that was on 44" pitbulls under a full size chevy buggy. I've always wanted reids, I just have stock F250 knuckles for now, but I'm tempted to take my chances with the highsteer only running 37's. bending the tie rod all the time drives me nuts

N20jeep

Trust me, im trying to keep as much sheet metal as possible.

N20jeep

I plan to sleeve my tie rod with 1"*.120 wall dom when i go to weld the inserts in. So i hope that will help

N20jeep

Starting to modify my crossmember. Im planning on welding nuts in the stiffeners and bolting it up from the bottom. So ill need to cut off the outer side pieces.

94XjSport94

Mine is slugged on the inside with 3' of 1" solid CR steel.







1" OD DOM will not fit in 1" ID DOM. It will need to be turned down to a close fit. I already tried.

N20jeep

Yep, planned on a little machining. Had to do the same thing when I sleeved my rear 4 link

94XjSport94

I'll be quiet now.

N20jeep

decided to change my crossmember mounting. on the last XJ i sleeved the frame rail and through bolted it with 2 1/2" grade 8 bolts per side. it worked ok, but was always a pain to drop down and line back up. so i decided since i was installing stiffeners anyways and that i would have to modify it to fit the stiffeners that i would bolt it up from the bottom instead. so i cut off the outer 1/4" plate (left the inner, because it helps position the crossmember and it doesn't get in the way.) mocked up the stiffeners, marked everything, and drilled.

i drilled 5 holes per side, and welded in 5 1/2x13tpi nuts into the stiffeners per side. as of now i will just be using normal hex grade 8 bolts to secure it. and down the line i may run countersunk bolts. either way shouldn't be an issue since it will all be covered in a UHMV belly so i won't have an issue with hitting the bolt heads on everything.

94XjSport94

Why not add a flange at the end of the 2x6 so you can just drop the center section?