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Old 09-17-2013, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Kerrdog

Measured the front since the back is jacked up. Flares are off so I measured to the fender. I got 19". Figure the flares would have been an inch or two, so we are still close to stock height up front.

Do you think the springs will settle? They are from a JY S10. I was thinking the settling would have happened already??

And thanks for the info on determining springs for up front. It's exciting! I lay in bed thinking of this stuff!
What does the rear measure at now?
Old 09-17-2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pittman71
What does the rear measure at now?
From center of hub to bottom of flare is 24". Does this signify an actual lift of ~7"?
Old 09-17-2013, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Kerrdog

From center of hub to bottom of flare is 24". Does this signify an actual lift of ~7"?
Sounds like it unless it settles some. Some of that lift is because of the relocators. There are some no lift designs but since you already made those, it will be easier to remove a leaf or two.
Old 09-17-2013, 08:25 PM
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Got to think on this. I will definitely remove the helper springs, but maybe not one of the S10 leaves. It will get a trailer from time to time, plus a storage box in the back. I figure it will "even out" wih time and use. But I've been wrong before... once!

Thanks for your help, Pittman.
Old 09-18-2013, 08:59 AM
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No problem at all. I PMed you a few good links about no lift relocators in case you decide to revisit those. They have good pictures of the parts involved and explanations on the install. Its a good read and not too long.
Old 09-18-2013, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pittman71
No problem at all. I PMed you a few good links about no lift relocators in case you decide to revisit those. They have good pictures of the parts involved and explanations on the install. Its a good read and not too long.
Got your PM and checked out the links. Thanks. I need to go back and find out the distance the shackles dropped with my brackets (as you suggested earlier). I keep forgetting that they contributed to the OA lift, so I don't really know how much lift came from just the springs. I'm pretty certain I got more than 4" with the XJ main and the whole S10 pack, as some of the guys on your link were discussing. I will confirm this for the thread.

Sorry to mislead anyone. Pure exuberance on my part!
Old 09-18-2013, 10:00 PM
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Not misleading. XJs are very different animals from CJs so there's going to be a learning curve. That being said, you seem to be trucking right along. Do you have a picture from the side showing the shackle angle? Looking forward to you report back.

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Old 09-20-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pittman71
Not misleading. XJs are very different animals from CJs so there's going to be a learning curve. That being said, you seem to be trucking right along. Do you have a picture from the side showing the shackle angle? Looking forward to you report back.
I am bypassing the picture because the shackles are vertical, and everyone knows what that looks like! So I will move the shackle bolt one notch to give me more angle. The way the shackles flare (talking about the construction of the shackle, going from narrow at one end to wider at the other end) could create a clearance issue as they may end up hitting the bracket under flexing situations. I don't see that happening in the near future, but a thought for down the road.

So springs gave me, apparently, 4"-7" of lift. I still don't know how much lift I have?? I know the DS goes whump, whump, whump when Fal putts arpund the yard!

The relocation bracket gave me 3" of lift. So the BP springs (my wife keeps telling me that bastard is not nice!) gave me ~7" of lift. The BP consists of XJ main and all the S10 leaves. The helper spring (overload) is XJ, not S10. There is a total of 5 springs. I will be dropping out the helper spring... don't think I need it.

Question... I had just replaced the shocks with some new Gabriels (factory recommended shocks). They are far too short now. Any issues with cutting off the shock mounts and moving/welding them (rotate them to the top of the axle) so those shocks work?

Thanks, Everybody.
Old 09-20-2013, 07:30 PM
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You've got some options:

1.Alter relocators by changing them to "no-lift" versions.

This would mean cutting off the factory shackle mount box (which is not beefy anyway) and the box on your relocators that fits up in it.

OR
2.Remove helpers-which may or may not do enough.

OR
3. A combination of 1 and 2.

If it were my Jeep and my goal was 33s, I would do #1 and throw the BPs on it first to see how it sat. At this point you would still have around 7 inches of true suspension lift by the measurements you gave. That should be more than enough, especially if you will be trimming fenders. This would also create less problems for you to fix. Not to mention on road drivability, mileage, etc. You could always remove the helpers later if necessary.

That being said....It not my XJ. So you do what you see fit!

Last edited by pittman71; 09-20-2013 at 08:45 PM.
Old 09-21-2013, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pittman71
You've got some options:

1.Alter relocators by changing them to "no-lift" versions.

This would mean cutting off the factory shackle mount box (which is not beefy anyway) and the box on your relocators that fits up in it.

OR
2.Remove helpers-which may or may not do enough.

OR
3. A combination of 1 and 2.

If it were my Jeep and my goal was 33s, I would do #1 and throw the BPs on it first to see how it sat. At this point you would still have around 7 inches of true suspension lift by the measurements you gave. That should be more than enough, especially if you will be trimming fenders. This would also create less problems for you to fix. Not to mention on road drivability, mileage, etc. You could always remove the helpers later if necessary.

That being said....It not my XJ. So you do what you see fit!
Sorry, Pittman. You lost me. I guess I wasn't paying attention... you're saying it's too high? I'm still trying to understand why/what/where!

Are we going with the premise that I got a total of 7" of lift, measured at the rear hub/fender (factory 17", now is 24")?

If so, then 3" of lift with the brackets, and truly only 4" of lift with the springs. Which jibes with other threads regarding BP springs.

I missed WHY you think it's too much lift??

Be patient... I'll get it!
Old 09-21-2013, 08:41 AM
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My apologies for the confusion Kerrdog. When I wrote that I had just pulled a double shift and had a bit of a brain fart and confused myself.

After much needed I can clarify some of my thoughts.

For some reason I had in my head that you were getting 10" of lift. I realize now it is more like 7 inches. I also remember that you plan on trimming fenders.

Some will argue that trimming fenders isnt necessary to fit 33's if you have 7 inches of lift. Especially here in Florida.

Some will also agree that 33's can work well with a 4" lift (sometimes less if you ask the LCOG guys) and a little fender trimming.

This route still enables your rig to work well offroad while still having decent on road drivabilty, mileage, etc. and will cost less and cause less problems.

Hope this makes better sense now that I am somewhat awake.
Old 09-21-2013, 09:56 AM
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This thread will show pics of a bunch of XJs with various lift and tire combos with and without trimming.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/xj...up-thread-260/
Old 09-21-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pittman71
My apologies for the confusion Kerrdog. When I wrote that I had just pulled a double shift and had a bit of a brain fart and confused myself.

After much needed I can clarify some of my thoughts.

For some reason I had in my head that you were getting 10" of lift. I realize now it is more like 7 inches. I also remember that you plan on trimming fenders.

Some will argue that trimming fenders isnt necessary to fit 33's if you have 7 inches of lift. Especially here in Florida.

Some will also agree that 33's can work well with a 4" lift (sometimes less if you ask the LCOG guys) and a little fender trimming.

This route still enables your rig to work well offroad while still having decent on road drivabilty, mileage, etc. and will cost less and cause less problems.

Hope this makes better sense now that I am somewhat awake.
The 10" of lift is my fault. That was my measurement at the back of the Jeep, under the tailgate to the ground. I think the lift was exacerbated being the farthest point. For kicks and giggles, I placed a level across the side door handles and lifted the front of the Jeep until it was level. I raised it almost exactly 7". So I will get appropriate springs from Rusty's.

If I can clear 33s without cutting, then I won't cut. Figured I would have to from reading. Guess I need to just get into it and find out where it takes me.

Been doing research on longarms and 4 link. 4 link seems easy. I can't find anything that defines parameters for it though. Can I simply make arms and stick them on as long as it is symmetrical??? This is simplified, of course...

Wheels are ordered... Soft 8 in 15X8.

Waiting on brake parts.

Pittman, thank you for your help and advice. Glad you got some rest!
Old 09-21-2013, 12:55 PM
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We adjusted the shackle angle so we have ~45*. Really helps the ride. But it also dropped the lift by 3/4"! Interesting how everything is tied together.
Old 09-21-2013, 05:17 PM
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Sounds good. Since you are going that direction, you might look into TC drops.

Many guys do homebrews of these which I am sure you are capable of.

Not sure what to tell you about the long arms.

Maybe some guys with similar lift as you are going for can chime in on other things you should look into for the next thing on the to do list?

Anyone?


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