Doc's POS
#33
No, I don't lick fish.
Good solid progress. She's comin' along.
#34
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I found another issue, the sway bar is making contact with the coil springs so I need to address that. My rear drums look to be shot, so disk brake conversion here I come. So I have the material to do a cowl or snorkel. Just debating which one. I have a lot left to do but Rome wasn't built in a day.
#35
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If you have the stock sway bar links you'll need either longer ones or drop brackets for the bar, or just no sway bars. If you're doing a disc swap don't forget to get the guts to the disc brake booster out of the Jeep you take it from. I would say go cowl, it's cheaper, looks better imho and works the same.
#36
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you have the stock sway bar links you'll need either longer ones or drop brackets for the bar, or just no sway bars. If you're doing a disc swap don't forget to get the guts to the disc brake booster out of the Jeep you take it from. I would say go cowl, it's cheaper, looks better imho and works the same.
Have extended sway bar links, still hits. I'm swapping the whole master cylinder and diaphragm. The cowl is also what I was leaning towards
#37
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got the rear end painted and all the parts prepped. Going to do the disk brake conversion since my drums are shot. Rear will be finished then going to start finishing the dash and gettin a front clip. I also plan to make some unibody tie ins with d-ring attach points that'll I'll use for recovery. Plan on running a stock bumper with holes cut to accommodate these points.
#38
No, I don't lick fish.
I found another issue, the sway bar is making contact with the coil springs so I need to address that. My rear drums look to be shot, so disk brake conversion here I come. So I have the material to do a cowl or snorkel. Just debating which one. I have a lot left to do but Rome wasn't built in a day.
With the Dana 44 you will need to get a set of bearing retainer plates. You will also need to redrill the holes in the backing plates to match the 44 housing mounting holes.
On the Dana 44 & Chrysler 8.25 you will need to enlarge the opening so it will slide over the axle tube.
With the Dana 35 this is a direct bolt on."
170 bucks... this is what I plan on doing. He also sells a "kit" for WJ front brake conversion as well.
I too would go cowl.... snorkel seems like a waste because if your jeep goes that deep, you'll more than likely have more to worry about that just water getting into your intake... think about all the sensors, the distributor, the ECM, TCM, alternator, etc, etc. If you're really wanting the look of the snorkel though, don't shell out for the ARB snorkel. There one that someone sells on ebay for like 150 bucks that's exactly the same.
#39
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Yeah cowl it is and as far as brake conversion I'll just pick up the parts this week. Unless it's cheaper to just get the kit. But I'll still get the rest of the lift done so I can measure for the new driveshaft and have ready to roll once she has new brakes
#41
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got the lift fully installed, I still need to torque everything, install SYE and measure for DS. Then steering, brakes, and a header panel. Mostly just odds&ends left to do
#43
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can only go so fast between school, and working on my other vehicles. My "dad" (best friends pop) wheels a lot with his CJ7 and has a wheeling trip planned at the end of April with the weekend spent at the camp house out in the Ocala national forest. So as you can guess my goal is to be able to go. My steering my have to wait but everything else will be getting done.
#44
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Year: 1996
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Plus my budget can only support some many mods with all vehicles being worked on and my tattoo bill is getting excessive so that is hindering my jeep budget