Will's 1 ton Cherocar
01-20-2015, 12:14 PM
#1456
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: grand rapids
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
They're decent enough. Only a 1.25" mounting width instead of 1.5" like what my Bilsteins are. Go ahead and order them. Took me a month to get them and they were always shipping and in stock every time I called...
Yeah, PM Hobag and ask him for just the passenger mount and hardware. I got it for a good price and chopped off the LCA mount and boxed in the upper. I don't see how it is feasible to weld the Clayton brand upper mount to the frame mount once it is welded to the frame. It's so tight for space you'd have to have some kind of super power to do it.
Right on il have to get ahold of him. And its not. Lol like you said unless you have some superpowers...it aint happenin.
01-21-2015, 09:09 AM
#1459
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I'm ordering metal for steering this week. Lol
I think fastenal quoted my friend $220 to ship a pair of these axles from Ga to AZ. Probably 1/2 to 2/3 that price. It was $125 to freight my wheels through them from my town to Knoxville.
I think fastenal quoted my friend $220 to ship a pair of these axles from Ga to AZ. Probably 1/2 to 2/3 that price. It was $125 to freight my wheels through them from my town to Knoxville.
01-21-2015, 07:34 PM
#1460
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Boone, NC
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
hmm thats actually not bad, didnt know fastenal could do that. but i could also just drive down there for that much to drink beer while I watch you labor... hahaha juss kiddin
01-22-2015, 12:34 AM
#1462
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Come down. As long as I have two days off back to back we could get some work done.
No, the stock tie Rod is stupid big, ugly, and mine has a slight bend in the middle of it from something. I will be bending a piece of 1.5" .25 wall DOM for mine. The passenger side knuckle has fords new double taper done to it so I will be drilling it out to 1" and welding in a "bushing" of 1" .120 wall DOM for my 3/4" steering bolt. Also making my own redneck engineered double shear knuckle.
No, the stock tie Rod is stupid big, ugly, and mine has a slight bend in the middle of it from something. I will be bending a piece of 1.5" .25 wall DOM for mine. The passenger side knuckle has fords new double taper done to it so I will be drilling it out to 1" and welding in a "bushing" of 1" .120 wall DOM for my 3/4" steering bolt. Also making my own redneck engineered double shear knuckle.
01-26-2015, 04:10 PM
#1463
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Springfield Virginia
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How's it been trying to get coil and shocks on that SD60? That's the main reason I'm thinking about splurging on a kp60 or maybe just bite the bullet and get some coilovers or ori's
01-26-2015, 07:57 PM
#1464
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
gonna steal this question and semi rant
if you're like me, unfortunately you'll never build your rig just once. you'll build it, tweak it, rebuild it, tweak it again, consider scrapping it, consider quitting wheeling, and then finally just build it how you always should have built it
with CO's or ORI's from the very start. the cost is monumental but the time saving would be unreal. screw coil springs and shocks on 1 tons. and leafs springs.
if you're like me, unfortunately you'll never build your rig just once. you'll build it, tweak it, rebuild it, tweak it again, consider scrapping it, consider quitting wheeling, and then finally just build it how you always should have built it
with CO's or ORI's from the very start. the cost is monumental but the time saving would be unreal. screw coil springs and shocks on 1 tons. and leafs springs.
01-27-2015, 11:39 AM
#1465
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
It is a huge PITA to shave this sum***** down. There is so much cast and bull**** in the way compared to a 99-04 or a KP. I have the axle under the jeep with coils and am making steering right now. It is doable, but you just want to have to. Mounting CO's or ORI's to the inner C's at the bolt where the stock coils go would be the way to do it on these. Atmos is right, up front cost is offset by the relative ease of install, adjustability, and one time install.
01-27-2015, 09:28 PM
#1467
THE Admin
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lantana, Fl
Posts: 34,036
Received 231 Likes
on
187 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Been busy. It was an absolute nightmare trying to find tires for a 16.5" wheel that weren't boggers, weren't backordered 6 weeks, or weren't $500 each. So, I listed them on Hardline and sold them for almost what I had in them. Got them out of the way and order 4 plain ol steel wheels. Got them mounted up this weekend to some beautiful 39" red label Krawler stickys. Cannot wait to get them in the dirt.
Traded Lowrange2 a loaf of bread and a $20 for another driveshaft so I can have a spare for front and rear.
Also picked up my axles this weekend from a friend. He geared them for me for a sweet deal since I didn't have the time this go around. 5.38's and welded carriers. Rear needs paint, tubes welded, and it'll be ready to go in. Front needs links, tie rod bent up, paint, and hydro assist mounts and it'll be done. I'm using a passenger side HD Offroad bracket for my upper 3rd link, glad I didnt have to cut the floor up. Was surprised to find a non full case LSD carrier in the 10.5. Not sure if anyone here has ever welded gears but it is hard to get a "pretty" weld out of them once they have been soaked in gear oil for years. Also, I would take the shafts out, drain the diff, flush the diff, and then put the shafts back in when you weld the carrier to make sure that if the carrier warps from the heat you are able to remove and reinstall the shafts. If left out and the carrier warps you will probably never get the shafts back in.
Traded Lowrange2 a loaf of bread and a $20 for another driveshaft so I can have a spare for front and rear.
Also picked up my axles this weekend from a friend. He geared them for me for a sweet deal since I didn't have the time this go around. 5.38's and welded carriers. Rear needs paint, tubes welded, and it'll be ready to go in. Front needs links, tie rod bent up, paint, and hydro assist mounts and it'll be done. I'm using a passenger side HD Offroad bracket for my upper 3rd link, glad I didnt have to cut the floor up. Was surprised to find a non full case LSD carrier in the 10.5. Not sure if anyone here has ever welded gears but it is hard to get a "pretty" weld out of them once they have been soaked in gear oil for years. Also, I would take the shafts out, drain the diff, flush the diff, and then put the shafts back in when you weld the carrier to make sure that if the carrier warps from the heat you are able to remove and reinstall the shafts. If left out and the carrier warps you will probably never get the shafts back in.
01-28-2015, 03:43 AM
#1468
No, I don't lick fish.
01-29-2015, 10:24 PM
#1469
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Got a little bit of work done lately.
Made my passenger knuckle double shear, made all my links, got my steering box off to drill and tap as well as reinforce the frame, and even tried to clean up my garage. Selling my rear 60 on Saturday, should have some change to cover the diff covers I'm about to buy.
Pics:
Passenger knuckle has Ford's new double taper hole that wouldn't work for me. I welded in a piece of 1" 11 gauge DOM to act as a bushing and called it good.
My alabama hone.
Rear u bolt plates that I welded some tube to. 2x2 goes down to the axle for support.
Tie Rod to clear the diff cover.
1.5x.25 wall DOM bent at 15* and gusseted. I had a 69" piece I gave to a friend to bend. He gave it back and I had to trim and make it fit. It has a slug in it. A 1" solid piece of cold rolled steel with plug welds. Shouldn't bend it. Lol...
Learned this today:
1.5" DOM is drawn over the mandrel to be exactly 1.5" on a caliper. Same for all sizes of DOM. A 1" piece I had would not fit inside the 1.5x.25 I had. I went down to the steel supplier and asked them about it. We put calipers on both pieces, ID was exactly 1" and the OD was exactly 1". Wouldn't go together for anything. Liked about .001 and it would have slid in like butter. So, I bought some solid cold rolled for cheaper than 1" 3/16" DOM and headed home. Without having a lathe, I made a West Ga lathe. Me with a flap disk. Some kind of witchery was afoot with as to why the tube wouldn't slide together but it just wouldn't. Makes sense as to why 1.5 works for 1.75x.120 wall though. Just gotta use a hammer or Alabama hone to clean up the inside of you drill holes or anything.
Should have hydro assist mounted and the box tapped this weekend.
http://s273.photobucket.com/user/94x...st1odx.jpg.htm
Made my passenger knuckle double shear, made all my links, got my steering box off to drill and tap as well as reinforce the frame, and even tried to clean up my garage. Selling my rear 60 on Saturday, should have some change to cover the diff covers I'm about to buy.
Pics:
Passenger knuckle has Ford's new double taper hole that wouldn't work for me. I welded in a piece of 1" 11 gauge DOM to act as a bushing and called it good.
My alabama hone.
Rear u bolt plates that I welded some tube to. 2x2 goes down to the axle for support.
Tie Rod to clear the diff cover.
1.5x.25 wall DOM bent at 15* and gusseted. I had a 69" piece I gave to a friend to bend. He gave it back and I had to trim and make it fit. It has a slug in it. A 1" solid piece of cold rolled steel with plug welds. Shouldn't bend it. Lol...
Learned this today:
1.5" DOM is drawn over the mandrel to be exactly 1.5" on a caliper. Same for all sizes of DOM. A 1" piece I had would not fit inside the 1.5x.25 I had. I went down to the steel supplier and asked them about it. We put calipers on both pieces, ID was exactly 1" and the OD was exactly 1". Wouldn't go together for anything. Liked about .001 and it would have slid in like butter. So, I bought some solid cold rolled for cheaper than 1" 3/16" DOM and headed home. Without having a lathe, I made a West Ga lathe. Me with a flap disk. Some kind of witchery was afoot with as to why the tube wouldn't slide together but it just wouldn't. Makes sense as to why 1.5 works for 1.75x.120 wall though. Just gotta use a hammer or Alabama hone to clean up the inside of you drill holes or anything.
Should have hydro assist mounted and the box tapped this weekend.
http://s273.photobucket.com/user/94x...st1odx.jpg.htm