DieselD

Ok. I see because they're both 27 spline. I forget that 8.25 had to different spline counts.

I googled and read this:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/archive/i...t-1088480.html

For a minute before I realized, its you! Lol guess you're indeed a pioneer.

DieselD

Oh and if you ever have a problem with the rubber hose fix leaking on the trans lines (I did before) you can get stock replacements from summit for about $40 for both.

BatmanXJ

The next step was to giver her a heart transplant. It had 298k on the clock when I started the project. She still ran like a champ but was spitting oil out of the dipstick and loosing a quart every 20 miles or so. It lasted until the end of deer season though.

The Donor 1994 4.0 HO 174k on the clock. The reason it was at my uncles jy was that it had caught on fire. The reason it caught on fire was terrible wiring on the injectors.
This was my first engine swap and I am very pleased with my self with the results. I done this completely by myself. It was actually easier than I expected.
I used a tree and come along to pull my motor. I used my uncles wrecker to pull donor and my tree again for installing in my jeep.

Here are a few tips for doing a motor swap and then a few pics I took.
Loosen the clutch fan and water pump pulls with belt still on the engine. Don't take them off just break them loose. (helpful when taking them off)

Exhaust/Intake manifolds. I would pull them off before pulling the engine. 2 reasons

1. Will allow you to get the top to bolts out of the bell housing easier. (I will explain that later)
2. give you a good spot to hook your hoist/chain when pulling the engine.


When pulling the manifolds don't for get to disconnect the fuel lines from the bracket or you may bend and break your metal fuel lines.

CPS. removing the CPS when pulling the engine is a catch 22. Because it is difficult to get to the bolts but if you choose not to remove it. You are taking the risk of smashing it with the engine when pulling/dropping. I used an 11mm deep well 1/4 inch drive with 1 small extension from the bottom. Top bolt I used an 11mm ratchet gear wrench.

Dust cover 2 bolts. I used an 18mm wrench and socket.

Torque converter bolts. I used 15mm ratchet wrench. I put a 18mm socket on the crank pully to turn.

The dreaded top two bolts in the bell housing. 3/8 ratcheting gear wrench with a breaker bar tube. What I done since I had the manifolds off I hooked up the hoist and removed the motor mount bolts and lowered the engine down a little bit. This allowed me to get to both from the top of the engine bay with ease. The bolts are inverted torx E12 for technical reasons. I am just stating what worked for me.

How I secured my tranny. May not be the safest way but worked for me. I took 2 ratchet straps and hooked 1 each to the dust cover bolt holes. I ran the other ends and crossed them like an X to the A arms. I think this was easier because it allowed the tranny to move a little bit while putting the engine back in. It also kept the tranny at the same height that I had it at so made putting the engine back in. Felt safer than using a jack to me.

Oil Leaks- When getting a JY donor It would be a good idea to check for possible leaks. (look at condition) Very common leak in the 4.0 Cherokee is the Oil filter Adapter O-ring. This is a pretty difficult job when engine is in the jeep (needing to make special tools to get the big Torx 60 bolt off.) I Learned the hard way that I should have just replaced these O-rings before dropping the donor. total cost would be around $10 that's buying the Torx-60 socket and the O-ring set.

Oil pan leaks. If you have the extra money I would go ahead and do a rear main seal/Oil Pan gasket in the future. Rear main seal is around $6 and the oil pan gasket is about $35 for the re-usable one piece.
Both of those leaks can be fixed with motor in the jeep but would be alot easier with motor out.

Freeze Plugs- check the condition while motor is out. They are not very difficult to replace while engine is out. They tend to rust and leak from the factory. They are not that expensive (I would suggest the brass replacements) rubber expandable plugs will work but to each is to own.

Labeling-
Wires I used regular labels and wrote a description that made sense to me

Bolts- I used about 100 zip lock bags. And a few sharpies. And each part that I took off got a bag with description and what size socket/wrench (I went as far as weather I used an extension or not even deep or short barrel.) The more info you give your self will make it easier putting it back in.

Donor

Donor

My Old heads Issue was in cylinder 6

My Old Block

closest pic I have to being completed.

BatmanXJ

I got this lil guy along the way.
Jaxon 5lbs 14oz when he was born. I cant wait to get his help on future projects.



I done some trading and got some 32 11.50 TSL SSR's aobut 50% tread for my 31 10.50s.


I done a little rattle can job. Fenders and bottom trim are bed lined and the rest is Chrysler green rattle can.


I was rubbing again with the bigger tires


I got some 2 inch coil spacers and the Lowering shakels from O'reillys. It took me about an hour and half for the back and 2-3 hours for the front. I done this by my self. The use of good tools and lifts make doing projects alot eaiser. I get no vibes from anything so far. I did the re-drill on the track bar mount. I will get an adjustable one someday. I am also considering doing a custom long arm build. That will take me a while though
How is sits now

BatmanXJ

Haha yeh thats me lol. I just forgot about the build thread for long time.

BatmanXJ

yeh I am going to fix all my loose ends some day. I plan on getting a new trans cooler at some point. I'm going to replace them when I do that project.

BatmanXJ

Other things that I have done that I dont have any pictures for.

New Hatch struts
Cb radio
Cup Holders
Headliner
Bedlined Floors
Put some lights I had in the shed on the front instead of my water filled Factory fogs.
Extended brake lines for rear (1991 Dodge Dakota rear line.Same other than 6 inches longer)


Re-built an old trailer for the jeep to be hauled on. New floor, New jack, New tires, new lights, Tool box added to front for parts/tools. have $845 total invested in the trailer.
This is where it site currently as we have a ride for tomorrow. I trailer it to most of our rides because its a 90 mile trip to where we ride from. The ORV park is about 120 miles from my house.
I pull it with my 2004 FX4 f-150 Triton.

BatmanXJ

We had a wonderful ride. No serious breakdowns. Our worst issue was my buddy in his Bronco 2 had lug nuts back off on his rear. Took a while to get them back on snug. My buddy in the red Cherokee had traction issues but only needed a light pull once all day. the Samurai needed winched out of one creek. He was the only one who attempted it. B2 got stuck once and high centered which was perfect for us to use as a jack to get his lugs tight again. Here are a few pictures that were taken.
Red XJ is 98 with a budget lift. 29 inch thorn birds that have 0 tread on them. The sides were the only thing helping him out.

BatmanXJ

I have kept up with 99% of receipts. Not counting fluids I.E. oil, and gas. Its nice to know how many life time warranties I have though.

Parts- Price
Jeep 1300
Tranny Mount 40
Gaskets 39.88
Mics 35.4
Mics 5.15
Mics 25.1
Brakes 33.54
Mics 72.48
Mics 4.92
Centerballjoints 65.84
Muffler 48.53
Altenator/bedline 230
Core Alt -63
Thermostat 24.83
Front Brakes 31.04
Fuel Pump 88.88
Mics 13.66
Tailpipe 34.53
Mics 19.99
Mics 14.37
Mics 25.12
Misc/Tuneup 120
Misc 25.54
Battery 147.79
Tires 804
Antifreeze 13.56
Rear Wiper 8.99
CB 40
Mics 3.27
Motor mounts 40
Starter 65
Rad Flush 24.34
Bed liner 16
U-Pull it Random 66 703 Injectors, Hatch Struts, Tail light, fan shroud
Paint 53
Shackle 40
Coil Spacers 28
Rear Brake line 25
Tire I ripped 154
Locker 150
Donor Motor 0
Hoses 50
Water Pump 37.99
Random guess 300

Total: 4302.74

DieselD

You buy a lot of Mics. Do you record music? Lol...

BatmanXJ

I put Misc when it was a bunch of little stuff on one receipt. Wire, specialty tools, pretty much random stuff. I'm sure most people don't have that accurate of an account of what they have spent. I just figured it would be neat to keep up with it. I also have all my receipts for times when warranty comes into play. When I replaced my motor mounts the second time they couldn't find in computer so it was a good thing I had it.

BatmanXJ

My Next set of plans. This will most likely happen next weekend. I'm gonna take it easy this weekend for a change.

1. Rear Main seal/Oil Pan Gasket
2. Front Hub Assemblies
3. Take Dana 35 locker out of C8.25 rear and put stock spiders back in. Weld the spiders up.
4. Put the Dana 35 locker up front in the D30
5. Replace what ever else I find that it needs axle seals and such.

Now that I trailer it to all of our rides I don't mind it being welded up in the rear. To me it makes another cool application of the same locker to haha. I will replace the springs pins and get a cross shaft for the D30.

DieselD

I figured that. I just said "mics" because the first bunch of miscellaneous items are spelled that way. Then you switch to "misc" lol

Anyways, that locker is pretty damn versitle.

BatmanXJ

Considering I bought it used for only $150 it has been very good money spent haha. I have already gotten my moneys worth out of it in my rear.

Luke95

Hows the jeep doing?