Jeep Builds Make your own jeep build thread here, discuss and view jeeps here. All Jeep models are welcome here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Almost There: 01’ XJ Build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-25-2012, 04:08 PM
  #241  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

Originally Posted by Captain_America
What advantages will get from lengthening the WB by one inch?
Originally Posted by HRDROKN
A little more tire clearance at the back of the fender (may have to trim at the front) and better approach angle.
Bingo. Those are the reasons why I did it. Honestly it doesn't do much, but the front tires used to rub just a tiny bit at the corner at full stuff so this should help, and it gives a slightly improved approach angle.

I got the jeep back from the shop last night and it drives like a dream. No more creaking joints, and when I go over bumps it feels like I am driving a stock truck. I don't know why I ever got those drop brackets, they don't compare at all to having properly set up long arms.

It's raining here, but once it stops I will go get some pictures. The guys at w. tex offroad did a a good job welding everything up.

I also bought a klune underdrive crawlbox, and will be putting a cableshifted flipped d300 behind it. Full writeup on that to follow.

Last edited by gvns8; 01-25-2012 at 05:13 PM.
Old 01-28-2012, 11:14 AM
  #242  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

I finished intalling my Clayton 3-Link kit and here are the pictures of everything installed. I couldn't find anyone with detailed install pictures on this forum or any other forum, so I figure these picture of my install might be helpful for someone. Top quality kit. Can't wait to trail test it.

Underside View:



Driver Side:





Passenger Side:



Front Control Arm Axle Bridge to hold upper control arm johnny joint mount cut to fit my truss:







View From Back:



Front view of driver side rear UCA mount:



Back view of driver side rear UCA mount and brace welded to unibody rail:



Passenger Side LCA mount:



Finally Both sides of the crossmember welded to the frame:




Last edited by gvns8; 01-28-2012 at 08:07 PM.
Old 02-01-2012, 01:50 AM
  #243  
Member
 
Captain_America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Low Output
Default

I have been looking for detail pics like these! Good shots. I want to build my own!
Old 02-02-2012, 02:25 PM
  #244  
CF Veteran
 
fritzthekatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Nashville
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Great looking truck and build thread. I have a 01 in the same color i picked up back in Nov. You given me many upgrades to consider as well as many solutions to problems that I might see. Thanks for the insight.
Old 02-02-2012, 06:37 PM
  #245  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

Originally Posted by Captain_America
I have been looking for detail pics like these! Good shots. I want to build my own!
No problem bud. It would definately not be too hard to build, but I got it at 25% off so it would have costed me nearly as much to fab myself and a ton more time.

Originally Posted by fritzthekatt
Great looking truck and build thread. I have a 01 in the same color i picked up back in Nov. You given me many upgrades to consider as well as many solutions to problems that I might see. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks man. Glad I could help out.

Last edited by gvns8; 02-02-2012 at 06:57 PM.
Old 02-02-2012, 09:30 PM
  #246  
Junior Member
 
ullbsorry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Union, Oh
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Good looking Jeep build man. I grew up in Colo Spgs and lived a few miles south of the Air Force Academy right up against the mountains. Trying to move back out there within the next year to be on the popo force. After looking through your whole build Im thinkin that Im ditchin my 2000 XJ 2 door 4x4 and lookin for a 4 door for when i move out there. Keep up the awesome work.
Old 02-03-2012, 12:48 PM
  #247  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

Originally Posted by ullbsorry
Good looking Jeep build man. I grew up in Colo Spgs and lived a few miles south of the Air Force Academy right up against the mountains. Trying to move back out there within the next year to be on the popo force. After looking through your whole build Im thinkin that Im ditchin my 2000 XJ 2 door 4x4 and lookin for a 4 door for when i move out there. Keep up the awesome work.
Ya I definitely miss colorado great place to live with some amazing trails to check out. 2 door xjs can look good too I just wanted 4 doors to make it easier on passengers.
Old 02-03-2012, 03:36 PM
  #248  
Junior Member
 
ullbsorry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Union, Oh
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by gvns8
Ya I definitely miss colorado great place to live with some amazing trails to check out. 2 door xjs can look good too I just wanted 4 doors to make it easier on passengers.
Yeah I thought about keeping the 2 door but I have a daughter still in a car seat and then like you said...theres passengers. Let thme open their own door and get in. lol
Old 02-04-2012, 12:26 AM
  #249  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

So now that I have my long arm install done, I'll post an update on my next big project I have started working on.

Here are some videos of what my transfer case sounds like:

Four wheel drive:

2wd:


Rather than fix my 231 case again, I am going to replace it with a different type of case. During the last month or so I have been doing a ton of research and have decided to do a Klune V/D300 setup. This will give me twin sticks (ability to do front digs)plus underdrive, it is fully gear driven and much stronger.

I will have the following gears to choose from: 1:1, 2.62:1, 2.7:1, and 7.1:1, so basically I will have a four speed case with the two stock ranges plus super low range and a slightly higher than stock range. With just a 231 box and 4.56 gears, my crawl ratio is 35 (calculator here). For perspective, if I were to put in 4.88 gears I would only be at 37. My low crawl ratio with my new Klune V/d300 will be a much more respectable 90.

So here is a breakdown of the parts I am using to do this:

-Klune V Underdrive with direct shifter and 2.72 gears.
(Bought it used at half price in great shape- I have it sitting around waiting to be installed)



-Dana 300 transfercase out of a 1984 CJ flipped and clocked up
(Bought the one shown in this picture- just waiting for it to arrive in the mail )



-To make everything easier and give a stock look, I will be using Northwest Fab Reverse Cable shifters. The base is 4"x8" allowing it to fit in place of the stock shifter.
(Will buy once they are restocked in a week)

It comes with the twin shifter in this picture, but not the cable bracket:


It comes with this bracket:


-I may rebuild the case or just put new seals in the case depending on how it looks when I open it up

-I will either add another cross member to add support between the crawlbox and the d300, or add a support plate off the clayton crossmember. I also plan to do a full bell skid to protect my new stuff.

Other considerations:

-My speedo sensor/vss is supposed to fit right into the d300 and be calibrated by swapping in the correct tooth speedo gear.

-The klune direct shifter will come through the floor about 3-4 inches behind the centerpoint on the stock t/c shifter so it will be easy to modify the center console to allow the shifter to come through the floor right in front of/next to the parking brake.

-I can use two np231 rear yokes in place of the d300 yokes to use the stock CV style driveshafts.

-I measured out the length of the Klune V plus adapter plus support ring plate to be 7.5". The length of my 231 from transmission face to flat half of rear yoke is 16.25". Supposedly the length of a standard d300 is 11.5", meaning my setup will be 19" (2.75" longer than stock). Previously the rear driveline distance was 33" flat face to flat face of the yokes. With the new setup, I should be at about 30", so the stock front driveline which is 29-34" (collapsed/extended) should work in the rear. Hopefully I can just use my custom rear driveshaft in the front.

-I will have to retap/plug holes for the d300 drain plug and breather and install an oil sight tube.

Timeline-Ideally I would like have the Klune V and D300 case installed by the 18th to go wheeling

Let me know what you guys think and if I am missing anything. Thanks!

Last edited by gvns8; 02-04-2012 at 08:21 AM.
Old 02-05-2012, 11:53 AM
  #250  
CF Veteran
 
Unleashed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SoCal, San Fernando
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

That seams like a lot of work, wouldn't it be easier to just fix the problem in your 231 and put 4-1 ratio?
Old 02-05-2012, 09:58 PM
  #251  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

Originally Posted by Unleashed
That seams like a lot of work, wouldn't it be easier to just fix the problem in your 231 and put 4-1 ratio?
Here are the other choices I considered:

241 rubicon case: $1550 total
-people want like $1200 for these used
-add in $150 for a rebuild kit
-add $200 for the speedometer signal converter

Teralow 4:1 kit: $1500 total
(go for $1350 now) and rebuild kit ($150)

231 crawlbox mated to flipped 300: $1300 total
-$550 crawlbox kit +new planetary gears $70+ $325 sticks+ $80 clockring+$75 aluminum welding at shop+$300 Dana 300 w/rebuild kit - reselling my sye ($100)

Klune v with flipped 300: $1525 total
$1000 klune v + $300 d300 w/rebuild kit+ $325 twin sticks-reselling my sye ($100)

There are way too many people I know personally who have had major problems with teralow 4:1 kits so I don't want the teralow. So amongst the other options I considered, the 241 was not as functional as the crawlbox or klune and cost about the same. I would like to keep 2.72 gearing for some wheelspin on some of the trails out here in texas and have a deep gear to do more technical rocks. So for about the same price as the teralow or 241or I could do the 231 crawlbox with dana 300. However I have had to fix my 231 case probably 6 times and replaced nearly everything in the case so I would prefer to not use any parts from a 231. That's why I jumped on the Klune V option when I found mine used for half price.

Last edited by gvns8; 02-05-2012 at 10:41 PM.
Old 02-05-2012, 10:41 PM
  #252  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

As far as the work it takes, I would rather do this once and not have to worry about things again like breaking a teralow kit. Work involved was also a consideration when buying the klune instead of building a crawlbox. Really the hardest part was doing all the research which is why i gave all the detailed info above to help others in the future know what is involved in this setup. Now I just need to bolt everything in there and cut two minor holes in the floor for the shifter and shifter cables and I will be good to go. okay I'll admit I might be doing a little bit of this during the install
Old 02-07-2012, 05:08 PM
  #253  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
gvns8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
Default

I finally finished installing my hood vents today. They turned out great.

Here is me getting the corners started Saturday:



My dremel wasn't working too quickly so took the day off and when wheeling:



Then I went to the base auto shop and cut the hood out Sunday with a cutoff wheel:



And I finished drilling/riveting the vents in today. They look sweet:









I also have a couple other pictures I never posted:

-Here is my Klune V waiting to be installed:



-I also never mentioned that when I had the long arm brackets welded on, I also had them weld on the the track bar mount. No more loose bolts for me :



And here's one last picture just for the heck of it:

Old 02-07-2012, 05:10 PM
  #254  
CF Veteran
 
Gorillaxj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Looking good man!
Old 02-07-2012, 05:15 PM
  #255  
Senior Member
 
martyinco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Nice vents! What are they off of?


Quick Reply: Almost There: 01’ XJ Build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:52 PM.