scbrooks87

Well, front end is mostly done. Gotta put sway bar links on tomorrow and torque all the bolts. Also gotta get the axle centered and the steering wheel centered as well.

I made a rookie mistake and left the keys in the ignition to keep the steering wheel lock off. When I went to start it the battery had died. I jumped it but it would stay running without my foot on the gas... any ideas? Maybe just need to let the battery charge for a bit?

docmedpros

Yeah probably super dead. also check serpentine belt tension. Could be too loose and not getting enough juice from the alternator.

scbrooks87

Well the batt was definitely dead, charged it up a bit and it turned over without dying.

Couple issues I need to resolve: Need to contact Metalcloak about the swaybar links, the kit was missing the brackets that connect the links to the body when disconnected from the axle. Next, I need to see if they will sell me a new upper control arm bolt and nut, I stripped one when I was torquing it to the suggested specs on the instructions. I don't know if it was my fault, maybe I don't need to torque those down as hard? The instructions said 85 lbs torque, but I don't think I was even close to that when it stripped, suggestions?

I'll post all my pics when I finish the rear end next weekend, so please be patient folks!

abodyjoe

cool thread

docmedpros

I've always torqued in increments. Sine they are supposed to be 85ftlbs I would start with 60-70ftlbs then go up to 85ftlbs

scbrooks87

Thanks!

scbrooks87

That's a good idea! I actually did a little searching online, and found that the torque specs for the factory UCA bolts are 55 lbs for the front bolt and 66 lbs for the rear bolt. I called Metalcloak, and they said the bolts they provide are just 10mm direct replacements for the factory bolts, so it sounds to me I should torque to factor bolt settings.


Learn something new every day right!?

docmedpros

Glad you are making progress!

scbrooks87

Me too! I'm exciting to jump into the lift on the back end. I'm hopeful that I'll be able to accomplish the entire rear end lift in one weekend, but we shall see I suppose.


Hey you know I had one other issue that came up... I was trying to put the u-joints into the driveshaft that I'll be putting into the back, but one of the little clips just won't go in. I have tried everything to get the clip in but can't get the u-joint to compress enough to get the little brass clip to seat all the way down. Could it be that the clip is just too thick? I'm using the thinnest ones that came with the joint.


Thanks!

docmedpros

Make sure the lip is free of all debris. If you have just a little too much build up in that race, the clip won't seat properly.

HS00XJ

make sure there are no needles out of place, too much grease in the joint and the cap wont fully seat , bent ears ?, and ive also heard of people turning the joint 90 % ( evidently some joints are longer on one side than the other )

scbrooks87

Ok that helps, thank you. I'll definitely make sure to clean out the little lip in there to be sure no debris is preventing it from seating right. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the darn thing out and turn it 90 to see if that works better, and then if that doesn't work I may just throw the entire thing at a wall and call it a day =P

docmedpros

I like the wall idea! +1 for short term solutions; long term problems

scbrooks87

Well when you put it that way...

In reality, if I can't get it to stay in, I may take a look at prying open the ears of the yoke assembly just a hair to make the difference. By using a vice to do all this work, I suppose it's possible I squished the assembly a bit, making it a few thousandths of an inch too narrow.

docmedpros

My jeeps steering box is slowly dying... and I lost all power to overtake. So at least your problem is minimal and easily fixed. I have a long day ahead of me tomorrow