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Hay-ooooh! We were just approved to be a WARN dealer! And I just received a fat stack of stickers for the retail showroom. Here's the thing, I don't work in our retail showroom, I work on the website.
So I'm going to do something internet-related with these stickers, like give them away. (I'll put one under my hood, it'll be my first sticker.)
WARN Stickers! (Who wants one?)
Seriously, PM me and I'll send you one. I think. I wonder what is the cheapest stamp I could use to send this. Postcard? I'll consult my local letter carrier.
Finally - cleaned out garage to make room for workin' on the Jeep.
Short Version: I'll type more later.
I need ball joints, so I jacked up the front end to see about removing hubs. I broke loose the three hub bolts on the driver's side, but did not remove them. I still need to purchase a 36mm socket to break the axle nut loose.
I also removed the tie-rod ends from both steering knuckles, and tried to remove the sway bar, but the body mount bolts wouldn't budge. My 15mm kept trying to slip off of the bolt head.
I'll come back through and add captions and more info.
Hobby Vehicles So I like classy rides that have character. So what?
UK and USA Friends for life?
Hood Guard Still need to remove this.
Any suggestions? I'm thinking wait for a warm, sunny day and cut it off with fishing line. Follow up with Goo-gone or similar.
Dust Shield Covered in disintegrating black paint/film
Finally - cleaned out garage to make room for workin' on the Jeep.
Hood Guard Still need to remove this.
Any suggestions? I'm thinking wait for a warm, sunny day and cut it off with fishing line. Follow up with Goo-gone or similar.
THOSE BALL JOINTS!!!
yeah.. use heat. the sun could work. I used a heat gun and than Goo-gone and you cant even tell anything was there. I did my side molding this way.
My Dad had a Raleigh mountain bike that he handed down to me for my first adult-size bike.... HEEEEAAAAVVVYYYYYYY bike lol
It's not bad - prolly lighter than any full-size mountain bike you'd buy at Kmart today. Plus, it's classy as hell.
I'm replacing the chromed steel wheels with alloy ones. Steel bicycle wheels are heavy (obv), and the chrome finish is too slick when wet, so it doesn't like to stop in the rain. And I'll need good brakes - I'm also installing a child carrier to the front for my 1yo.
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 03-28-2017 at 01:02 PM.
Reason: Added additional awesomeness.
It's not bad - prolly lighter than any full-size mountain bike you'd buy at Kmart today. Plus, it's classy as hell.
I'm replacing the chromed steel wheels with alloy ones. Steel bicycle wheels are heavy (obv), and the chrome finish is too slick when wet, so it doesn't like to stop in the rain. And I'll need good brakes - I'm also installing a child carrier to the front for my 1yo.
Depends on the alloy. The Raleigh I had was ridiculously heavy. The bike I got to replace it was a Gary Fisher Aquila - full Chromoly frame, aluminum rims and components. Wasn't quite "pinky curl" status, but it was much lighter than the Raleigh. Then I stepped up to a GF Montaire which is aluminum and quite a bit lighter. Now I've got an older model GT iDrive full suspension with the thin-tube aluminum.... that one you can pinky curl all day. I'm waiting on the seatpost/shockmount to be repaired though before I can ride it again.
Depends on the alloy. The Raleigh I had was ridiculously heavy. The bike I got to replace it was a Gary Fisher Aquila - full Chromoly frame, aluminum rims and components. Wasn't quite "pinky curl" status, but it was much lighter than the Raleigh. Then I stepped up to a GF Montaire which is aluminum and quite a bit lighter. Now I've got an older model GT iDrive full suspension with the thin-tube aluminum.... that one you can pinky curl all day. I'm waiting on the seatpost/shockmount to be repaired though before I can ride it again.
I have another Nottingham Raleigh from the early 70's that I turned into a single speed (cheapo/dumpster version, not cool/Hipster version.) I LOVE the thin-tube steel frame - it flexes under me like a suspension. I replaced the front 27" Chrome/Steel wheel with a 700c Alloy one. I needed to install front brakes with longer arms. Or shorter arms. Whichever is appropriate to go from 27" to 700C.
(Some Background Info: Raleigh bicycles are a British brand, and since 1885 the bicycles were manufactured in the Raleigh factory in Nottingham, England. Starting in 1982 the name was licensed to Huffy USA, and all of the Raleigh bicycles for the US market were produced somewhere in Asia. These bicycles have a front badge that says Raleigh U.S.A.)
(More Info: I'm not a bicycle historian. If you have better/more detailed info then paste it here. DO NOT just copy and paste something from Wikipedia. Do the work to Rewrite/paraphrase it, like I did.)
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 03-28-2017 at 03:53 PM.
Good to know, man! I didn't realize you were talking about road bikes. Mine was a mountain bike... and you guessed it, "RUFFY" USA.... so it was stupid heavy.
Another fun fact for you, ever since Schwinn made it into Target and KMart, they've been produced in China by Pacific Bicycles. So if you ever get your hands on a made in USA Schwinn..... HOLD ON TO IT AND RUN!!!!!
Gary Fisher and Trek are (well, USED to be) made by the same company. So if you're buying one because you don't like something about the other, chances are, you just screwed yourself.
GIANT was, and still is, one of the largest frame manufacturers in the world. So if you buy one of their bikes, you know that they built the frame in their factory, instead of a major manufacturer's frame made to their specs and painted the way they want it.
Parts:
- HD Ball Joints - Crown RT21003 (order through work)
- Hub/Knuckle Bolts x 6 - add bolt details here - from Ace Hardware
Tools:
- Ball Joint Press (rent from wherever)
- Sockets for Ball Joint nuts (I have read a bunch of different sizes online.)
- Upper might be a 7/8
- Lower might be a 32
Axle Nut, Brake Notches in Steering Knuckle, and Welder Advice
Received 36mm Axle Nut from Amazon (and a guitar wall mount, and a new screen for my iphone 5s.)
36mm Socket for XJ Cherokee Axle Nut
Also, some guy on the YouTube pointed out that my brake pads have worn notches in the steering knuckles. Well, on the driver's side, at least. I haven't disassembled the passenger side yet.
Worn Steering Knuckle Brake pads wore a notch in the steering knuckle.
The photo above is a still from my YouTube video.I haven't been out to the garage today to really inspect and get better photos.
Some quick reading says that some people weld a bead in/on there, then grind it smooth. Fill in the void, then smooth it back over. Sounds valid.
Some folks suggest visiting a local wrecking yard to pick up another set of knuckles.
New knuckles are about $100, each. I can get them for barely, barely cheaper if I order direct from Crown, but then I have to pay shipping. So it's a toss up, really. Six of one...
New Knuckles Affordable? Yes, sort of. Cost more than the Jeep? Yes, big time. Worth it? Idk.
So, new knuckles are like $200. But I think I can get a cheap welder for that much, then fix my knuckles AND have a welder. Yes?
I see welders for $200 or less, but; A) I know nothing about welding, B) I'm looking at the cheapest welders available, 3) I know nothing about welding.
Cheap Welders from HF Would one of these li'l bastards get the job done? (plus my 2 x 6 rockers, later?)
I'm not looking for a precision welder, or anything fancy. I need something that's going to be easy for an amateur to pick up and run with. I don't care if I make fat, ugly welds - as long as they are strong.
What were the guys in shop class using back in high school? With the rod? I think it's called stick welding. I'll read about welding and welders and get back to you.
Crown Automotive - I could build a whole nother Jeep...
** DISCLAIMER: I work for a truck accessory place, on the website. I have no affiliation with Crown Automotive, and I have no personal opinion for or against them.**
Holy ****, you guys. I'm working on the data to add Crown Automotive to our website - they have like EVERYTHING. Except for the structural unibody shell of the Cherokee - I could build a whole new Cherokee with this stuff.
Retaining clips, fuses, adjustment nuts, every single screw and bolt on the damn Jeep. Pistons, bearings, intake and exhaust valves.
For the record, I prefer to find my parts here, at a wrecking yard.
Wish we still had some decent yards around here. Seems a few years back when prices were up most got bout entirely cleaned out.
There are barely any decent yards around here. I'm trying to find them and explore them.
There are plenty of Pull-a-Parts around here, but I don't want to go there. I wanna go to a real junkyard, a wrecking yard. Muddy piles of cars, just waiting for me to explore.
03-23-2017, 09:10 AM
WARN me next time, will ya?
