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I should also say that Cruiser was a very helpful sounding board for chasing this down - thank you! Many a private message was exchanged.
Tip 3 - Not completely - I've done the plug behind the drivers headlight, the 2 tranny connectors and various others as I've come in contact with them. Need to dedicate some time to systematically working through the engine bay.
Tsk tsk. Had you performed Tip 3 initially, you coulda saved yourself some trouble....LOL.
Whole engine bay of connectors can be done in 30 minutes.
I feel like I'm sitting through an electronic diagnosis class reading through this. Hats off to your sir, very nice diag work. As far as back-probing goes, use a paper clip so you dont blow connectors apart lol. There are also these awesome things called "T-Pins" that knitters/sewers use. They're excellent for probing and sturdy!
Check em out. granted, you don't need THIS many but they're handy for electrical work. Usually keep one in my hat brim.
Let's play the death wobble game. Earlier in this thread (many, many years ago) I had experienced DW and had replaced all of the steering components, as they were all shot. Well, since taking this guy back into DD status, it had done well until late last week when the dreaded DW shook things up.
No worries, I've cracked this nut before. Using this diagnostic checklist, it's pretty easy.
With my buddy turning the wheel, I could clearly see the track bar moving about 1/2" side to side in relation to the bolt that was supposed to keep the bushing tight to the axle. Easy.
Using large channel locks, I checked all the TREs. The drag link TRE at the passenger knuckle showed not insignificant play up and down. Easy.
You can kind of see the damage to the track bar bushing.
Frame side of the track bar.
Something doesn't look right....
Hole isn't wallowed out - good news.
This is the washer for the bolt through the track bar bushing. It saw quite a load, eh?
This is the bolt - as I was tightening it, something felt wrong, so I backed it out. My guess is that the DW really stressed the bolt and it couldn't take another torquing.
I chased the threads in the nut, but they still looked off, so I decided not to try to torque into it. Off to Lowes to buy a new grade 8 bolt, washer and nut. (Home Depot's fastener selection never ceases to disappoint....)
Since you don't have the bracket to hold the nut in place, you've got to get your wrench in there like this.
Knuckle side of the drag link.
Pitman arm side. I should have replaced this joint just because, but the replacement I purchase from O'Reilly was misboxed and I had to reinstall this one.
Test driving after this was like driving a whole new jeep. The wheel used to turn from 10 to 2 before the heep would start turning. Now, the jeep jumps when I say jump! Super cool
Using a .250-inch diameter grade 8 fastener gives you the following shear capability:
A = Cross-sectional area of the fastener size (since bolt bodies/shanks have circular cross-sections, use area of a circle) = Pi x r2 where R (radius) = .250/2 = .125, therefore A = Pi x (.125)2 = .0491 square inches (in2)
Capability in shear = 91,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 4468 lbs
Using the same .250-inch diameter grade 5 fastener results in the following:
Capability in shear = 75,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 3683 lbs
This.
Good examples, but you cut out the relevant (technical) part: by definition, Grade 5 bolts have a tensile strength of 120ksi and Grade 8 have a tensile strength 150ksi. Shear strength is usually ~60% of tensile strength.
This shows that, by definition, Grade 8 will always be stronger than Grade 5 in both tension and shear.
08-19-2016, 08:50 AM
