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Go for long arms...if you're going at least 4" of lift your DD comfort level will increase dramatically.
What kit would you suggest?
I drove it around for a day before I took the engine out and the ride quality was "OK", I could definitely live with it for a bit.
Mostly I am concerned with how much time I will add to the build by doing the long arm stuff now,,, but welding the lower mounts back on takes fab time too.....
I think I am talking myself into the long arm stuff....haven't had time to look into those enough to make a decision,,,leaning toward Iron Rock at this point,,,,,
I have a used Iron rock kit(got it for a smoking deal). I like it. I am getting some vibrations from the UCA mount on the axle, but its just old and needs replaced. If i purchased new I would personally get a Clayton kit.
A/C progress,,,well at least a pile of really good parts!!
Picked up some stuff from CL.
I got all the A/C stuff out of an 87 parts car in Campo about (30 miles away),,got everything pretty cheap too,, I got the entire A/C unit from under the dash with a blower motor, the controls ALL the wiring harness under the dash, the fuse panel and the wiring harness to the a/c under the hood and all the little related brackets, dryer, relays, and the compressor off the motor,,,,learned a lot too by doing the work of removing the unit from under dash,,,just hope I do not forget how it goes back together by the time I install it in my project (took a few pics, but thinking back not enough)
,,,Then I got a 5000lb receiver trailer hitch with the electrical coupler/wiring, the rear wiper motor, the emergency brake cable and handle assembly, a good straight non rusted rear bumper, a rear view mirror, a roof rack(factory stainless rails) and some other misc. stuff,, I got all that for 150 bucks!!
My plan is evolving ,,,, I seem to be making the uni-body structure around the engine into a "Battering Ram".
Cut out a cardboard template.
Thinking about tying in the roll cage into boxed frame by following the fender and spring support up at an angle, then turn it toward the firewall.
2nd layer is .095 bent on a Brake and then fabbed to fit over the first plate,,leaving room to access the factory weld nuts in case I decide to use them on motor mounts or other brackets.
Angle brace is in place to keep everything from moving during fabrication
The inside of the uni-body "frame" gets 3/16's plate (between the steering box and the mounting surface) and then the outside of the frame gets the 1/8 inch plate from the Smittybilt bumper brackets.
Last edited by GRAYMAN SPOTTER; 03-26-2015 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: details
This shows several layers, first 11 gauge flat plate, Then layered in the steering box area 1/4 plate, then 1/8 plate was bent on a brake and then shaped to fit over everthing, The retangular tubing in front was tied in the same way on the passenger side.
03-07-2015, 05:27 PM
