(MD) 4.0L engine (and swap work) needed ASAP

stormitecture · 11-16-2011, 08:40 PM

Looking for any and all information you can provide for sources, shops, etc. to get a motor and have it swapped out. I'm in Montgomery County, Maryland (DC area).

My 4.0L (2000 XJ Sport...with...yes, 0331 motor) is crap (well, pretty sure). I pretty much got scammed on my purchase (used always have risk, but dude just outright lied about things he did).

I don't have a garage, and home owners group pretty much makes it impossible to do any kind of work on the Jeep that makes it inoperable for more than 24 hours. I got away with some suspension work, but that was stretching it. I also haven't done a swap or engine rebuild myself, so the time to do it right is beyond the time I have (and risk too high). I may consider rebuilding the old block.

I need ASAP, because my business depends on me having this vehicle operating in just a few weeks (I need to travel to film severe weather and snow season is closing in fast).

I am hoping there is some options for less than $1500, but if necessary I can go higher. Beyond too much...might just have to Sell the jeep (not worth the work versus just buying new). I'm actually having to sell some business equipment to do this, so keep in mind I'm more on the money strapped side. But reliability is key.

I'm sure there are questions too, so I'll try to answer. Sorry for being obvious noob/idiot too.

Add: the Jeep is running and driving, kinda...working on the suspension. I haven't driving the thing more than 15 or 20 miles since buying it nor has it seen over 45mph. Front susp. done, rear to be done next week.

The Rooster · 11-16-2011, 10:09 PM

Whats wrong with the current motor?

stormitecture · 11-16-2011, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rooster

Whats wrong with the current motor?

oil on the spark plugs (which were brand new) led me to do a compression test...75psi on cylinder 1. I didn't go further. I'll do more checking, but not much else I'm assuming it could be. Probably bad rings.

pulltabmike · 11-17-2011, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeatherWarrior

oil on the spark plugs (which were brand new) led me to do a compression test...75psi on cylinder 1. I didn't go further. I'll do more checking, but not much else I'm assuming it could be. Probably bad rings.

If you can get a motor, and get it up to Harford county I may have a place you/we can work on it. Plan on 2 days for a swap (If I help it would have to be around my schedule, I have guys in line for welding work at the moment). Only other option with the compression reading that you have is a full rebuild (will be down even longer if you send block/heads to machine shop).
That is why I will never live anywhere with a homeowners association. Nobody 's gonna tell me I cannot work on my vehicle on my property....

1988cherokee · 11-17-2011, 06:00 PM

does it smoke real bad when you start it? Do a compression check on all of the cylinders and not to be an *** but are you sure you did the compression check right? The other thing I would do is get a hold of a leak down kit and go through each clylinder and see if and where you might have a leak if you dont know what or how to use a leak down kit I can PM you detailed instructions

daniejw · 11-20-2011, 02:13 AM

That sucks man!!! I too have a 2000 xj with the "0311" head and sure enough mine cracked right down the middle. Fortunately, I caught it early and was able to swap it out the a remanufactured one. However, I did everything myself. The motor it a little noisier than normal, but still has great oil pressure and runs strong. Good luck to you though.

stormitecture · 11-21-2011, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pulltabmike

That is why I will never live anywhere with a homeowners association. Nobody 's gonna tell me I cannot work on my vehicle on my property....

Yeah...I'm not making that mistake again. I'll live in a commercial shop before I do an HOA. In my case however it was more of a non-option. There were no other homes at the low price that were NOT HOA. It's Montgomery County, and there were only so many places to choose from for under $100k in the Mid-90s.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1988cherokee

does it smoke real bad when you start it? Do a compression check on all of the cylinders and not to be an *** but are you sure you did the compression check right? The other thing I would do is get a hold of a leak down kit and go through each clylinder and see if and where you might have a leak if you dont know what or how to use a leak down kit I can PM you detailed instructions

Nah...in my case it is a legitimate point to ask if I did it right. It is possible I didn't. I've not used a tester with this type of ignition system (use to wires and plugs, not a rail system). I will double check everything for committing to the new motor.

It actually doesn't smoke bad, but it does smoke (especially at start-up...but that's typical).

I have not done a leak down, but and should, and will! PM instructions would be great. Or if there is a good thread. There is so much I'm doing, hard to track down all the good threads here and on JeepForums.com (although I am starting to index them on my webpage for others later).

I just want to get the ball rolling. One thing I'm doing today is checking Jasper. I'm sure they are crazy high price, but need to check. There is also some reman. motor advertising on eBay in Brandywine, MD (of course...locals know what I mean). $2200 for that. I might do one of those options since there is a warranty with it (just parts of course). However, that would aid in keeping some value in the Jeep and reliability which would be hugely key for me).

Thanks for the replies all.

stormitecture · 11-22-2011, 08:20 PM

Did a check on Jasper, and got a $2554 price plus a ton of other stuff (see below). Not sure what all is included, will be following up on that either tomorrow (Wed.) or next week after the Thanksgiving holiday.

Quote:

1988cherokee · 11-23-2011, 05:17 PM

I can get a reman engine with a 3yr 36,00 mile warrenty for like $1900 through the company I deal with so if I were you I wouldnt get one from them Id keep looking. Their engines arent that bad but their transmissions that they do are junk. On a plus you can have any shop that deals with jasper do work on the engine if your out of town and it breaks

ok back to your engine now. When you did the compression test did you have your foot to the floor on the gas peddle and crank it about 6-8 times? The smoking is normal thats just some oil getting past the valve seals. If your rings were shot it would smoke a lot at start up and when you drive it down the roads it would leave nice smoke clouds behind

stormitecture · 11-27-2011, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1988cherokee

I can get a reman engine with a 3yr 36,00 mile warrenty for like $1900 through the company I deal with so if I were you I wouldnt get one from them Id keep looking. Their engines arent that bad but their transmissions that they do are junk. On a plus you can have any shop that deals with jasper do work on the engine if your out of town and it breaks

ok back to your engine now. When you did the compression test did you have your foot to the floor on the gas peddle and crank it about 6-8 times? The smoking is normal thats just some oil getting past the valve seals. If your rings were shot it would smoke a lot at start up and when you drive it down the roads it would leave nice smoke clouds behind

Yeah...Jasper was just a reference. I'd probably go for something different.

When I did the compression check...I can't remember if I had the pedal to the floor or not (or if I even touched the gas pedal). I did crank it a lot. Did it a few times starting with just a few times, then a ton.

stormitecture · 11-27-2011, 01:01 AM

I'm also wondering (and yes...I'll do the seach) if I can use a 2004 motor. I see one for sale with 64,000 miles for $1500 (which seems high, but see if they are neg.).

stormitecture · 12-08-2011, 01:51 PM

Starting to pull parts of my Triumph Spitfire to help fund the motor buy. But any more discussion, tips, hints is always appreciated. I'm still leaning toward buying a rebuilt motor, but wondering if I can pull the oil pan (which is kinda bent and should be replaced anyway) to look at the bearings and such at the bottom of the motor. I think I can use a simple feeler gauge (along with a visual inspection) to see the health of the motor. I may have to drive it to the DIY place in VA though. Not sure I want to do that in the parking lot in the cold.

stormitecture · 01-04-2012, 05:51 AM

Still looking for motor and swap help. I almost bought a 92, but didn't realize there is a bit of difference that I'd rather not deal with.

BODCherokee · 01-06-2012, 10:28 AM

depending on how far you want to go with this jeep. titanengines.com sells a very well done 4.6/4.7 liter stroker motor. Sells for like $2,800. Costs like $2500 to build a stroker by yourself. These I6's are the easiest engine's i've ever worked on. Very easy to swap them on your own. If you'd like to tackle it yourself, i'd call around to a few local shops and see if they will let you rent time in thier shop. You dont need a lift, just a crane.

stormitecture · 06-29-2012, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BODCherokee

depending on how far you want to go with this jeep. titanengines.com sells a very well done 4.6/4.7 liter stroker motor. Sells for like $2,800. Costs like $2500 to build a stroker by yourself. These I6's are the easiest engine's i've ever worked on. Very easy to swap them on your own. If you'd like to tackle it yourself, i'd call around to a few local shops and see if they will let you rent time in thier shop. You dont need a lift, just a crane.

I don't want to go that route. I just need something/someone to fix the issue for reasonable cost. I like the idea of the 4.0L vs. bigger engine due to the MPGs. I would love to keep it AOA 22mpg. That is why I don't have and will not go with a bigger lift than 3" and 31" tires.

11-16-2011, 10:09 PM	#2
The Rooster CF Veteran 1990 American Motors Cherokee Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A. Posts: 3,026 My Photos 1990 Laredo Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: Selec-Trac Front Axle: Dana Rear Axle: Dana Tires: 30x9.50x15 Lift Specifications: No lift Misc Accessories: Laredo	Whats wrong with the current motor? __________________ 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Renix 4.0 All Stock org. I seem to have a lot of Shiney Chrome on my Jeep am I Alone... R.I.P. 96_XJ Make your Renix Jeep "Cruiser54 Certifed" Click the link below (Fixes most(87-90) Renix Jeep problems) http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cru...x-tips-153657/

11-17-2011, 06:00 PM	#5
1988cherokee Seasoned Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Lancaster PA Posts: 285 My Photos 1988 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: dana 30 Rear Axle: dana 35 Tires: 31x10.5x15 general grabber at2s Lift Specifications: 4.5 front 5 rear Misc Accessories: homemade roof rack	does it smoke real bad when you start it? Do a compression check on all of the cylinders and not to be an *** but are you sure you did the compression check right? The other thing I would do is get a hold of a leak down kit and go through each clylinder and see if and where you might have a leak if you dont know what or how to use a leak down kit I can PM you detailed instructions Last edited by 1988cherokee; 11-18-2011 at 06:37 AM. Reason: added more info

11-27-2011, 01:01 AM	#11
stormitecture Senior Member 2000 Jeep Cherokee Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 634 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L I6 Transmission: Automatic Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 35 I think Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31"x10.5 Def. Dakota AT2 (as of Dec. 2011) Lift Specifications: 3" Rough Country Series II Misc Accessories: filming and storm chasing vehicle. Cameras, laptops, GPS, etc.	I'm also wondering (and yes...I'll do the seach) if I can use a 2004 motor. I see one for sale with 64,000 miles for $1500 (which seems high, but see if they are neg.). __________________ Formerly "WeatherWarrior" (username changed Jan.2013) Cherokee of the Month Index thread. Draft: JK bumper mod (for XJ) thread. Website: http://www.stormitecture.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/stormitecture Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/stormitecture My Jeep webpage full of details, pictures, information, links, etc: http://www.weatherwarrior.net/chaser/vehicle_2000Jeep.html

12-08-2011, 01:51 PM	#12
stormitecture Senior Member 2000 Jeep Cherokee Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 634 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L I6 Transmission: Automatic Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 35 I think Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31"x10.5 Def. Dakota AT2 (as of Dec. 2011) Lift Specifications: 3" Rough Country Series II Misc Accessories: filming and storm chasing vehicle. Cameras, laptops, GPS, etc.	Starting to pull parts of my Triumph Spitfire to help fund the motor buy. But any more discussion, tips, hints is always appreciated. I'm still leaning toward buying a rebuilt motor, but wondering if I can pull the oil pan (which is kinda bent and should be replaced anyway) to look at the bearings and such at the bottom of the motor. I think I can use a simple feeler gauge (along with a visual inspection) to see the health of the motor. I may have to drive it to the DIY place in VA though. Not sure I want to do that in the parking lot in the cold. __________________ Formerly "WeatherWarrior" (username changed Jan.2013) Cherokee of the Month Index thread. Draft: JK bumper mod (for XJ) thread. Website: http://www.stormitecture.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/stormitecture Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/stormitecture My Jeep webpage full of details, pictures, information, links, etc: http://www.weatherwarrior.net/chaser/vehicle_2000Jeep.html

01-04-2012, 05:51 AM	#13
stormitecture Senior Member 2000 Jeep Cherokee Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland Posts: 634 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L I6 Transmission: Automatic Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 35 I think Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31"x10.5 Def. Dakota AT2 (as of Dec. 2011) Lift Specifications: 3" Rough Country Series II Misc Accessories: filming and storm chasing vehicle. Cameras, laptops, GPS, etc.	Still looking for motor and swap help. I almost bought a 92, but didn't realize there is a bit of difference that I'd rather not deal with. __________________ Formerly "WeatherWarrior" (username changed Jan.2013) Cherokee of the Month Index thread. Draft: JK bumper mod (for XJ) thread. Website: http://www.stormitecture.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/stormitecture Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/stormitecture My Jeep webpage full of details, pictures, information, links, etc: http://www.weatherwarrior.net/chaser/vehicle_2000Jeep.html

11-20-2011, 02:13 AM	#6
daniejw Newbie Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 15 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31's On Rubi Moabs Lift Specifications: 3" RC Full Spring	That sucks man!!! I too have a 2000 xj with the "0311" head and sure enough mine cracked right down the middle. Fortunately, I caught it early and was able to swap it out the a remanufactured one. However, I did everything myself. The motor it a little noisier than normal, but still has great oil pressure and runs strong. Good luck to you though.

11-23-2011, 05:17 PM	#9
1988cherokee Seasoned Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Lancaster PA Posts: 285 My Photos 1988 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: dana 30 Rear Axle: dana 35 Tires: 31x10.5x15 general grabber at2s Lift Specifications: 4.5 front 5 rear Misc Accessories: homemade roof rack	I can get a reman engine with a 3yr 36,00 mile warrenty for like $1900 through the company I deal with so if I were you I wouldnt get one from them Id keep looking. Their engines arent that bad but their transmissions that they do are junk. On a plus you can have any shop that deals with jasper do work on the engine if your out of town and it breaks ok back to your engine now. When you did the compression test did you have your foot to the floor on the gas peddle and crank it about 6-8 times? The smoking is normal thats just some oil getting past the valve seals. If your rings were shot it would smoke a lot at start up and when you drive it down the roads it would leave nice smoke clouds behind

01-06-2012, 10:28 AM	#14
BODCherokee Seasoned Member 1993 Jeep Cherokee Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Springfield, MA Posts: 372 My Photos 1993 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: Auto Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Stock D30 Rear Axle: Stock D35 Tires: Mastercraft courser A/T2 with american racing offset rims Lift Specifications: rusty's 3.5" coils and pro comp 3.5" leafs Misc Accessories: to many to list	depending on how far you want to go with this jeep. titanengines.com sells a very well done 4.6/4.7 liter stroker motor. Sells for like $2,800. Costs like $2500 to build a stroker by yourself. These I6's are the easiest engine's i've ever worked on. Very easy to swap them on your own. If you'd like to tackle it yourself, i'd call around to a few local shops and see if they will let you rent time in thier shop. You dont need a lift, just a crane.

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06-29-2012, 01:55 PM