Any Georgians?
05-09-2015, 08:02 AM
#9376
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Location: Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6
Yes. You should remove the head in the reverse order of the torqueing sequence.
With the intake and exhaust manifold off you can access the 5 plugs down the side of the block very easily. Takes about 5 minutes to replace them. There's 2 more. 1 on the back of the head (That can replace while the head is off) and one more inside the bell housing. You'd have to remove the transmission or engine to get to that one. (Everything one of those I've ever seen looked brand new. I wouldn't worry about that one.)
With the intake and exhaust manifold off you can access the 5 plugs down the side of the block very easily. Takes about 5 minutes to replace them. There's 2 more. 1 on the back of the head (That can replace while the head is off) and one more inside the bell housing. You'd have to remove the transmission or engine to get to that one. (Everything one of those I've ever seen looked brand new. I wouldn't worry about that one.)
05-09-2015, 10:31 AM
#9377
Junior Member
thanks that clears up a lot , sounds like you know your stuff I have another question hope I'm not getting annoying when I crank the Jeep even after its already been warmed up until about 4 minutes of running if I really romp on it and get the RPM's above 15ooo there is a rattling sound my oil pressure sits at about 13 minimum on hot idle Jeep runs great otherwise any ideas after about 4 minutes of running and taking it easy I can romp on it and no rattle at all which I try not to do very often
2. 15,000 RPM's holy ****. I'm sure you meant 1,500 rpm. lol.
3. That makes zero sense. I would say that because the engine is cold you weren't getting oil to the top end but if it does it even with the engine is warm then Idk.
05-09-2015, 01:58 PM
#9378
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6
1. Yes, you're annoying. I'm kidding. You're fine.
2. 15,000 RPM's holy ****. I'm sure you meant 1,500 rpm. lol.
3. That makes zero sense. I would say that because the engine is cold you weren't getting oil to the top end but if it does it even with the engine is warm then Idk.
2. 15,000 RPM's holy ****. I'm sure you meant 1,500 rpm. lol.
3. That makes zero sense. I would say that because the engine is cold you weren't getting oil to the top end but if it does it even with the engine is warm then Idk.
05-10-2015, 01:53 PM
#9379
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Model: Cherokee
hey boy and girls . names josh, and I'm from covington. I got a 94 xj 2 door sitting on a 6.5 long arm and 35s. Got locker front and back and 4.56 gears.
I just bought a 4bt cummins and a set of dana 60s. anyone know of a good write up on the swaps
or is anyone looking for 5 rubicon wheels
I just bought a 4bt cummins and a set of dana 60s. anyone know of a good write up on the swaps
or is anyone looking for 5 rubicon wheels
05-30-2015, 09:43 PM
#9386
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Location: Bowdon Ga
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm trying to get a few people to go riding at choccolocco mountain in Jacksonville Al next Saturday if anyone is interested in going.
06-08-2015, 08:16 PM
#9387
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Guess who's back? and jumping on the xj with a frame band wagon because it's gonna be cheaper easier and stronger to finish my 1 ton cherocar than buying stiffeners and playing the unibody and all that bull****.
06-09-2015, 07:08 AM
#9388
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06-09-2015, 08:35 AM
#9390
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
The motor trans and t case are coming out today, and the rails are getting chopped this week. Ive already got half of the tube because I was just gonna back half it, but I've been worried about it breaking where the back half ties into the rails. Link mounts and shock hoops will be so much easier on a tube frame too. I see no reason not to, but, I value your opinion. If you have a legitimate reason I may reconsider