Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona
View Poll Results: cage or link rear
Cage (Hybrid)
15
88.24%
Link rear
2
11.76%
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll

cage or link rear

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Old 01-17-2012, 10:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Jeepfreak1020
Is he on this forum? Does he have a build thread??
He is the for sale section Moderator, and he does indeed have a build thread.

And Brad is correct, he is using HREW. I discussed this with him when I planned my cage.
Old 01-20-2012, 11:10 PM
  #32  
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you dont necessarily need to go all 1.75", u can use smaller diameter tubing for the triangulation/bracing/gusseting as long as you have a good cage design and welding technique...plus it could (potentially) save you a little bit of $$$
Old 01-21-2012, 02:55 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by XJSETH
Cage. Leafs are stable and provide plenty of flex. When I'd rather save up for coilovers and go link that way

Unless you're going to spend $1500 and up per coil over your not going to see any real preforance over a good shock/coil......I assume you know this .

That suzuki buggy's rear coil/shock set up at Spring Creek when I went with you was straight sucking next to my simple rear coil/shock his rear boucnced and did not plant traction where my set did easiy...Just saying .
Old 01-21-2012, 03:02 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 1tonxj


That suzuki buggy's rear coil/shock set up at Spring Creek when I went with you was straight sucking next to my simple rear coil/shock his rear boucnced and did not plant traction where my set did easiy...Just saying .
That would be the difference between some tossed together link system compared to one that someome actually planned out the geometry.
Old 01-21-2012, 03:05 PM
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And linking the rear isn't just about flex.

Hill climbs for me are MUCH more stable and planted now than they were on leafs.

Not to mention less unibody flexing ( I can open my doors and hatch easily when fully flexed) and zero wheel hop

Last edited by N20jeep; 01-21-2012 at 10:05 PM.
Old 01-21-2012, 03:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by N20jeep
That would be the difference between some tossed together link system compared to one that someome actually planned out the geometry.
Yes but the coils on a coilover do the same job as a coil without a shock sitting inside it and same for the shock ...The "potetial" benefits come from running multiple coils with different rates and fine tuning ,so if running 1rate coil you've done nothing more than put your shock in your coil ,as same performance would be had with basic coil/shock ... In other words a coilover shock is not doing anything differnt than coil/shock they are the same things just combined ...They do offer mounting/space benefits ,but unless running a very well thought out multi rate coil set up with time spent valving the shocks for your rig .......you have a fancy looking set up that does nothing fancy.

Last edited by 1tonxj; 01-21-2012 at 03:34 PM.
Old 01-21-2012, 03:33 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by N20jeep
And linking the rear isn't just about flex.

Hill climbs for me are MUCH more stable and panted now than they were on leafs.

Not to mention less unibody flexing ( I can open my doors and hatch easily when fully flexed) and zero wheel hop
X2...everyone seems to think linked rears are for flex only .
Old 01-22-2012, 04:33 PM
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I would cage it first, Interior is better IMO, the body helps slow it down rather then the tubing turning it into a bowling ball. But I have like the hybrid ideas with the halo outside with the rest inside, when done in a esthetically pleasing design.

Linked rear would be nice, no arguing that. but I haven't been in the situation to where I feel like its worth all the work... but that can be terrain also..
Old 01-22-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
The cage still works when driving to the trail. It doesn't just work off road.


Is your driving really that bad to warrant a cage on the way to the trail ...lol
Old 01-22-2012, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 1tonxj

Is your driving really that bad to warrant a cage on the way to the trail ...lol
Lol
Old 01-23-2012, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by codysalzbrunn
you dont necessarily need to go all 1.75", u can use smaller diameter tubing for the triangulation/bracing/gusseting as long as you have a good cage design and welding technique...plus it could (potentially) save you a little bit of $$$
It would only save you money if you have access to the other dies already. If you have to buy the dies, buy one and be done.
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