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No but in all reality, I've seen fully caged on one tons go for way less than 13k.
I'd find the next nicest one on Craigslist and keep the price in the area of what that one is going for!
No but in all reality, I've seen fully caged on one tons go for way less than 13k.
I'd find the next nicest one on Craigslist and keep the price in the area of what that one is going for!
Thanks for the advice. To be honest, I was following the advice of someone who I'm starting to realize doesn't know ****. They actually told me to list it even higher, but even 13k didn't feel right to me. If I wouldn't buy a used XJ at that price, why would anyone else?
Thanks for the advice. To be honest, I was following the advice of someone who I'm starting to realize doesn't know ****. They actually told me to list it even higher, but even 13k didn't feel right to me. If I wouldn't buy a used XJ at that price, why would anyone else?
You'll never get back what you have into it... labor you'll get 0% back... parts are pennies on the dollar... you'll have luck because it's clean, but not anywhere near 13k
About to put on a Rough Country 3" kit to a stock XJ I've had for about a year now. Any recommendations or tips? Their install video looks pretty straight forward but I always come across some hiccups.
About to put on a Rough Country 3" kit to a stock XJ I've had for about a year now. Any recommendations or tips? Their install video looks pretty straight forward but I always come across some hiccups.
Most of it depends on the shape of your rig. If it's rusty then it will be a fight the whole way. I hope you went with the full leaf and not the add a leaf. Some people need to do the transfer case drop where as others don't. If you got the kit without shocks then you will need rears.
Most of it depends on the shape of your rig. If it's rusty then it will be a fight the whole way. I hope you went with the full leaf and not the add a leaf. Some people need to do the transfer case drop where as others don't. If you got the kit without shocks then you will need rears.
No rust, should I should be OK as far as that goes. I was looking at the full leaf kit with shocks and control arms. Didn't see anything about a transfer case drop - any idea how to determine if I'll need one?
No rust, should I should be OK as far as that goes. I was looking at the full leaf kit with shocks and control arms. Didn't see anything about a transfer case drop - any idea how to determine if I'll need one?
No idea until the kit is on for the TC drop. Once the kit is on you can lift the rear by the axle and rotate the driveshaft to see if you are binding at the ujoints.
Also make sure the kit you get has the u-bolts that fit your rear axle. Most kits come with the dana 35 ubolts.
If no rust you should be ok. Recommend spraying everything with penetrating oil the day before you start.
Does anyone know of a decent shop around vegas that isnt going to cost an arm and a leg and make me provide my own bottle of KY?
I know shop costs arent cheap and i respect an honest mechanic, but calling around town seems that quite a few places are looking to bend you over your hood and charge you for it too.
I have a cylinder 1 misfire and have done the initial work with replacing things that needed replacing anyways like injectors, coil rail, fuel pump, gas cap, plugs.
I've noid tested the injector connector for pulse, and verified spark on the coil rail to cylinder 1 as well.
It's looking like its leaning towards exhaust valve as i smell fuel in the exhaust as well.
I would dig into it myself but will have no time to do so before I fly out of state for work, and i need to get it registered because my registration expired on the 16th of this month
11-22-2016, 09:42 AM
