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Its called a yoke, and the pinion seal is leaking. Pretty easy to change. As for the slip joint, grease it with the grease zerk, itll slide easier. Not sure what cap u are taking about
if i pump any grease it comes right out the back behind the u joint, there is a wall of grease behind there its a 1 inch opening filled with grease, perhaps sand got in threw the grease because the opening is so large.
it being so stiff has damaged the pinion seal and maybe the gears
i also need a rustys frame repair kit mig welded on i will have it prepped and drilled anyone can do it for fair price or recommend a shop in tacoma area. kent to gram is fine also
i found 3 more cracks haha
so i went ahead and bought a mig 135,
im looking for a shop to fix my drive line and pinion seal and maybe install a front lunch box locker
should i do the long trip to randys ring n pinion or is something closer to tacoma
at 4wheel parts they wanted 869$ to install a lunchbox locker on my rear axle it took me 15min and 250 for the lokka
on the front is different and the carrier needs to come out i think!
i cant find vids for the front install only the rear, maybe because its not diy easy
A front lunchbox box is super easy to install. You do pull out the carrier but it's no big deal. Pull it out install locker and bolt carrier back in. Takes no more than 45min.
Its not hard at all, just look up torque specs for the ring gear bolts and the carrier bearing caps. You do have to pull the carrier out but as long as u keep track of the shims and put them back in the same way they came out, itll be fine. Ive done 3 of them.
take wheels off, remove hub bolt and pull axles out, pull out carrier, remove ring gear, put locker in, put carrier back in with correct shims, put it all back together.
thanks guys so do i need a spreader and tools to set backlash and whats the other thing that is checked, there is a miller spreader on ebay im watching i cant believe a simple tool is worth so much
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131393392118?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
For the pinion seal u should have a inch pound torque wrench to check the preload before and after you pull the yoke off, or u can count threads or just tighten it back down, your not going to crush the crush sleeve without 600lbs of torque.
thanks i will count the threads, i do have a torque wrench, do i start at a low setting and go up till it turns instead of clicks , i imagine there is thread locker so it wouldn't be accurate
ima go ahead and order a lokka for the front it takes 2 to 3 months to ship
Need an inch pound torque wrench with a digital read out or the beam type torque wrench. Not foot pound. Then jack it up, take the tires off, and put the torque wrench on the nut. Turn it slowly and read how much pressure it takes to turn the axles/pinion/gears. Thats your preload.
Otherwise count the threads lol.
Like i said your not going to crush the sleeve anymore than it is without tremandous force, so u can just crank it down and should be ok.
front locker is put on hold.
figured out the rear axle is moving more then normal. needs new axle mounts, the pins on the lift blocks are hitting the axle and wont tighten down.
i had this problem on my blazer also and i put semi trailer axle pushers on it and a bigger pin
i also ordered the procomp leafs to get rid of the blocks , got a few more photos to post
the smitybuilt xrc winch worked fine the cable seems thinner and i couldn't not let it bunch up, the milemarker was all around better quality i had three including the hydrolic one on the blazer
And i now have wooden bumpstops in front
Last edited by riderjay253; 01-24-2015 at 08:41 PM.
12-29-2014, 08:43 PM
