mikecrt

I'm eager to stop throwing money at it, believe me. I really appreciate the input. One question. Why would everything work perfectly normal each time something replaced, only to gradually decay back to where It started? Also, no click when turn the key. Again, thanks for the help and I will let you know how this worked out.
Thank You,
Mike R.

straightsixjeep

Make sure the clutch kit came with a new
-pressure plate
-throwout bearing
-pilot bearing
-clutch disk
-alignment tool
Mine even came with spline lube. I however used chrysler spec grease.

You might need a new flywheel depending on its condition. I will explain on why your not supposed to have the flywheel resurfaced, either clean up the existing one of replace if it needs to be.
Also get some pb blaster/wd 40 for bolts, and red loctite. For where you dont loctite you can use antiseize on the bolts (bellhousing, crossmember, trans mounts...)

Replaced the clutch in my cherokee two weeks ago, not a horrible job but time consuming. It took me around 10-12 hours but I was working by myself, on my back, with the jeep on the ground, and I only have a floor jack and a few scissor jacks. If you dont have access to a lift get jack stands and put two under each axle and even some on the unibody to keep it secure. Also get a few large floor jacks or a tranny jack would be easiest. I removed the trans and t-case as one unit so I didnt have to drain any fluids. You need to remove the front and rear driveshaft, support the trans and remove the crossmember (one nut and one bolt on each side, and in the center of the crossmember theres 4 nuts holding it to the transmount, they are 13mm), lower the trans a little bit to remove any electrical connectors,the vent hose for the t-case, o2 sensor... At the base of the shifter if you push down on it and turn it will release, its spring loaded. I tried and tried but couldnt get it. I ended up removing the whole arm rest/console inside and removed the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the trans. The rubber shifter boot pops up if you pry gently with a flat head screwdriver, same with the t-case shifter plastic cover that shows "2wd, 4wd hi/lo/N." Theres a screw under the rubber shifter boot and another screw under the plastic 4x4 lever cover, then open up the arm rest lid and remove the screws inside. In order to get the whole console out you need to pull the E brake as far up as possible, getting the console to clear the E brake was the most difficult for me. The shifter ball/grip simply unscrews counter closckwise. The top two bolts holding the trans bell housing to the engine are E12 reverse torx head bolts, I bought the E12 bit at the parts store for a few dollars. You can either lower the trans a little bit and get those out from the bottom or from the top once the console is removed, either way you will need a good foot or two of extensions. Also remove the crank position sensor which has two bolts securing it, remove the starter, ... Once all the electrical connections are unhooked, the vent tube, the shifter is removed, the slave cylinder is removed (two nuts), the t-case lever is unhooked, and all the bellhousing bolts are out, put a jack under the oil pan but have a piece of wood or something else between them to prevent the jack stand from piercing the oil pan. With the trans supported pry the bellhousing away from the engine. Mine was really stiff at first but with a pry bar I hammered it between the engine and bellhousing and I got it to come apart. With the trans out remove throw out bearing on the shaft coming out of the trans inside the bellhousing. The driver side of the shift fork is pushed by the slave cylinder, the passenger side of the shift fork is clipped onto the "pivot ball." Simply pull on it and it will pop off. There just a little metal clip holding it on. Mine was broke so I bought a new one from the dealer for $4. With the shift fork out you can see how the throwout bearing simply clips on. Take the old one off, clean up any dirt on the shift fork and clean up the bellhousing. Clean off the shaft the throwout bearing slides on and then apply a light amount of grease to it. The throw out bearing is a sealed unit so clip it onto the shift fork and slide it on the input shaft. Make sure the passenger side of the shift fork clips onto the pivot ball. Its a good idea to grease both ends of the shift fork, where the pivot ball rests and where the rod coming out of the slave cylinder pushes on the shift fork. Next remove all the bolts holding the pressure plate onto the flywheel. Once they are out the pressure plate will come off along with the clutch disk under it exposing the flywheel. If the flywheel shows signs of age, cracks, oil residue, or grooves deeper than .003" its a good idea to replace it. The factory service manual states to not resurface it because the flywheel has a unique contour that isnt perfectly flat. Replace it if it needs to be, if not clean up the surface with emory cloth or lighty scuff it with 180 grit sandpaper, you only want to go over it lightly to remove any glossy finish then wipe it off with a clean towel. The pilot bearing rests in the end of the crankshaft, which is directly in the center of the flywheel. Youtube the pilot bearing grease method, people also use bread, wet toilet paper... to shove in there, then put a bolt ontop and hit it with a hammer. This forces the grease of whatever in there and forces the pilot bearing out. After trying this for 4 hours I went to harbor freight, bought their $18 pilot bearing puller and was done in 2 minutes. Check the instructions for which way your pilot bearing goes in, one side is flat the other is almost cone shaped, If I recall the cone shaped edge goes towards the crank, and the flat side which normally has writing on it goes outside, or towards the trans. Clean up any grease inside where you took the pilot bearing out. Then apply a very light coat of grease in the end of the crank to help slide the pilot bearing in. Carefully with a socket of something else the same size as the pilot bearing, have the pilot bearing lined up, socket behind it, then take a hammer or mallet and tap it in, make sure it goes in perfect. Tap it in until the end sits flush with the crank, which is how the original one should have been. My instructions said to not grease the pilot bearing since it was pregreased and mixing grease would be bad. If you did remove the flywheel use loctite on the bolts and then torque them to spec, you have to put a ratchet or breaker bar with socket on the crank pulley at the front of the engine. Have someone hold it or lodge it in place to hold the crank from spinning while you torque the flywheel bolts, you will do the same thing for holding the flywheel while you torque the pressure plate on. After the flywheel, determine which side of the clutch disc faces the engine and place that between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Holding the pressure plate in place, get all the bolts in there a few threads. Next take your clutch disc alignment tool and center the clutch disc by inserting it through the pressure plate and into the splines of the clutch disc. With it centered, rotate around the pressure plate bolts and get them a little bit more snug each time, or go in a rotation like you would tightening lug nuts on a wheel. I used a small amount of red loctite on the bolts. Make sure you torque them to spec. After this remove the alignment tool and check it all over. If your ready get the bellhousing pushed back up to the engine and line up the dowels, then start bolting it up. Look up the torque specs for all the bolts, put the cps back on, the starter, slave cylinder... Get all the electrical connectors hooked back up, the vent tube, and then the driveshafts. Make sure you marked the driveshafts before you remove them so they go back on the same way and dont cause vibrations. Put the shifter back in, then the console and once again check it all over. If your ready push the clutch in and back out a few times to see how it feels. When ready have it in N, with the E brake on, push the clutch in and start it up. This is the gist of replacing the clutch, trying to remember off the top of my head what all I did. Any questions just ask.
ps: Just remembered that you need to disconnect the exhaust where it bolts up the the manfold, theres just two nuts. I believe they were a 14mm on mine. I also unhooked the rear clamp on mine right next to the gas tank. When you disconnect the exhaust here and at the manifold, and you also have the crossmember out, you only have the rubber hanger holding it before the rear axle. You can drag the exhaust to the right and out of the way at this point. Before putting it back together checkt to see the condition of the metal donut gasket that sits between the exhaust and the manifold, I replaced mine for $12 from the parts store.

abqdave

Hi:
1994 Grand Limited 5.2. Just put rebuilt Magnum engine, want to lower center of gravity. How wide can I go with buying a wheel adapter? It seems that two inch adapters are available and I like the thought increasing the wheelbase by 4 " would be a good thing. It is full time 4X and all suspension is just rebuilt stock, Shocks, sway bars etc. all just rebuilt or new. All I'm really worried about is the highway ride and wheel turn clearance inside the stock fender. Anybody have any pro's or con's with adding these adapters? Stress on PS Pump?
Thanks in advance

94XjSport94

New rims over 2 inch spacers anyday. Get something with 4" or less backspacing

320XJ

ok im in the process of putting in a different front diff and rear diff in my 95 xj my current has 3.07s and my new ones 3.55s i was told, i dont have a garage currently to do the work but i need to get it done cuz its my ownly transportation. i live in minnesota and there is already a dusting of snow on the ground and i was wondering if i just get the back done cuz thats whats locked up "bad pinion bearing" can i drive my xj in rear wheel drive only with different gears in the back from the front without it hurting anything?

1976Mustang

How often would one recommend replacing a 4.0's serpentine belt? I ask because i just noticed mine squeals when the A/C kicks in.

NewKindOfClown

You can, but you might want to take off your front driveshaft so you don't accidentally engage 4WD.

94XjSport94

Yeah if you stay in 2WD that's fine

94XjSport94

Is it the belt or a bearing on a pulley?

1976Mustang

No clue, which is why I'm asking how often the belt needs replacing. Trying to diagnose it. It doesn't sounds like a bearing, which would be a chirping right?

94XjSport94

My idler chirped so I guess... Lol won't ever hurt to replace it

1976Mustang

Gonna go through service receipts, see if i can find the last time it was replaced. Dunno if my dad ever had it done since i got it, so no clue how old it is.

94XjSport94

Get a gator back one if you can, if not then napa

1976Mustang

Found it, was replaced 8/25/2010. So it should still be good... Guess i'll check the tension tomorrow. AAMCO did it so it's probably NAPA since there's a napa store near them.

SoCalxJ4.0

I have a C8.25 27 spline, is this axle worth regearing and locking, or should I get the 8.8? I want discs, so either whole axle, or disc conversion. What do you guys recommend?