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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Aside from that the fans mount pretty much flush to the rear of the rad. Nowhere to put them behind it.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Nice edit... Yes there is a vacuum hose that runs from the master cylinder to the intake manifold. This is separate from any other vacuum system so a vac problem of that scope would indicate a significant leak around your intake manifold. What year is your XJ?
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Originally Posted by salad
Unless you're doing heavy towing or your torque converter craps the bed, the transmission will generate less heat than the engine. In front of the main radiator is optimal since the engine will still receive cooling (fan can speed up, plus the aux cooler isn't that large, and the air coming off of it won't be that warm). However on a hot day or in stop and go traffic, with the aux cooler behind the rad you can dump heat INTO the transmission instead of removing it.
Aside from that the fans mount pretty much flush to the rear of the rad. Nowhere to put them behind it.
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Clear Lake, TX
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Door power unlock lock switch quit working on my 99. Checked the fuse and it is good. The light in the middle of the switch lights up. I just replaced the fuse junction box on the passenger kick panel two weeks ago and is was working just fine.
Which harness going into the fuse junction box controls the door locking mechanism? I have a feeling that one of the wires came loose, even thou that would not explain why the light works unless that is a separate circuit.
Which harness going into the fuse junction box controls the door locking mechanism? I have a feeling that one of the wires came loose, even thou that would not explain why the light works unless that is a separate circuit.
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denver, CO
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Wrench on one bolt to hold it in place, ratchet on another to loosen it. When you get to the last one. Put a bolt back in. The one you put back in should be easy to get out, even with out another bolt to hold onto. Did something similar to get a free spinning mech fan off.
This worked thanks. Broke one ratchet, but the second held up. Thanks again
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by Wonka1981
This worked thanks. Broke one ratchet, but the second held up. Thanks again
Senior Member
'87-Renix-o-rings on fuel rail
My wife drove in complaining of gas smell through the vents. I opened up the hood while it was running and the injectors on #1 and #2 were leaking fuel from the intake-injector side (not leaking at the rail). She needed it for work in the morning so I just finished taking the rail off, cleaning the injectors and putting new brown o-rings on. I didn't have any black o-rings so I put the brown ones on the rail side too (the old black rings looked flat). I started it up and no leaks and engine seems to be running ok. Am I good to go? Are the black o-rings a must for the fuel rail? I can take it back off on the weekend and buy some from NAPA but just wondering if these will be ok.
Thanks!
Thanks!
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Anybody ever rebuild the front bulkhead?
Mines wrecked in the front. Fixing it currently.
I've ponder over what to do. I could hack off the front of one on another XJ at the pickapart. Reinforce it and weld it in. Sounds simple but might before cumbersome than its worth.
My dad says use some channel (that fits) for the part that goes across, 1/4 for the bumper bracket mounts and tying back into the frame rails. Than 3/16" or maybe smaller for the top. That's a vague explanation but it sounds solid. Really the only thing needed to fit on it is holes for the pegs on bottom of the radiator, so not really any other fitment issues I can think of.
Anyone ever done something similar?
Mines wrecked in the front. Fixing it currently.
I've ponder over what to do. I could hack off the front of one on another XJ at the pickapart. Reinforce it and weld it in. Sounds simple but might before cumbersome than its worth.
My dad says use some channel (that fits) for the part that goes across, 1/4 for the bumper bracket mounts and tying back into the frame rails. Than 3/16" or maybe smaller for the top. That's a vague explanation but it sounds solid. Really the only thing needed to fit on it is holes for the pegs on bottom of the radiator, so not really any other fitment issues I can think of.
Anyone ever done something similar?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Yea. I got one... then discovered it was bent to hell from the buy using it to push someone I thought it was just the bumper, it wasn't. Its not really what I got it for though.
I'm starting to lean towards a custom job on it. I'm not sure how strong welding in a newish bulkhead would be. I mean at best, strong as stock. I've seen what happens there.
If it was just the cross section I would definitely cut and replace. But there's more damage on the areas where the bumper mounts.
I just can't find anything for reference. I found full out engine cages, front ends, etc. But nothing that retains any kind of stock ness like I'm shooting for.
I'm starting to lean towards a custom job on it. I'm not sure how strong welding in a newish bulkhead would be. I mean at best, strong as stock. I've seen what happens there.
If it was just the cross section I would definitely cut and replace. But there's more damage on the areas where the bumper mounts.
I just can't find anything for reference. I found full out engine cages, front ends, etc. But nothing that retains any kind of stock ness like I'm shooting for.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Frisco, Tx
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your welding on semi thin steel. It wl never be the same. I really just think your better of buying a new shell
But wtf do i know.
But wtf do i know.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oklahoma
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Having some issues with my 95' cherokee country. im wondering if it could be something computer/electrical. it has "good starts" and "bad starts". on a "good start" it runs almost normal (runs/idles rough and seems to be missing) but on a "bad start" its even worse. it boggs down so bad it wont go over 34-45mph and if try to force it it will stink of something burning. the air will not get cold at all or blow out if im gassing it. sometimes there isnt even power to radio/lights/flashers ect...ill have to turn it off and restart it a bunch of times to get "good start". it always idles/runs rough and has a hard time to start.
ok..i have replaced the cat. converter, muffler, starter, the spark plugs and disrupter cap, map sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter and all the vacuum hoses i could fine that had holes in it. also the radiator and cap.
ok..i have replaced the cat. converter, muffler, starter, the spark plugs and disrupter cap, map sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter and all the vacuum hoses i could fine that had holes in it. also the radiator and cap.