Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: General Overview
Print Wikipost

XJ Ask the Question Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-03-2012, 06:49 PM
  #15001  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by taxidave
I was looking at adding a tranny cooler and wondered what the difference is between having it in line before the radiator, or after the radiator?
Unless you're doing heavy towing or your torque converter craps the bed, the transmission will generate less heat than the engine. In front of the main radiator is optimal since the engine will still receive cooling (fan can speed up, plus the aux cooler isn't that large, and the air coming off of it won't be that warm). However on a hot day or in stop and go traffic, with the aux cooler behind the rad you can dump heat INTO the transmission instead of removing it.

Aside from that the fans mount pretty much flush to the rear of the rad. Nowhere to put them behind it.
salad is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 06:55 PM
  #15002  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by wileyx
is the slave to the master cylinder vac assisted? i really dont know my 4 wheel drive wont engage and the brakes suck any help is welcomed
Nice edit... Yes there is a vacuum hose that runs from the master cylinder to the intake manifold. This is separate from any other vacuum system so a vac problem of that scope would indicate a significant leak around your intake manifold. What year is your XJ?
salad is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 07:00 PM
  #15003  
Member
 
taxidave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Default

Originally Posted by salad

Unless you're doing heavy towing or your torque converter craps the bed, the transmission will generate less heat than the engine. In front of the main radiator is optimal since the engine will still receive cooling (fan can speed up, plus the aux cooler isn't that large, and the air coming off of it won't be that warm). However on a hot day or in stop and go traffic, with the aux cooler behind the rad you can dump heat INTO the transmission instead of removing it.

Aside from that the fans mount pretty much flush to the rear of the rad. Nowhere to put them behind it.
Sorry I meant to say in regards to fluid flow. Cooling the fluid before it gets to the radiator or after. But then again I'm kinda slow and you did answer it.
taxidave is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 08:34 PM
  #15004  
Senior Member
 
Houston Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Clear Lake, TX
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Door power unlock lock switch quit working on my 99. Checked the fuse and it is good. The light in the middle of the switch lights up. I just replaced the fuse junction box on the passenger kick panel two weeks ago and is was working just fine.

Which harness going into the fuse junction box controls the door locking mechanism? I have a feeling that one of the wires came loose, even thou that would not explain why the light works unless that is a separate circuit.
Houston Kid is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:46 PM
  #15005  
Member
 
Wonka1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Default

Originally Posted by DieselD
Wrench on one bolt to hold it in place, ratchet on another to loosen it. When you get to the last one. Put a bolt back in. The one you put back in should be easy to get out, even with out another bolt to hold onto. Did something similar to get a free spinning mech fan off.

This worked thanks. Broke one ratchet, but the second held up. Thanks again
Wonka1981 is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 10:11 PM
  #15006  
CF Veteran
 
DieselD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by Wonka1981

This worked thanks. Broke one ratchet, but the second held up. Thanks again
Sweet. Glad you got it.
DieselD is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 10:21 PM
  #15007  
Senior Member
 
67 GMC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fort Erie, CANADA
Posts: 925
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default '87-Renix-o-rings on fuel rail

My wife drove in complaining of gas smell through the vents. I opened up the hood while it was running and the injectors on #1 and #2 were leaking fuel from the intake-injector side (not leaking at the rail). She needed it for work in the morning so I just finished taking the rail off, cleaning the injectors and putting new brown o-rings on. I didn't have any black o-rings so I put the brown ones on the rail side too (the old black rings looked flat). I started it up and no leaks and engine seems to be running ok. Am I good to go? Are the black o-rings a must for the fuel rail? I can take it back off on the weekend and buy some from NAPA but just wondering if these will be ok.

Thanks!
67 GMC is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:10 PM
  #15008  
CF Veteran
 
DieselD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Default

Anybody ever rebuild the front bulkhead?

Mines wrecked in the front. Fixing it currently.

I've ponder over what to do. I could hack off the front of one on another XJ at the pickapart. Reinforce it and weld it in. Sounds simple but might before cumbersome than its worth.

My dad says use some channel (that fits) for the part that goes across, 1/4 for the bumper bracket mounts and tying back into the frame rails. Than 3/16" or maybe smaller for the top. That's a vague explanation but it sounds solid. Really the only thing needed to fit on it is holes for the pegs on bottom of the radiator, so not really any other fitment issues I can think of.

Anyone ever done something similar?
DieselD is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:12 PM
  #15009  
CF Veteran
 
I Leak Oil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Frisco, Tx
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Sounds easier to buy a doner xj, and swap it all over
I Leak Oil is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:20 PM
  #15010  
CF Veteran
 
DieselD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Default

Yea. I got one... then discovered it was bent to hell from the buy using it to push someone I thought it was just the bumper, it wasn't. Its not really what I got it for though.

I'm starting to lean towards a custom job on it. I'm not sure how strong welding in a newish bulkhead would be. I mean at best, strong as stock. I've seen what happens there.

If it was just the cross section I would definitely cut and replace. But there's more damage on the areas where the bumper mounts.

I just can't find anything for reference. I found full out engine cages, front ends, etc. But nothing that retains any kind of stock ness like I'm shooting for.
DieselD is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:23 PM
  #15011  
CF Veteran
 
I Leak Oil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Frisco, Tx
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Your welding on semi thin steel. It wl never be the same. I really just think your better of buying a new shell

But wtf do i know.
I Leak Oil is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:31 PM
  #15012  
CF Veteran
 
DieselD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Default

Its not for DD duties though. Just off reading. I figure why not make it better.
DieselD is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:43 PM
  #15013  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by DieselD
Its not for DD duties though. Just off reading. I figure why not make it better.
Off reading? That's like what, reading Mein Kampf in Germany? Or the really obscure philosophy books in the dusty abandoned corner of the used book shop?
salad is offline  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:55 PM
  #15014  
CF Veteran
 
DieselD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Default

Yup. Damn typo.
DieselD is offline  
Old 10-04-2012, 05:29 AM
  #15015  
Newbie
 
RBishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Default

Having some issues with my 95' cherokee country. im wondering if it could be something computer/electrical. it has "good starts" and "bad starts". on a "good start" it runs almost normal (runs/idles rough and seems to be missing) but on a "bad start" its even worse. it boggs down so bad it wont go over 34-45mph and if try to force it it will stink of something burning. the air will not get cold at all or blow out if im gassing it. sometimes there isnt even power to radio/lights/flashers ect...ill have to turn it off and restart it a bunch of times to get "good start". it always idles/runs rough and has a hard time to start.

ok..i have replaced the cat. converter, muffler, starter, the spark plugs and disrupter cap, map sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter and all the vacuum hoses i could fine that had holes in it. also the radiator and cap.
RBishop is offline  


Quick Reply: XJ Ask the Question Thread



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:13 PM.