Wheel bearing locked up?
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Cylinder
Wheel bearing locked up?
About three weeks ago, I had new tires and a new wheel bearing put on. Yesterday, for the first time since, I put my 2000 Cherokee Sport in 4wheel drive. Today this happened.
Does anyone think there could be a correlation between putting it in 4wheel for the first time and the new wheel bearing? You can't really tell from the picture, but all five lugs sheered off so my assumption is the wheel bearing locked up. I wasn't able to take off the brake assembly and rotor because of rain, but I'm going to jack it up and take a look first thing in the morning. Luckily no one was hurt. I had just swapped vehicles with my wife. She was doing 40 on a back road when it happened, if I had been driving, I would have been doing 70+ on the interstate.
Edit: my wife did say there was a slight grinding before it snapped off.
Does anyone think there could be a correlation between putting it in 4wheel for the first time and the new wheel bearing? You can't really tell from the picture, but all five lugs sheered off so my assumption is the wheel bearing locked up. I wasn't able to take off the brake assembly and rotor because of rain, but I'm going to jack it up and take a look first thing in the morning. Luckily no one was hurt. I had just swapped vehicles with my wife. She was doing 40 on a back road when it happened, if I had been driving, I would have been doing 70+ on the interstate.
Edit: my wife did say there was a slight grinding before it snapped off.
Last edited by mcelwainjj; 07-19-2015 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Info not included in original post
#4
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Yeah the lugs was not torqued right is why the wheel came off.If the hub or brake locked up the wheel would have just skid and only leaving a bad spot in your tire.I would be on the phone to the shop that did the wheel bearings,They are legally responsible for the damage done to your jeep.
#5
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
Like everyone above says, lug nuts went bad somehow. It was not the wheel hub bearings. Did you feel any vibrations from that wheel?
What brand hub did they put on? Was it new or used?
What brand hub did they put on? Was it new or used?
#6
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They put in a brand new wheel bearing, not sure what brand. She said there was a vibration from the steering wheel and a grinding noise before it sheered off.
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#8
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Couple close ups of the rotor. I don't want to take anything apart. I called the shop this morning, they want to look at it, but won't say whether they'll pay for any of it til after I have it towed there and they look at it.
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Wheel bearing locked up?
If you have it towed I would send the bill to them as it is their responsibility. You can always pay it yourself after if it turns out to not be their mistake which seems highly unlikely. This doesn't happen without cause.
#11
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Year: 1996
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Maybe I am wrong and the wheel hub assembly is different in a 2000 than in my 1996, but that cotter pin does not look three weeks old? The rust on it makes it look older. Which means they never took it off, which makes me wonder if they even took off the wheel hub. So how did they change the bearings?
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Year: 2000 sport
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Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Maybe I am wrong and the wheel hub assembly is different in a 2000 than in my 1996, but that cotter pin does not look three weeks old? The rust on it makes it look older. Which means they never took it off, which makes me wonder if they even took off the wheel hub. So how did they change the bearings?
-------------------------------
Is that anti seize on the stud? If it is anti seize, to me it doesn't even look as if a lug nut was spun down on that stud.
The anti seize that was put on has no thread marks of a lug nut being spun on or not torqued all the way down.
If not anti seize,,then
.
Last edited by Dumajones; 07-21-2015 at 02:55 AM.
#13
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here's what i think...
he installed the wrong hub bearing.
the correct one would have more of a flange that would protrude through the wheel opening.
the wrong one would be flush with the rotor, and not protrude through the wheel opening, therefor all the rotational mass would be on the studs alone.
i recently just did the hubs on my 99. he gave me the wrong hubs at first, and i installed it no problem, but knowing something was up when i put the wheel back on. it wasn't protruding through the center hole in the rim as it should.
i researched when they changed the design, it was mid 99.
i ordered in the other style and they were correct.
i was able to move the jeep around the yard, but didn't drive it on the road.
here's the two differences...
he installed the wrong hub bearing.
the correct one would have more of a flange that would protrude through the wheel opening.
the wrong one would be flush with the rotor, and not protrude through the wheel opening, therefor all the rotational mass would be on the studs alone.
i recently just did the hubs on my 99. he gave me the wrong hubs at first, and i installed it no problem, but knowing something was up when i put the wheel back on. it wasn't protruding through the center hole in the rim as it should.
i researched when they changed the design, it was mid 99.
i ordered in the other style and they were correct.
i was able to move the jeep around the yard, but didn't drive it on the road.
here's the two differences...
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
here's what i think...
he installed the wrong hub bearing.
the correct one would have more of a flange that would protrude through the wheel opening.
the wrong one would be flush with the rotor, and not protrude through the wheel opening, therefor all the rotational mass would be on the studs alone.
i recently just did the hubs on my 99. he gave me the wrong hubs at first, and i installed it no problem, but knowing something was up when i put the wheel back on. it wasn't protruding through the center hole in the rim as it should.
i researched when they changed the design, it was mid 99.
i ordered in the other style and they were correct.
i was able to move the jeep around the yard, but didn't drive it on the road.
here's the two differences...
he installed the wrong hub bearing.
the correct one would have more of a flange that would protrude through the wheel opening.
the wrong one would be flush with the rotor, and not protrude through the wheel opening, therefor all the rotational mass would be on the studs alone.
i recently just did the hubs on my 99. he gave me the wrong hubs at first, and i installed it no problem, but knowing something was up when i put the wheel back on. it wasn't protruding through the center hole in the rim as it should.
i researched when they changed the design, it was mid 99.
i ordered in the other style and they were correct.
i was able to move the jeep around the yard, but didn't drive it on the road.
here's the two differences...
#15
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Not sure why I wasn't getting emails with these other responses, but here's an update, although I may need to take it back in after reading some of these responses about the wrong bearing.
I had it towed to the shop last week. They took it in, replaced the rotor, the lugs and lug nuts, and even went to a local pick-a-part to get a new rim. They didn't charge me a penny, and are even reimbursing me for the tows. I have been driving this daily, but I'm going to take a look at the bearings to make sure they installed the correct one. If they didn't, I have a feeling this same thing could happen again. Thanks for the replies, I'll keep you all posted.
EDIT: I went out and rechecked the bearings. The new bearing does protrude out through the wheel opening like caged said. I think in the pictures I took, that the rotor was pushed away from the hub because there was nothing to hold it in place. The rotor had also been bent up so that may have had something to do with it to.
In RE: to DumaJones, no, it wasn't anti-sieze. It was from where the lug had been sheered off, and it was just the damaged metal showing.
I had it towed to the shop last week. They took it in, replaced the rotor, the lugs and lug nuts, and even went to a local pick-a-part to get a new rim. They didn't charge me a penny, and are even reimbursing me for the tows. I have been driving this daily, but I'm going to take a look at the bearings to make sure they installed the correct one. If they didn't, I have a feeling this same thing could happen again. Thanks for the replies, I'll keep you all posted.
EDIT: I went out and rechecked the bearings. The new bearing does protrude out through the wheel opening like caged said. I think in the pictures I took, that the rotor was pushed away from the hub because there was nothing to hold it in place. The rotor had also been bent up so that may have had something to do with it to.
In RE: to DumaJones, no, it wasn't anti-sieze. It was from where the lug had been sheered off, and it was just the damaged metal showing.
Last edited by mcelwainjj; 07-30-2015 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Rechecked bearings
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