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what weight oil

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Old 05-25-2011, 12:39 PM
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Cool what weight oil

what weight oil should i us in my 98 cherokee with 140,000 miles
i was told to us a 20w-50 or a 10w-40
aperciate the help guys
Old 05-25-2011, 12:56 PM
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10W-30
Old 05-25-2011, 01:01 PM
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i use 10-30 but it is whatever you feel comfy with really.... there are about a million threads on this... I usually go by what the owners Manuel says
Old 05-25-2011, 01:20 PM
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5w-30 for easing wear and tear at startup
Old 05-25-2011, 01:23 PM
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but it is still 30 weight cold....


I tend to run what the manufacturer suggests. Unless you live in very cold or very hot climates IMO it isn't good to use a thicker or thinner oil.
Old 05-25-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by razor02097
but it is still 30 weight cold....


I tend to run what the manufacturer suggests. Unless you live in very cold or very hot climates IMO it isn't good to use a thicker or thinner oil.
Read This
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Old 05-25-2011, 02:26 PM
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The same guy that said water would be a better lubricant than oil.... except he didn't mention water is a great solvent and will boil at relatively low temps causing air bubbles to form. Air isn't a lubricant... Distilled and/or deionized water is so good at being a solvent that it is used in medical equipment to dissolve oxidation from cooling coils in lasers and used in dialysis to remove toxins from blood. Neither use is for lubrication. If it was it would dissolve the material you are trying to lubricate.

If all the stuff he says is true then why don't all manufacturers use 0W-30? Why is it more difficult to find 0 weight oils if it is better to use? He has a lot of "information" on his site but I can't find any quoted resources or research outside his site...



I'm not arguing with you, I just find some of the information there difficult to believe. Again I tend to use what the manufacturer recommends. They built it, they should know what it's lubrication requirements are.
Old 05-25-2011, 03:21 PM
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Well I live in Jacksonville Florida very hot weather lol
Old 05-25-2011, 03:24 PM
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[QUOTE=razor02097;1015881]..........If all the stuff he says is true then why don't all manufacturers use 0W-30? Why is it more difficult to find 0 weight oils if it is better to use? He has a lot of "information" on his site but I can't find any quoted resources or research outside his site.........../QUOTE]

........because 0WXX motor oil is only available in synthetic but u can bet the mfgs. would prefer u use synthetic to better protect their engine. Most mfgs. are now recommending 5W20 or 0W20 but again, 0WXX is only available in synthetic.
Old 05-25-2011, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by razor02097
If all the stuff he says is true then why don't all manufacturers use 0W-30? Why is it more difficult to find 0 weight oils if it is better to use?
"The downside of a mineral based multi-grade oil is that this VII additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 grade oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VII wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 grade oil. When the VII is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 grade oil."

in otherwords, becuse they don't trust the consumer to change to oil religiously enough to prevent the oil from becoming too thin as the improvers wear out.
It's also impossible to create a 0w mineral oil.
Old 05-25-2011, 07:24 PM
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I like 5w40 for anything that tows or offroads during the summer. It keeps pressure better when idling after it's been working hard (on the trail or at stop lights.) Amsoil is what I usually get, but Shell (and I think Mobil1) makes it too.

The big reason 0w's are starting to be used is to help the manufacturers meet emissions standards. When a engine group is tested (EPA or CARB) the first 30-60 seconds are most important. So reducing pumping losses during warmup helps with meeting emissions.
Old 05-25-2011, 07:33 PM
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.....and the fact that it gets to the top quicker.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
.....and the fact that it gets to the top quicker.
The thinner oils are also more apt to leak. I've run 10w-30 as per spec in my '96 since new. It got full synthetic at 18K miles and has had it ever since.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by excess650
The thinner oils are also more apt to leak. I've run 10w-30 as per spec in my '96 since new. It got full synthetic at 18K miles and has had it ever since.
....and they lubricate quicker/better, leaking is a gasket issue. What do '11 manuals recommend vs 15 year old manuals?

Last edited by djb383; 05-25-2011 at 08:45 PM.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:59 PM
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I don't fill my tires to 44 psi because it says that is Max pressure on the sidewall. I don't use 92 octane fuel in a car that doesn't need it, nor do I use 87 octane in a car that needs 92 octane.

All vehicles are different. What works in a Ferrari may not work in a Jeep

I don't believe in running the wrong oil just because some guy on the internet makes some claims. These 4 liter engines can see hundreds of thousands of miles with the manufacturer recommended 10w30 oil.

Believe me it would be easier to buy 1 weight oil as my camaro takes 5w30 but to run it in my Jeep's engine i might as well run engine oil in the diff and wd-40 in the transmission. IMO the risk of consequence isn't worth a potential benefit.

Last edited by razor02097; 05-25-2011 at 09:03 PM.


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