eorose

Oh gotcha. Haynes suggests socket for axle shaft as well.

DFlintstone

My 90 uses the same all over. A little heat from a regular propane torch can make it almost easy. (that's with the clips off)

Heating the ears of course, not the caps! It's not necessary, just makes it easier.

Jamie57

You know if the OP would just fill out all his info like WHERE THE HELL HE LIVES, maybe one of us who lives nearby could pop over on a weekend and for a case of beer help the poor guy out. I know I would if I knew he was close by.

XJOhio

Be careful with the press. Make sure it is lined up properly or you might bend a yoke ear. This will then require additional time for mandatory swearing before bending it back. Its all doable, just study up on it first and get the right tools ready.

xjwanted

I was actually wondering about that:

1. Do I have to remove the tie rod ends to get the ball joints off?

Also I was planning on spending the money to rent the tools for the ball joints and u-joints. Since you pay a deposit at Advanced Auto Parts and then they return your money when you bring them back, so its like you didn't spend any money but still got your work done. I will be sure to line up the holes so I don't bend the ears. I don't want that to happen.

xjwanted

Well guys all the parts are on order, I ordered the following:

Dana 260x U-joints (2)
Crown Automotive Ball Joints- Upper/lower as set (2)
Inner axle oil seal (2)
Lubelocker seals for diff covers (front/rear)

Got all of my parts for $300, most shops will charge upwards of $500, meaning I got some pretty nice stuff for a great price. All I have left to buy is my jack and jack stands and my torque wrench and fluids. This is going to be a great experience for me, and I am looking forward to this, though most people wouldn't.

Potatowalker

I did my front axle u-joints this summer when I did my unit bearings, steering knuckles and brakes. I started out trying the socket/hammer/vise method and was having no luck - was worried about bending a yoke ear. My XJ lived in the Salt mecca of VT for the first 150K so it was a mess. I found the u-joint write-ups on stuoffroad.com (TJ dana 30s are identical to XJ dana 30s) to be very helpful and informative, and especially the trick to removing unit bearings/hubs from the knuckles without any hammering! I ended up buying a u-joint press, OTC brand methinks, for about 40 bucks. It made my rusted solid u-joints a TON easier on both the axles and driveshafts! I didn't touch my axle seals, and they haven't leaked at all. Just be real careful to keep the splined end centered in the tube with one hand when sliding the axle shafts in and out.

You must remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles before you can take them off to get at the ball joints. A small, 2-arm puller like a pitman arm puller or tie-rod puller makes easy work of the press-fit tie-rod studs after you get the castle nuts off.

Also, I just got new ball joints and my steering is indeed a bit more precise, and way less wander on uneven roads. No more uneven tire wear either - mine were cupping and wearing on the outside, worse on one side. That's all better now too.

It was all way easier than I expected for my first time doing any of it too!

Potatowalker

one thing i learned the hard way is to have a supply of cotter pins handy. I destroyed most of mine taking things apart and then had to run to the HW store to get it all back together proper. They had a boxed assortment of a bunch of different sizes and I've been glad I got it more than once! Woulda helped to have it from the start tho. might as well get a(nother) can of PB Blaster penetrant while yer there too! hehe

xjwanted

I plan on using pullers for all the different stuff, I am however a little sketched out by Quadratec's Crown Automotive ball joints, since they are a stock replacement and have a plastic joint inside them, I decided to go with them though because Quadratec does not sell Dana ball joints.