Transmission Fluid? Need a fast answer
#1
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Transmission Fluid? Need a fast answer
ok so the person who changed my trans filter and fluid didnt tighten the drain plug and now i need to put trans fluid in how much should it take manual says 8.5 but that sounds like a little much so how much do i need all has drain out of my trans
#2
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The pan holds 2.5 liters (about half a gallon) Im not sure how much the whole system holds. Did you start the jeep with the plug out? If not, just add the 2.5l, start it and check it.
You need Dexron III
You need Dexron III
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
For a full fill from a total overhaul and new torque converter, you're looking at eight quarts (two gallons.)
For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)
How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.
Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)
How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.
Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
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#8
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thanks for all the help guys....but my problem is now bigger than it was apparently. i tightened the drain plug and its now leaking fluid as fast as it goes in
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Year: 2001
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#14
thanks for the info. much help
For a full fill from a total overhaul and new torque converter, you're looking at eight quarts (two gallons.)
For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)
How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.
Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
For a "service fill" (drain/drop pan and refill,) you're looking at four quarts (a gallon.)
How much you really need is going to depend on how much got pumped out when you were trying to run it - there is the front pump that generates the fluid pressure to run the box, and the torque converter itself doubles as a circulation pump (minimal contribution to pressure.) So, the torque converter may have emptied itself.
Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
NB: Automatic Transmission fluid level must be checked "Hot, Engine Idling, in Park." Failure to do so will give you a "false full" reading, since the fluid won't be circulating and filling the passages. Checking it cold with the engine running will end up with you overfilling; which will cause foaming, cavitation, and damage to hydraulic parts using high pressures. Treat this point as Important!
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Year: 2000
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Here's how I'd go about it:
- Go buy a case (twelve quarts) of Dexron II/IIE/III/VI or Mercon V-spec fluid (NOT ATF +3/+4! I don't care what the TSB sez, reports from the field are still negative... The AW4 is a Toyota box and not a Chrysler!)
- Top off the pan about a pint at a time (pour down through the dipstick tube) until the 'stick reads FULL. Nota Bene - Your fluid will still be low at this time!
- Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
- Sit down and stand on the brake. Shift up and down through the gear ranges, pausing for 45-60 seconds in each gear range. Hit them all. You're refilling all of the hydraulic passages, and getting the fluid hot.
- Shift back to Park.
- Leave the engine running.
- Go check the fluid again. Top off as required. Typically, the cross-hatched area can be considered "One Pint Needed" (on some slushboxen, it's a quart - but if you go with adding a pint at a time, you're less likely to overfill.)
- When the transmission finally reads "Full," return the vehicle to normal service.
- Recheck the transmission fluid level after two days' service.
Treat this point as Important!
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