DangerWillRobinson

Went to the JY today and snatched up a new cluster with tach, oil sending unit, and temp sending unit.

Got home, installed the cluster first, then the oil pressure sending unit, then moved on to the temp sending unit.

Darn thing snapped off flush in the head! Anyway to get this out?

For now, I have the new sender plugged in and resting next to it on the valve cover. The gauge reads just a hair over stone cold after running for a while.

Also wondering if there is another dummy light that will come on if I overheat until I get this fixed.

TIA,
DWR

5-90

Question #2 - No.

Question #1 - Screw extractors and a bunch of care is needed (along with some cursing and some penetrant of choice.)

Let this be a lesson to everyone - BE VERY CAREFUL when trying to remove this sensor! It's painfully easy to screw up and snap just like the OP did here!

This is where experience comes in handy - it helps to know how to feel the difference between a screw loosening and a screw failing.

DangerWillRobinson

I figured it would be easy-out time on this one. That really sucks.

Also, you are 100% right. Be VERY careful on this one... the JY piece I pulled came out nice and easy. That lead me to believe the one on MY Jeep would be the same. NOT TRUE. The head of this sending unit snapped off so fast I didnt have a chance to 'feel' it failing.

Hommersimpson

a decent garage should only charge you about 15- 20 bucks to drill it and easy out it....

5-90

When removing this sensor, and I haven't done it before, I'll heat it up with a torch and "wax it" using paraffin - the wax will usually wick in between the threads, and help release it. Also, the process of heating copper and copper alloys and allowing them to gradually cool will make them incrementally stronger - which also helps. Don't heat past 500-550*, if you can help it (this is why I keep a selection of Tempil sticks on hand. Check your local welding supplier.)

When installing a new sensor, I'll liberally coat the threads with never-seez. Tapered pipe threads have a "torque to angle" rule, check the following:

0-1/4" NPT: 1 Flat Past Finger Tight (FPFT)
1/4"-1/2" NPT: 2FPFT
1/2"-1" NPT: 3FPFT
1"+ NPT: 4-6FPFT (retighten PRN.)

Since the lubrication of the never-seez doesn't have anything whatever to do with the torque angle (it's a static value, and has nothing to do with turning force,) there's no reason to change the torque value. All you're trying to get is sufficient wedging action of the threads to seal them against leakage.

Generally, you'll tighten the fitting/sensor/whatever to specification, return it to service, and check it again a couple of days later. If there is evidence of leakage, turn it an additiona 1/2-1 flat, remove evidence of leakage, and check again after a couple days' service. Repeat until no more evidence of leakage is found (but I've only ever needed to retighten once after RTS, if at all. It really doesn't take much.)

DangerWillRobinson

EXCELLENT information. Thank you.

5-90

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."

Brudda, I've got a lot of experience, by that definition!