Is this too hot?
#46
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So, yesterday went up I-70 W to Vail, going up steeps grades at 4000 rpm and foot to floor resulted in a top temp of 241. Yikes. Although my check gauges light never came on and my gauge didn't hit the red I have decided to replace the radiator and water pump. There's something wrong and I'm fixing it next paycheck. I believe the radiator possibly got plugged by crap I loosened when I flushed my heater core. Maybe I'll total flush it with radiator cleaner first. Idk. But there is a problem and I'm going to fix it. The bottom of the radiator also feels significantly cooler leading me to believe it's clogged.
Thanks for all the help gents.
Thanks for all the help gents.
Last edited by jpmarine6786; 06-16-2016 at 03:29 PM.
#47
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Year: 1999
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So, yesterday went up I-70 W to Vail, going up steeps grades at 4000 rpm and foot to floor resulted in a top temp of 241. Yikes. Although my check gauges light never came on and my gauge didn't hit the red I have decided to replace the radiator and water pump. There's something wrong and I'm fixing it next paycheck. I believe the radiator possibly got plugged by crap I loosened when I flushed my heater core. Maybe I'll total flush it with radiator cleaner first. Idk. But there is a problem and I'm going to fix it. The bottom of the radiator also feels significantly cooler leading me to believe it's clogged.
Thanks for all the help gents.
Thanks for all the help gents.
#49
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Yup, that would do it.
Flush the crap out of it several times before you pull the rad, there is probably a bunch of crap in the block as well and you don't want it to plug up the new radiator. Back flush the heater core separately as well for the same reason.
I have a Spectra branded one that has worked out well for me, but I had to put one in a pinch when I somehow busted my last one wheeling so there may be better options at a similar price point. Don't forget Hoses if they are old.
Consider replacing the t-stat at the same time since you will have everything apart and cheaper than antifreeze anyways
Flush the crap out of it several times before you pull the rad, there is probably a bunch of crap in the block as well and you don't want it to plug up the new radiator. Back flush the heater core separately as well for the same reason.
I have a Spectra branded one that has worked out well for me, but I had to put one in a pinch when I somehow busted my last one wheeling so there may be better options at a similar price point. Don't forget Hoses if they are old.
Consider replacing the t-stat at the same time since you will have everything apart and cheaper than antifreeze anyways
#50
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Yeah it's got water and prestone radiator cleaner in it right now. Maybe I can save this radiator. Idk.
My dad said that the stuff seems like stop leak and that's probably why the PO put a new rad on, to sell it.
My dad said that the stuff seems like stop leak and that's probably why the PO put a new rad on, to sell it.
#52
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I don't get paid till next Friday, and I'm broke right now because I just bought new tires. I'll see if this flushed saves it, and it not I'll install a new rad.
#53
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It might save it but for how long? My brother had the same issue last year. He flushed everything and it seemed fine but gave out 3 months later because the inside had been damaged but seemed fine after the flush
#55
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Shouldn't there be a hose on that barbed connector sticking out of the radiator filler neck? Do you not have your overflow bottle connected?
By the way, I don't think that's stop leak. That's the crap that precipitates out of coolant when it boils. You've been running hot enough to boil the coolant somewhere in the system. The Prestone flush will help get it out from where it's collecting.
By the way, I don't think that's stop leak. That's the crap that precipitates out of coolant when it boils. You've been running hot enough to boil the coolant somewhere in the system. The Prestone flush will help get it out from where it's collecting.
Last edited by extrashaky; 06-17-2016 at 09:13 AM.
#57
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Yep I70 will do that. Flush it repeatedly. Filling it with hose water really isn't that bad as long as you drain it out with distilled water later on. I filled my block with hose water 3-4 times when I replaced my cooling system. Don't want to leave it in long term just for mineral content.
#58
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Sign up for email rewards at Advance Auto, and you can use a $40 off $100 coupon (TRT41)
Radiator, Thermostat, and Thermostat Gasket for $75 before taxes. Can't get cheaper than that.
Much cheaper than pulling the head, please don't keep overheating it. At this point I think we can assume that you don't have an 0331 head
Radiator, Thermostat, and Thermostat Gasket for $75 before taxes. Can't get cheaper than that.
Much cheaper than pulling the head, please don't keep overheating it. At this point I think we can assume that you don't have an 0331 head
#59
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Sign up for email rewards at Advance Auto, and you can use a $40 off $100 coupon (TRT41) Radiator, Thermostat, and Thermostat Gasket for $75 before taxes. Can't get cheaper than that. Much cheaper than pulling the head, please don't keep overheating it. At this point I think we can assume that you don't have an 0331 head
#60
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Hah, got kgm and your profile pics confused. Flush the rad and see where it stands. Alot of those passages get really clogged and a simple flush doesn't clear out the actual tube. You need to "boil" it in muratic acid (what a radiator refurbishing place would do).
So either limp it till you can afford to have the radiator boiled and pressure/steam cleaned (costs about $35 at most radiator shops), or just throw a new radiator in when you can afford it.
So either limp it till you can afford to have the radiator boiled and pressure/steam cleaned (costs about $35 at most radiator shops), or just throw a new radiator in when you can afford it.