jstantherprsn

Hey Everyone,

I just drained the radiator and changed the the thermostat. I drilled a small hole in the stat to help with the burping. The prior stat I think was sticking.

I just put that stat back on (gasket and high temp rtv) and squeezed the lower hose and slowly filled up the radiator with distilled water and 1 super flush. I filled the reservoir up to near full. I ran it with it with the heater on high. Almost no heat was coming out.

Any suggestions to get the air out of the heater? I was thinking of just taking the heater hose off the stat, raise it up and fill it with coolant.


Any ideas?

nielsenml

Could be some accumulated junk in the heater core? Sounds like you did the right process to burp the system.

djb383

Try one of these on a garden hose to flush the heater core (both heater hoses disconnected from the engine). It's full of crud, not air.

jstantherprsn

I pulled each end off. I had the t stat wanting to push water (which is good). I then pulled the other side and had a little water coming out the line. I'm tempted to use this brass t and inserting it mid way and just taking the cap off. Do you think that would be a good idea instead of using the crap flush and fill t? I'm thinking that having the cap off would cause it to burp out any air since it would be the highest point in the hose before it curves back down to the control valve.


I just ran it a few miles up to the gas station and then down and around and did 4 miles on the highway. I put in that 193 autozone stat. The temp gauge didn't pass 210 (which is nice).

The heater did spew out some heat as I was sweating it out while driving it.

I'll cool it then drain it and hope that the upper hose at least filled up some.

nielsenml

Sounds good. Definitly use the brass tee. The plastic one will crack and bust in a year or two.

djb383

Are '93 XJs open or closed systems? If open system, there should not be a burping problem/issue.....with the engine idling (rad cap off, heater on), slowly add coolant mix 'til rad is full. Allow engine to idle and coolant to circulate until the t-stat opens. At this point, coolant/air will start to flow out the top of the rad....put the rad cap back on and fill the overflow bottle 1/2 between the 2 marks.....go for a short test drive, check for leaks. Next day (ENGINE COLD), remove the rad cap, add coolant to the rad and overflow bottle, if needed. Any T or extra fitting is a potential future leak. Use the garden hose as it will put more pressure, to remove the plug, than the water pump can.

jstantherprsn

Its an open system. I had my brass cap on my tee from the upper main hose off. So as I filled it like you said with it running I could see how everything was going. By the time I filled up the radiator and capped it. My upper hose T was about 3/4 the way full, then I topped it off and went for a 20 mile drive. About 70% of it was highway with some stop go. It sat a dash above 210 the entire time. Except for the stop go, stop go after alot of highway and a stop off at wawa. I saw it creeping up at the light half way to the next white line. Start driving highway and a mile later its back at the resting point at like 210-214.

djb383

Be sure to check it (ENGINE COLD) at the rad cap.