Stock leaf springs - Dorman
#1
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Stock leaf springs - Dorman
I recently installed stock dorman leaf springs, the same ones many people
have, but they are very soft. I drove through a dip fairly fast and the bump
(Street driving) stops slammed againts the axle tube.
Good thing I installed new stops at the same time.
Whats the best way to stiffen up the leaf springs/rear suspension?
Also, when I bought the bump stops there were two choices, I think it was
4" and 2.5" I went with the 4"
Also, the shocks are new but not a name brand.
have, but they are very soft. I drove through a dip fairly fast and the bump
(Street driving) stops slammed againts the axle tube.
Good thing I installed new stops at the same time.
Whats the best way to stiffen up the leaf springs/rear suspension?
Also, when I bought the bump stops there were two choices, I think it was
4" and 2.5" I went with the 4"
Also, the shocks are new but not a name brand.
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Yes on the snubs, shorter ones, and only way to keep stockish height and have firmer springs is to get the HD ones. Net usually 1" over stock unless you start going into OME and remove leafs and such. As for bottoming out. That happens to me and I'm lifted 4.5", run no sway bars. That's what snubbers are for. To protect shocks and fenders and to avoid metal to metal slamming against each other.
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So I will get the shorter stops. I was also reading up, maybe I should switch to so stiffer shocks.
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Adding a stiffer shock (more damping) will give a firmer ride but won't stop the leaf spring from compressing if you drive into a dip at speed. I don't think that's a solution. BTW, I put those larger axle snubs on mine, too; I ordered the wrong ones.
I haven't noticed any issue with bottoming as yet. My new Dorman leafs seem a good deal firmer than the worn out OEMs. I have a set of Monroe OESpectrum shocks. I'm very pleased.
I haven't noticed any issue with bottoming as yet. My new Dorman leafs seem a good deal firmer than the worn out OEMs. I have a set of Monroe OESpectrum shocks. I'm very pleased.
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Yes on the snubs, shorter ones, and only way to keep stockish height and have firmer springs is to get the HD ones. Net usually 1" over stock unless you start going into OME and remove leafs and such. As for bottoming out. That happens to me and I'm lifted 4.5", run no sway bars. That's what snubbers are for. To protect shocks and fenders and to avoid metal to metal slamming against each other.
Exactly if all else is new as you say and up to par.
As for the shocks those will depend a lot on where you drive the most and cheap shocks are just that cheap. I run Bilstein on both my XJ with a 4 1/2" lift and my 04 WJ stock DD a medium priced shock with good performance.
As your aware shocks can run from $10 to several hundred or more each so pick the best you can afford without breaking the bank.
#7
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How about something like this?
I know these are for worn out springs but I figure since I have new springs the load may be evenly distributed between them and the the helpers would not wear out as fast.
I decided I am going to go ahead with a custom rear bumper and I am afraid the extra weight will make the rear sag along with all the gear I have in the back.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fix...k-susp-131271/
I know these are for worn out springs but I figure since I have new springs the load may be evenly distributed between them and the the helpers would not wear out as fast.
I decided I am going to go ahead with a custom rear bumper and I am afraid the extra weight will make the rear sag along with all the gear I have in the back.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fix...k-susp-131271/
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#8
Beach Bum
The longer bump stops are limiting up-travel. Replacing them with correct size would be the first step.
If you want to see what is going on, crawl under it with a tape measure. Measure from bumpstop to axle tube, this how much 'up' is allowed.
Then measure the remaining up-travel of shock, this is how much 'up' that is available.
If you want to see what is going on, crawl under it with a tape measure. Measure from bumpstop to axle tube, this how much 'up' is allowed.
Then measure the remaining up-travel of shock, this is how much 'up' that is available.
#9
Beach Bum
Or, BDS 7-leafs.
Up front, Prothane inserts
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The bump stops hitting is one issue, more important is that these new leaf springs seem very soft and I can foresee the rear sagging lower than the front pretty soon.
I am wondering if those helper springs would be too stiff, they are only like 40 bucks.
After I replaced both the leaf and the coil springs I was worried about the rear being much higher, now im worried the rear will sag.
I am wondering if those helper springs would be too stiff, they are only like 40 bucks.
After I replaced both the leaf and the coil springs I was worried about the rear being much higher, now im worried the rear will sag.
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Have you actually loaded your XJ as planned to see how much the added weigh causes the rear to "sag"? If you do that and confirm your worry about sagging, it would tell me you should have upgraded to a spring with a greater load rate. The Dormans I installed will carry in 400lbs in the rear cargo area without much compression.
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I loaded up my camping gear, spare tire and some other stuff and the rear end lowered quite a bit, I figured the stock springs would be fine. I did not want HD springs because I did not want it too be too stiff.
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Have you actually loaded your XJ as planned to see how much the added weigh causes the rear to "sag"? If you do that and confirm your worry about sagging, it would tell me you should have upgraded to a spring with a greater load rate. The Dormans I installed will carry in 400lbs in the rear cargo area without much compression.