Steering play
08-21-2016, 10:29 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Steering play
Ive searched the entire internet for months trying to fix the "play" in my steering wheel. Ive checked all the components under the jeep and they all seem fine. Ive tightened the steering gear adjustment about a 1/8-1/4 turn still there but a little better. Last night i replaced the steering gearbox with a reman from Oreilys and it still has play but it feels different like it doenst wanna return to center. Today i noticed that the play is on the input shaft of the gear box. i can move it by hand from about 11-1 o'clock on the steering wheel with no movement on the pitman arm. Is the steering gear i just bought crap?
i can do this without and movement on pitman arm. The tiny ujoints look fine. its lust like there is a ton of input with no output. any help would be appreciated.
i can do this without and movement on pitman arm. The tiny ujoints look fine. its lust like there is a ton of input with no output. any help would be appreciated.
08-21-2016, 11:38 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I will for sure. It's my biggest complaint about Internet forums when someone fixes the issue they never post back saying the culprit. I thought for sure after all my research that it was the steering gear but no luck unless my new one is junk.
08-21-2016, 12:37 PM
#4
Seasoned Member
So you mean you just have a lot of slop in the steering wheel?
Certainly not saying it'll be a fix for yours, but mine had a lot of slop in it for the longest time. Like the wheel just wasn't tight.
Well I recently replaced my clock spring because my air bag light was usually on and cruise didn't work.
Now my steering wheel is nice and tight and responsive. Like surprisingly tight and responsive. Might be something to look into, especially if your cruise control doesn't work.
... Did that guy in the video have a gun in the back of his pants?
Certainly not saying it'll be a fix for yours, but mine had a lot of slop in it for the longest time. Like the wheel just wasn't tight.
Well I recently replaced my clock spring because my air bag light was usually on and cruise didn't work.
Now my steering wheel is nice and tight and responsive. Like surprisingly tight and responsive. Might be something to look into, especially if your cruise control doesn't work.
... Did that guy in the video have a gun in the back of his pants?
08-21-2016, 12:58 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
yes i think he did, i found the video on youtube so its wasn't my buddy lol. As for your fix I'm not sure that will work for me being I'm not having those issues but if it comes down to it after I've replaced everything else i will give it a shot.
08-21-2016, 02:15 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
went back to Oreilys, their going to get me a new one to see if thats the issue. Lucky me i get to spend another $10 on power steering fluid. At least my pitman arm should come off easy. One upside is my steering wobble (not death wobble but pretty significant) at 50 MPH is nearly gone after the gearbox replacement.
08-21-2016, 06:44 PM
#7
CF Veteran
not to sound ignorant, but what is a clock spring?
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08-24-2016, 01:33 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Via wiki
In vehicle steering systems a clock spring or clockspring is a spiral-wound special rotary electrical connector which allows a vehicle's steering wheel to turn while still making an electrical connection between the steering wheel airbag and/or the vehicle's horn and other devices and the vehicle's electrical systems. The clockspring is located between the steering wheel and the steering column.
In vehicle steering systems a clock spring or clockspring is a spiral-wound special rotary electrical connector which allows a vehicle's steering wheel to turn while still making an electrical connection between the steering wheel airbag and/or the vehicle's horn and other devices and the vehicle's electrical systems. The clockspring is located between the steering wheel and the steering column.
08-24-2016, 09:55 AM
#9
CF Veteran
Work from the steering wheel down to isolate where the play is occurring.
With an assistant at the wheel, have them gently rock the steering wheel back and forth, just a small amount. Perhaps 1 inch or less.
Between the steering column and the steering gear is the intermediate shaft, also sometimes called the steering shaft. This is the one with the 2 small non-servicable u-joints.
Grab the steering shaft tightly near the top while the assistant continues to rock the wheel. Do this at the top, the middle and bottom of the shaft. The shaft can develop play at either of the u-joints, but more importantly at the rubber isolator that is pressed into the shaft just below the uppermost u-joint.
It is common for this rubber sleeve to separate and will allow the steering shaft to have play. You won't lose steering because there are metal tabs that limit the amount the shaft can play. But because the rubber is no longer holding the inner/outer sleeves of the shaft together, there will be play.
If there is play in the steering shaft. Find a replacement (Crown still sells one). Or a good condition JY pull. I even saw one post where someone permanently welded the two parts that the rubber connects, such that they were solidly coupled. This will work too, but you'll loose the benefit of a rubber isolator in the steering shaft that helps reduce vibration in the steering wheel.
After checking this shaft all the way down to the steering gear, you should be able to detect if the play is prior to the steering gear or starts at the steering gear.
If the steering shaft is good (no play), and the steering gear is receiving its input from the steering shaft with no play, then you need to check the play between the steering gear input and the steering gear output. You can do this by putting one hand on the input of the steering gear, and one hand on the pitman arm while someone continues to rock the steering wheel. They should move in coordination without much detectable play.
If you get past this point, then you can continue to move down by looking for play between the pitman arm, down the drag-link to to the passenger side outer tie rod end that connects to the steering knuckle. Once again, placing a hand on the tie-rod ends at either end of the drag link (one at the pitman arm, one at the steering knuckled) while the assistant rocks the steering wheel.
As you move down the chain, the assistant will probably have to rock the steering wheel a little more and more for you to inspect.
Once you have isolated the play, you'll know where to concentrate your effort and money.
Btw, forget the clock spring. It is not relevant here. While it may make the steering wheel feel a little firmer (when the clock spring is brand new). It will neither cause or cure actual play in the steering system.
With an assistant at the wheel, have them gently rock the steering wheel back and forth, just a small amount. Perhaps 1 inch or less.
Between the steering column and the steering gear is the intermediate shaft, also sometimes called the steering shaft. This is the one with the 2 small non-servicable u-joints.
Grab the steering shaft tightly near the top while the assistant continues to rock the wheel. Do this at the top, the middle and bottom of the shaft. The shaft can develop play at either of the u-joints, but more importantly at the rubber isolator that is pressed into the shaft just below the uppermost u-joint.
It is common for this rubber sleeve to separate and will allow the steering shaft to have play. You won't lose steering because there are metal tabs that limit the amount the shaft can play. But because the rubber is no longer holding the inner/outer sleeves of the shaft together, there will be play.
If there is play in the steering shaft. Find a replacement (Crown still sells one). Or a good condition JY pull. I even saw one post where someone permanently welded the two parts that the rubber connects, such that they were solidly coupled. This will work too, but you'll loose the benefit of a rubber isolator in the steering shaft that helps reduce vibration in the steering wheel.
After checking this shaft all the way down to the steering gear, you should be able to detect if the play is prior to the steering gear or starts at the steering gear.
If the steering shaft is good (no play), and the steering gear is receiving its input from the steering shaft with no play, then you need to check the play between the steering gear input and the steering gear output. You can do this by putting one hand on the input of the steering gear, and one hand on the pitman arm while someone continues to rock the steering wheel. They should move in coordination without much detectable play.
If you get past this point, then you can continue to move down by looking for play between the pitman arm, down the drag-link to to the passenger side outer tie rod end that connects to the steering knuckle. Once again, placing a hand on the tie-rod ends at either end of the drag link (one at the pitman arm, one at the steering knuckled) while the assistant rocks the steering wheel.
As you move down the chain, the assistant will probably have to rock the steering wheel a little more and more for you to inspect.
Once you have isolated the play, you'll know where to concentrate your effort and money.
Btw, forget the clock spring. It is not relevant here. While it may make the steering wheel feel a little firmer (when the clock spring is brand new). It will neither cause or cure actual play in the steering system.
Last edited by jordan96xj; 08-24-2016 at 09:58 AM.
08-24-2016, 12:55 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Work from the steering wheel down to isolate where the play is occurring.
With an assistant at the wheel, have them gently rock the steering wheel back and forth, just a small amount. Perhaps 1 inch or less.
Between the steering column and the steering gear is the intermediate shaft, also sometimes called the steering shaft. This is the one with the 2 small non-servicable u-joints.
Grab the steering shaft tightly near the top while the assistant continues to rock the wheel. Do this at the top, the middle and bottom of the shaft. The shaft can develop play at either of the u-joints, but more importantly at the rubber isolator that is pressed into the shaft just below the uppermost u-joint.
It is common for this rubber sleeve to separate and will allow the steering shaft to have play. You won't lose steering because there are metal tabs that limit the amount the shaft can play. But because the rubber is no longer holding the inner/outer sleeves of the shaft together, there will be play.
If there is play in the steering shaft. Find a replacement (Crown still sells one). Or a good condition JY pull. I even saw one post where someone permanently welded the two parts that the rubber connects, such that they were solidly coupled. This will work too, but you'll loose the benefit of a rubber isolator in the steering shaft that helps reduce vibration in the steering wheel.
After checking this shaft all the way down to the steering gear, you should be able to detect if the play is prior to the steering gear or starts at the steering gear.
If the steering shaft is good (no play), and the steering gear is receiving its input from the steering shaft with no play, then you need to check the play between the steering gear input and the steering gear output. You can do this by putting one hand on the input of the steering gear, and one hand on the pitman arm while someone continues to rock the steering wheel. They should move in coordination without much detectable play.
If you get past this point, then you can continue to move down by looking for play between the pitman arm, down the drag-link to to the passenger side outer tie rod end that connects to the steering knuckle. Once again, placing a hand on the tie-rod ends at either end of the drag link (one at the pitman arm, one at the steering knuckled) while the assistant rocks the steering wheel.
As you move down the chain, the assistant will probably have to rock the steering wheel a little more and more for you to inspect.
Once you have isolated the play, you'll know where to concentrate your effort and money.
Btw, forget the clock spring. It is not relevant here. While it may make the steering wheel feel a little firmer (when the clock spring is brand new). It will neither cause or cure actual play in the steering system.
With an assistant at the wheel, have them gently rock the steering wheel back and forth, just a small amount. Perhaps 1 inch or less.
Between the steering column and the steering gear is the intermediate shaft, also sometimes called the steering shaft. This is the one with the 2 small non-servicable u-joints.
Grab the steering shaft tightly near the top while the assistant continues to rock the wheel. Do this at the top, the middle and bottom of the shaft. The shaft can develop play at either of the u-joints, but more importantly at the rubber isolator that is pressed into the shaft just below the uppermost u-joint.
It is common for this rubber sleeve to separate and will allow the steering shaft to have play. You won't lose steering because there are metal tabs that limit the amount the shaft can play. But because the rubber is no longer holding the inner/outer sleeves of the shaft together, there will be play.
If there is play in the steering shaft. Find a replacement (Crown still sells one). Or a good condition JY pull. I even saw one post where someone permanently welded the two parts that the rubber connects, such that they were solidly coupled. This will work too, but you'll loose the benefit of a rubber isolator in the steering shaft that helps reduce vibration in the steering wheel.
After checking this shaft all the way down to the steering gear, you should be able to detect if the play is prior to the steering gear or starts at the steering gear.
If the steering shaft is good (no play), and the steering gear is receiving its input from the steering shaft with no play, then you need to check the play between the steering gear input and the steering gear output. You can do this by putting one hand on the input of the steering gear, and one hand on the pitman arm while someone continues to rock the steering wheel. They should move in coordination without much detectable play.
If you get past this point, then you can continue to move down by looking for play between the pitman arm, down the drag-link to to the passenger side outer tie rod end that connects to the steering knuckle. Once again, placing a hand on the tie-rod ends at either end of the drag link (one at the pitman arm, one at the steering knuckled) while the assistant rocks the steering wheel.
As you move down the chain, the assistant will probably have to rock the steering wheel a little more and more for you to inspect.
Once you have isolated the play, you'll know where to concentrate your effort and money.
Btw, forget the clock spring. It is not relevant here. While it may make the steering wheel feel a little firmer (when the clock spring is brand new). It will neither cause or cure actual play in the steering system.
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TruckD (04-21-2022)
08-24-2016, 01:10 PM
#12
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
First of all this is purely my personal experience talking. With that said; my XJ (93) had steering play since the day I brought it home and ruled it out to just driving an older lifted vehicle. After a while I began replacing steering components one by one with each one making a small improvement but could not get rid of the play. Also one of the reasons I'm putting in my .02 is that after two years of dealing with it... I had used Oreilly's steering pump and reman steering gear (three times on each)... turns out in my case the pump wasn't putting out enough and the reman boxes suck. I ended up going high end with PSC (which you don't need to do) to be done with it and guess what...no more play. However I would start with jordan96xj's advise first, cause that's free and it should eliminate guess work. ^^^^^
~Good Luck!
P.S. Not throwing Oreily's under the bus, just had bad luck with these parts...
~Good Luck!
P.S. Not throwing Oreily's under the bus, just had bad luck with these parts...
08-24-2016, 11:57 PM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help gents. Knowing the slop was in the steering gear saved me some steps. I took out my old (new) steering gear I got two days ago and brought it back to oreillys I do like the lifetime warranty and picked up a new one. Something about this one just seemed different like it was actually referbed lol. Anyway got it installed flushed and refilled the pump/gear and walla steers like it was brand new. I'm super stoked it worked out I was getting close to buying a $400 one. Thanks again for all the replies. For those having the same issue; yes even a "new" steering gear can be bad.
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rkirsch107@gmail.com (02-20-2020)
08-25-2016, 05:08 AM
#15
CF Veteran
Good deal thanks for letting us know. I might be going on a limb here but it does seem with Jeep that a lot of the so called rebuilt stuff is not rebuilt so well, case in point was a rebuilt starter I got for the xj a few years ago, that simply went klunk when you hit the key. So I wonder if there is something to a combined high demand for rebuilt parts and a little lack on the supply side that causes just plain bad parts to make it to market more often. just my musings.