snapped leaf spring bolt with pics, how would you remove???
#1
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Model: Cherokee
snapped leaf spring bolt with pics, how would you remove???
so i was taking a look at my cherokee trying to figure some repairs, and i noticed the front bolt on the driver side leaf spring was loose, went through all the work to jack it up and guess what it's a snapped bolt
so now i have to figure out what I'm going to do since jeep is so awesome that the weld the nut inside the damn frame. I'm leaning towards drill/tap/die but if you know of a nut extractor thats big/strong enough or any other ways that might be a little easier please let me know. it's always something.
so now i have to figure out what I'm going to do since jeep is so awesome that the weld the nut inside the damn frame. I'm leaning towards drill/tap/die but if you know of a nut extractor thats big/strong enough or any other ways that might be a little easier please let me know. it's always something.
#4
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use a grinder and cut a slot in the frame mount just below the nut, then use a chisel and knock the nut off the frame. then just use a wrench on a replacement nut.
been there, done that.
been there, done that.
#5
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Drilling it out would be a good idea, I would use a bolt extractor combined with heat from a torch before I would tap it. Reason is, is because you could damage the old threads if you don't get the tap just perfect with the old threads while your trying to make new ones. Sounds complicated but once you screw up the old threads you would have to tap it a larger bolt size. I don't know if you could use a larger bolt.
#6
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and than what weld it back shut? do you have any pics of this method or more details, it seems like it would be soo much easier than drilling and tapping lol.
#7
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Year: 2000
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dang that sucks i would cut into the floor or behind it to get it out that way you don't wreck the treads when drilling and soak the hell out of it with bpblaster or similar for a few days first
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#8
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Year: '92
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I have some pics from when I did it if you wish to them?
#9
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i've been soaking it with pb blaster but i think i'm gonna end up doing like caged said and just cut out a small spot under the nut, knock the nut off and than just wrench a new nut and bolt in there and paint it up to help slow the rusting. idk maybe someone else with experience with this problem will give me a better idea.
#10
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Year: '92
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i've been soaking it with pb blaster but i think i'm gonna end up doing like caged said and just cut out a small spot under the nut, knock the nut off and than just wrench a new nut and bolt in there and paint it up to help slow the rusting. idk maybe someone else with experience with this problem will give me a better idea.
#11
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havensov if you can't post the pics here for myself and anyone else that has this issue could you please email them to dtaylor8821@yahoo.com. i was hoping someone would post with experience and pics. thank you sooo much.
#12
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Year: '92
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With mine I had broke the welds of the nut, but ended up in the same spot you are.
Heres what mine looked like.
I pulled back the carpet in front of the seat and eye balled the hole and drilled a hole as a start point, You will be very close the raised part of the floor that your rear seat sits on. About 5 or 6 inches in from your inner door.
Then wedged up the sheet metal with my sawsall and a pry bar. The floor sheet metal is very thin and easy to get through. Once through you will see that the sleeve that nut is sitting in is open on the top and you can get to it easily. Plus you not hacking into the braket or the frame.
Then pulled the offending nut out with a pair of long needle nose pliers...
You will have to knock the nut loose and then pull it out.
Then get the new nut in the same way and hold it with the pliers. I put a lock nut on the outside of the bolts so it would grab once I got it tight.
I got the bolts and nuts from Tractor Supply Company here, by taking one of the good ones in and matching the size. they didn't have any metric but I found a harden one that worked and replaced both of mine.
Once done I hammered down the floor flat and used some POR 15 to fill in the rest, then relayed the carpet.
I hope this helps.
Heres what mine looked like.
I pulled back the carpet in front of the seat and eye balled the hole and drilled a hole as a start point, You will be very close the raised part of the floor that your rear seat sits on. About 5 or 6 inches in from your inner door.
Then wedged up the sheet metal with my sawsall and a pry bar. The floor sheet metal is very thin and easy to get through. Once through you will see that the sleeve that nut is sitting in is open on the top and you can get to it easily. Plus you not hacking into the braket or the frame.
Then pulled the offending nut out with a pair of long needle nose pliers...
You will have to knock the nut loose and then pull it out.
Then get the new nut in the same way and hold it with the pliers. I put a lock nut on the outside of the bolts so it would grab once I got it tight.
I got the bolts and nuts from Tractor Supply Company here, by taking one of the good ones in and matching the size. they didn't have any metric but I found a harden one that worked and replaced both of mine.
Once done I hammered down the floor flat and used some POR 15 to fill in the rest, then relayed the carpet.
I hope this helps.
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Year: 1998, 1999
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Anyone ever try a Heli-Coil? They work well... I had to use one on an engine head bolt years ago that must have come cross threaded from the factory. Held up very well. A little drilling, tapping, insert the Heli-Coil and your done... Might have to get creative and weld an extension onto the tap and heli-coil handle...
Ahhh, nevermind, better stick with drilling the hole from inside the cabin. Do not cut a hole in your uni-body from underneath if you can help it. You will effect the structural integrity of the unibody.
Ahhh, nevermind, better stick with drilling the hole from inside the cabin. Do not cut a hole in your uni-body from underneath if you can help it. You will effect the structural integrity of the unibody.
#14
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here's what i did.
5 years like this with some hard wheelin. not a worry.
i was able to stick a wrench in there and remove the stock bolt, then just replace it with a new nut.
i take my leafs out every season, so this makes it easier than welding it shut again, or going through the floor and welding a patch there.
but either or, you can go through the floor just as easy. but i have no carpet, and didn't want a hole there, or a patch for that matter.
5 years like this with some hard wheelin. not a worry.
i was able to stick a wrench in there and remove the stock bolt, then just replace it with a new nut.
i take my leafs out every season, so this makes it easier than welding it shut again, or going through the floor and welding a patch there.
but either or, you can go through the floor just as easy. but i have no carpet, and didn't want a hole there, or a patch for that matter.