2001XJWeekender

I have 2001 XJ with a Zone Offroad 3" lift (awesome products!).

Noticed during install that the rear rubber brake line that runs from the axle to the frame mount would stretch under rear end flex.

I ordered a replacement YJ rear brake hose which is a few inches longer.

Inspecting the metal tube that runs from the engine to the rear end, it is badly corroded at the rear end bracket. I imagine this thing will crack and spew brake fluid when I start turning a wrench on it.

So, as a preemptive strike I may just replace the line altogether with this.


1) How hard is it to custom form this type of tube to the frame replacing the OEM one?

2) I can rent the tools (flare, bleeder, etc.), how hard is this project (I am no mechanic)?

3) Is it easier to just cut the corroded tube portion off and install a short extension piece at the rear end bracket?


Thanks,


K

TrekkerJmm

Hi and welcome to CF. I would replace the whole line and be done with it. I replaced mine after my 4 3/4 in Zone kit and it wasn't hard at all. You could "Gravity bleed" the lines if no-one is around to help. Good Luck...Tj

imenthused281

I'd like to x2 the questions asked by the OP. I hope I'm not threadjacking here, because my question is basically the same.

I need to replace the lines on my Cherokee, both front and rear (they are rusted and won't pass inspection). I've only had my Jeep for about a month and know fairly little about mechanics. I've managed to pick up a few bits and pieces here and there by searching the forums, but is there anything out there in the way of a how-to/write-up? I'm not even 100 percent sure where the lines are on my car.

Who wants to help a super-noob?

2Evil4U

Here's a writeup I did on replacing the entire rear brake system including the lines on my 1997.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...-8-25-a-58947/

Comments for the OP.

That is a good price for the parts from Amazon. And I think it includes the correct fitting for the front where it ties into the proportioning valve. (I had to reuse the front fitting on mine.)

1 - Not hard at all to form. I didn't need the bender to run the line from the front to the back. I was able to just snake it down and drag it through where it needed to go.

2 - The hardest part is flaring the ends properly. Practice a few times. I've found that filing a bevel on the outside of the tubing end before starting the flare process helps immensely in getting the double flare correct.

3 - You can only do this if you use a double flare coupling to connect the pieces. Compression fittings are illegal in braking systems.

imenthused281

Thanks for the link to the write-up, I think that will be helpful!

NH_Jeep_XJ

Another option is to buy the entire one piece line from the dealer which is only like $35-$40. it is already flared and has the fittings and everything.
It will save you the bending and flaring.

While the vehicle is sitting level. Clip the tie wraps on the existing lines, they (Gas,Vacuum,Brakes)are all bundled and tie wrapped together and fit into clips along the frame rail.
This will allow you to unclip the existing lines providing more room for the new one.

Lift the front of the vehicle slightly and work the line which is kind of L shaped back along the drivers side rail using the front end clearance to wiggle around obstructions.
The line is pretty springy too so it's not too bad wiggling it through. If you run into too much resistance, simply slide backward or forward to gain the rotational range of motion you need to get it through.
If it doesn't fit somewhere, you could then use a pipe bender to motivate it.

The good thing about this is that it's the same line as the one your replacing so once it's in there it's all pointing in the right directions to clip into the clips.

Tube Brake, Union to Rear is what it is called.

Heres the part number for Non ABS:

'99 OEM Parts Catalog
5212 7967
TUBE, Brake, Union to Rear


For ABS its:

5200 9067 Brake Tube, HCU to Union Rear

tsemper95

thank you

97grand4.0

AZ has copper-nickel lines with flares and fittings, just like steel lines, in lengths..50", 60" 10" etc..little pricey,, just did mine yesterday and 4 lines came to $50 but you dont have to worry about flare tool and making your own flares. Or you can buy 50 feet for about $1 a foot. idk if this is the type system you have.
Also they have for about $10 a self bleeder bottle. I bought one 5 years ago still use it all the time. One man bleeding and its the best thing ever for bleeding.

BlueRidgeMark

Speed bleeders are a one-man show, and very easy to use.