Replacing rear main seal
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replacing rear main seal
I'm replacing my rear main seal on Saturday. I know I need a tarp, a torque wrench, sockets, rachet. The seal. What else should I need?
Any other parts? Anything?
Thanks guys
Any other parts? Anything?
Thanks guys
#3
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Hollidaysburg, PA
Posts: 5,603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 lt. 242 cu.in.
a small screwdriver, and a pair of needle nose pliers. the screwdriver is to push on end of the seal thats in the block, and the needle nose are for pulling it out on the other side.
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Schnecksville, PA
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A GOOD metal putty knife- to help break up the old pan gasket. While the pan is "STUCK" to the motor...use it to pry into the gasket and give a tap on the end.
Rubber mallet: XJ's do not like having thier "internals" messed with. The pan will put up a fight. Gotta show it who's boss.
Patience: This may be hard to come by, but it is a necessity.
If not enough of this can be found... BEER makes a good substitute.
Rubber mallet: XJ's do not like having thier "internals" messed with. The pan will put up a fight. Gotta show it who's boss.
Patience: This may be hard to come by, but it is a necessity.
If not enough of this can be found... BEER makes a good substitute.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright anything else anyone can think of?
Looks like as we go on, everyone has there own procedures for this repair.
Good stuff so far, I can see how these materials could prove to be very essential.
Looks like as we go on, everyone has there own procedures for this repair.
Good stuff so far, I can see how these materials could prove to be very essential.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Yelm Wa
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
do you know how to do this? Here are afew very good write up. i used them my first time.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
This is the one i used^ very good.
http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
EDIT:
You may need A BFH i did and that **** came right out.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
This is the one i used^ very good.
http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
EDIT:
You may need A BFH i did and that **** came right out.
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
do you know how to do this? Here are afew very good write up. i used them my first time.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
This is the one i used^ very good.
http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
EDIT:
You may need A BFH i did and that **** came right out.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
This is the one i used^ very good.
http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
EDIT:
You may need A BFH i did and that **** came right out.
Thanks
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Awesome. Thanks alot.
How about what not to do's? Did anyone make any mistakes I should avoid?
Or is it fairly easy.
How about what not to do's? Did anyone make any mistakes I should avoid?
Or is it fairly easy.
#11
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bothell
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
yeah, DONT TOUCH THE CRANK OR LOWER PISTON RODS...... and make sure you note the 2 different sizes on the oil pan. i had 3 slightly larger bolts than the other that went all the way around. where the rear main seal curve is along the oil pan, there will be a "c" brace, dont lose that or misplace the bolts and note how it came out
#13
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Austintown, OH
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks like i'll be doing this at my next oil change. I already bought the rear main seal gasket, and i'm going to be picking up the oil pan gasket in the future.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bristol,Pa
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
When you go to remove the upper half of the seal, look CAREFULLY. You will see a round piece of metal embedded within the seal itself. THIS is what you use a small drift on to tap the seal around and out. DO NOT wedge the drift between the crank and this metal and expect to NOT damage your crankshaft.
Also, dont cheap out and save a few dollars by buying the cheaper seal/gasket. You want the Fel-Pro DUAL LIP rear main seal and FEL-Pro one piece oilpan gasket. You will have much better chances of little to no weapage with these parts.
Also, dont cheap out and save a few dollars by buying the cheaper seal/gasket. You want the Fel-Pro DUAL LIP rear main seal and FEL-Pro one piece oilpan gasket. You will have much better chances of little to no weapage with these parts.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: christchurch new zealand
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: stock
as 1990 cherokee says , read a write up , i printed one off and had it in the shead when i did mine , tis not a bad job, i drained my oil about a hour before i started...good luck let us know how ya go...