mtnance

After hearing about the steering wheel "trick", it worked like a charm, though I didn't use a 3" extension because it kept popping off. (A 2.75" extension would have worked) I finally used a 2x3 and wedged it in. One side eased out fairly quick (left side) The right side didn't want to pop out, so I started the Jeep and used the power in power steering and eased it over and it jarred it loose. This was a very good tip.

I didn't know however that the u-joints had "internal" c-clips. I had only replaced ones with a clips on the outside. Since these had been there since the production line, they were frozen as well. Ended up having an axle specialist press the old ones off and new ones on. $50 was the charge (each). I would have rather not spent the $100, but there's something to be said about not having to struggle with it for hours. I also didn't know I couldn't replace the bearings in the hub and that I had to buy the whole hub. Fortunately, the guy that pressed on the u-joints sold me a set of hubs (unk what brand but it was what he highly reccomended) for $130 (pair) and also install them on the axles. So, for $290 I basically have a new rebuilt front axle. Since it's roughly $500 - $600 to drive in a shop and have it done,...I feel okay, plus the now-know-better experience.

(I did use anti-seize on the reinstall of the hub and the hub bolts. Torqued the hub nut to 175 lbs. and the hub bolts to 75 lbs.)

Final question on this: Does it matter if the brake dust shield was left off? It's thin but I didn't know if would make a difference in the spacing since it does go between. I installed the right axle and forgot to put it on. On the left, it's on. Will that make a difference in the spline contact?