mtnance

If I remove the 3 bolts on the inside of the wheel hub, shouldn't the axle slip right out without having to remove the bearing assembly? I'm just replacing the u-joints and would rather not disassemble more than I need to.

BuckB91XJ

The three bolts on the inside of the hub that you removed are what holds the hub on. Once you remove those three bolts you can pull the whole axle and hub assembly right out. Now, the hub can rust to the knuckle assembly so you may have to use some PB or smack it with a BFH. I had three extra hub bolts so I just sacrificed them and got the hub off by backing them halfway out and smacking them with a hammer until the hub broke free.

BuckB91XJ

The hub does have to come out in order to get the axle out.

RenegadeT

correct, the hub has to come out to pull the shaft. you can leave the giant nut attached to the hub, and pull the hub/shaft as one...but then its a PITA to swap U-joints. I like to take the hub bearing off first. Instead of beating sacrificial bolts, I'll use a Craftsman 12-pt socket (never broke one yet, but I won't be worried if it does).
On reassembly, slather the hub bore and 3 hub bolts with anti-seize, you'll appreciate it next time you have to take it all apart.

mtnance

That's what I was thinking. In fact, I've removed everything except, like you said, the hub is freakishly frozen to the knuckle. I pounded a bit, but then got a little worried about breaking something in half. Since I am short on time and have to move the car tongiht, I'm putting it back together for another day. (Plus to get some extra bolts, or find a 12 point socket to sacrifice) Learning curve.....now I know.

Do you know what they are supposed to be torqued when reinstalling those bolts?

RenegadeT

the 3 hub bolts should be 75 ft-lbs, then the big nut is 175 ft-lbs. That big one is very important, it holds everything together.

DFlintstone

Hey Buck...do you have any thoughts or info on using a 3" extension and the Power Steering to push that thing free? I did one long ago (BFH) I suppose, but need to get into mine again and have seen posts on pushing it off with the steering. Thoughts?

mike mike

This what I did. Socket and extension on front bolt that was taken almost out, turn steering wheel so extension comes against steering stop, little more pressure on the steering wheel and unit bearing popped right out. Don't need motor runnig

DFlintstone

Yea..I have seen that posted, and thanks! It looks like Buck has a little "mud cred", (as opposed to "street cred! lol.) Of course it will go one way or the other...I suppose the belt will just slip if it's really comfy staying right where it is.....doubt anything will bend that wouldn't if the wheel was just somehow stuck..... Or?

I'm well on my way to finding out what happens if you just ignore a bad front, right, axle , u-joint on a 90/w the vac disco. Hey! A "grease load" in the 20 gauge? (just for now of course).

jomps

this works so well

mr white

That's what I do.

f i s h e r

Another cool trick that works well if you are worried about blowing the bearing apart with a bfh for removal is to temporarily leave the axle nut tight but remove the three hub bolts. Then you can beat the bearing out of place and it is still well intact because it is still sandwiched between the backside of the axle and the axle nut. As soon as it comes loose, hit the axle nut with the impact and boom! I do this at the shop all the time on dodge pickups and jeeps when the bearing is being stubborn and my array of expensive snapon tools doesn't seem to be doing the trick!

Metmknice

There is some "tech" on this over at Naxja. After you lossen/remove all three screws, reinstall one part way. Then wedge a 2x4 in between and use the steering method.

BuckB91XJ

I have read about this steering method working very well for other guys. I personally have never tried it. Try, it out. If it works for you rock on!! I just used the BFH method with a set of extra sacrificial bolts on mine the first time i ever took mine apart. I slather the bolt threads and bearing to knuckle surface with antisieze after every removal so I've never had a problem getting mine apart again. In fact, I can now just remove the three hub bolts, grab the hub and pull the axle shaft out just like that. You will have to use a 12 point socket because thats the way the bolt heads are....and yes 75 ft. lbs. torque on the hub bolts.

DFlintstone

Thanks Buck, (and everybody). Well mtnance , looks like we are loaded for Bear!