Rear floor pan replacement.
#31
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 liter
#33
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Location: Olean NY where salt eats jeeps
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Look at this!!!
For the whole front--http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946?osCsid=e9397b922d174e4578eaee435753e828
For the rear--http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946?osCsid=e9397b922d174e4578eaee435753e828
I think it is really worth it!!!
For the whole front--http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946?osCsid=e9397b922d174e4578eaee435753e828
For the rear--http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3121_3123_3136/products_id/23946?osCsid=e9397b922d174e4578eaee435753e828
I think it is really worth it!!!
#36
POR-15
If you are taking the time to cut out all that rust and you should do so!!
POR-15 will take care of the rest. It works great on surface rust and for preventing anymore rust from spreading like cancer.. I used POR-15 and then Henry 208-R rubberized roofing asphalt (good sound deadener) and then a bed liner. 1 gallon of each. I have no rust and no complaints yet.. Upstate NY everything turns to rust.
POR-15 is a good under coating as well.
POR-15 will take care of the rest. It works great on surface rust and for preventing anymore rust from spreading like cancer.. I used POR-15 and then Henry 208-R rubberized roofing asphalt (good sound deadener) and then a bed liner. 1 gallon of each. I have no rust and no complaints yet.. Upstate NY everything turns to rust.
POR-15 is a good under coating as well.
#38
does it seem odd that almost all 1995 XJ's have rusted? I just bought one with noticing any rust until i removed the carpet. I don't know what to do. Any suggestions? The entire body is rusted. Thanks
#39
all rusted
They make floor pans etc. some fit well some a little to a lot off, mixed opinions. Most people will fab their own floor pans and go from there. Its not too hard and can be done with hand tools Avaition snips (harbor freight) work great, and cheap. The question is what are you going to do with it? Trail rig only, or a little of both?
Either way you have to cut the rust out and then put new metal. You can use thin sheet metal, but I suggest not to skimp on the thickness of the metal. POR 15 works well as a rust convertor and barrier for new rust, but you need a lot and it is $$$$. I really like this product it works wonderfully.
Spot welding works the best, riviting also works, which is what I did to mine as well with no complaints so far. If your doors are rusty and rocker panels etc. you'll need new sheet metal/panels, Quadrtec will get you started, but look around for the best prices they seem to run high on certain things. Rusty Offroad is a good place for parts as well.
Frankoz (The smoking Baby) is a good source of info and ideas for your XJ.
You can also tube frame that weak uni-body, I have seen a couple of different styles and they pretty good but you need to be able to weld. Uni-body supports work great as well (Rustys Offroad and detourusa) can help.
I hope that get you started, and Yes you are right they all rust out, just not 95's bad design I guess.
I hope you have it up and running soon.
Either way you have to cut the rust out and then put new metal. You can use thin sheet metal, but I suggest not to skimp on the thickness of the metal. POR 15 works well as a rust convertor and barrier for new rust, but you need a lot and it is $$$$. I really like this product it works wonderfully.
Spot welding works the best, riviting also works, which is what I did to mine as well with no complaints so far. If your doors are rusty and rocker panels etc. you'll need new sheet metal/panels, Quadrtec will get you started, but look around for the best prices they seem to run high on certain things. Rusty Offroad is a good place for parts as well.
Frankoz (The smoking Baby) is a good source of info and ideas for your XJ.
You can also tube frame that weak uni-body, I have seen a couple of different styles and they pretty good but you need to be able to weld. Uni-body supports work great as well (Rustys Offroad and detourusa) can help.
I hope that get you started, and Yes you are right they all rust out, just not 95's bad design I guess.
I hope you have it up and running soon.
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Florida
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
anyone ever use fiberglass to patch small holes? I have some front floor pan issues but don't know that I need to do any metal work.
#41
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Location: PA
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#42
They make floor pans etc. some fit well some a little to a lot off, mixed opinions. Most people will fab their own floor pans and go from there. Its not too hard and can be done with hand tools Avaition snips (harbor freight) work great, and cheap. The question is what are you going to do with it? Trail rig only, or a little of both?
Either way you have to cut the rust out and then put new metal. You can use thin sheet metal, but I suggest not to skimp on the thickness of the metal. POR 15 works well as a rust convertor and barrier for new rust, but you need a lot and it is $$$$. I really like this product it works wonderfully.
Spot welding works the best, riviting also works, which is what I did to mine as well with no complaints so far. If your doors are rusty and rocker panels etc. you'll need new sheet metal/panels, Quadrtec will get you started, but look around for the best prices they seem to run high on certain things. Rusty Offroad is a good place for parts as well.
Frankoz (The smoking Baby) is a good source of info and ideas for your XJ.
You can also tube frame that weak uni-body, I have seen a couple of different styles and they pretty good but you need to be able to weld. Uni-body supports work great as well (Rustys Offroad and detourusa) can help.
I hope that get you started, and Yes you are right they all rust out, just not 95's bad design I guess.
I hope you have it up and running soon.
Either way you have to cut the rust out and then put new metal. You can use thin sheet metal, but I suggest not to skimp on the thickness of the metal. POR 15 works well as a rust convertor and barrier for new rust, but you need a lot and it is $$$$. I really like this product it works wonderfully.
Spot welding works the best, riviting also works, which is what I did to mine as well with no complaints so far. If your doors are rusty and rocker panels etc. you'll need new sheet metal/panels, Quadrtec will get you started, but look around for the best prices they seem to run high on certain things. Rusty Offroad is a good place for parts as well.
Frankoz (The smoking Baby) is a good source of info and ideas for your XJ.
You can also tube frame that weak uni-body, I have seen a couple of different styles and they pretty good but you need to be able to weld. Uni-body supports work great as well (Rustys Offroad and detourusa) can help.
I hope that get you started, and Yes you are right they all rust out, just not 95's bad design I guess.
I hope you have it up and running soon.
thank you, i'll try to start sometime this month. I just wondered about the rust because i also own a '92 Cherokee and '97 Grand Cherokee and neither have rust or rusty parts. It was only recently that i discovered the first rust (any rust at all - small or large) on one of my jeeps. so i just found it odd that a '92 wouldn't be rusted but the '95 would. And it looks way worse than
BLKXJ 96 pictures on the post.
The rusted jeep is mechanically perfect, the engine is new, transmission, clutch, gearbox, etc...are all new (i made the previous owner change them) and its just the rust.
I'll try to fix up the rust before i fall through!
#43
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl 4.0
I am new at reconstructing my 1996 Jeep Cherokee and need to replace the rear floor, your pics are awesome but how can I tell if any of the body has broken off the frame rails? can you give me advice as to what I am looking for?
thanks I appreciate it.
#44
Just started my whole floor replacement today I was thinking of going with the full rear pan but decided to move the gas tank up so I will be framing the rear for the tank and I'm also plating the unibody with 1/4 inch plate