Radiator Drain Plug

al2ride · 08-14-2009, 04:49 AM

I can't believe where they put the drain plug on the radiator. I've seen some bad designs, but damn! I had to remove the passenger side light bezel and turn signal to get to it, and even then I couldn't turn it. I finally go it off and then on, but wow, what a task. To be honest, it was easier dropping the fuel tank to change out the press regulator than to drain the radiator.

I could

the engineer that came up with that idea.

robertj · 08-14-2009, 09:33 AM

The easiest way to flush that system out is to remove the air box and then remove the lower radiator hose. I usually buy 8 or so gallons of distilled water and start fill/flush/drain via lower hose method 4 or 5 times. By the 4th time it's coming out pretty much clear. Use a flush product of your choice on the first drain and flush and just the water thereafter. After the last drain simply fill with full strength antifreeze (again of your choice) and you're set since you already have the distilled water in the block. Clean the overflow tank really good and put full strength antifreeze in it as well.

al2ride · 08-14-2009, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertj

The easiest way to flush that system out is to remove the air box and then remove the lower radiator hose. I usually buy 8 or so gallons of distilled water and start fill/flush/drain via lower hose method 4 or 5 times. By the 4th time it's coming out pretty much clear. Use a flush product of your choice on the first drain and flush and just the water thereafter. After the last drain simply fill with full strength antifreeze (again of your choice) and you're set since you already have the distilled water in the block. Clean the overflow tank really good and put full strength antifreeze in it as well.

Good idea. I actually bought one of those flush t's and flushed it through the input to the heater core, I also removed the thermostat. I also bought the 50/50 antifreeze and need to figure out how to get most of the water out of the block before filling it up with 50/50. There was a lot of junk in the system and I think the heater core is pretty much rusted out. I will remove the lower radiator hose to see if I can get more stuff out of the system since with the T, the fluid comes out of the radiator cap and I'm afraid heaving sediments are not getting out.

red rider · 08-14-2009, 01:31 PM

Hey al2ride,
Not to hijack your post, but.. did the pressure regulator solve your starting problem?

al2ride · 08-14-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red rider

Hey al2ride,
Not to hijack your post, but.. did the pressure regulator solve your starting problem?

No, the problem with starting is due to a leaky check valve on the fuel pump. Not going to replace the pump since the pressure is good. I'm working on installing an external check valve. I think it's a 5/16" hose coming out of the tank, just need to verify before I buy one.

red rider · 08-14-2009, 04:20 PM

I'd be very interested in the outcome. Where you placed the valve and from whom you purchased it.
Thanks

hedbutter · 08-14-2009, 05:51 PM

on my 2000, i got to the plug by taking off the passenger bumper cap, but it was still a pain in the ***

Firestorm500 · 08-14-2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hedbutter

on my 2000, i got to the plug by taking off the passenger bumper cap, but it was still a pain in the ***

Remove the grille (8 screws on pre-97s) and the petcock/plug is right there.

robertj · 08-14-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al2ride

Good idea. I actually bought one of those flush t's and flushed it through the input to the heater core, I also removed the thermostat. I also bought the 50/50 antifreeze and need to figure out how to get most of the water out of the block before filling it up with 50/50. There was a lot of junk in the system and I think the heater core is pretty much rusted out. I will remove the lower radiator hose to see if I can get more stuff out of the system since with the T, the fluid comes out of the radiator cap and I'm afraid heaving sediments are not getting out.

The bad thing about the flush kits is you're putting water full of minerals into your cooling system.

al2ride · 08-15-2009, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red rider

I'd be very interested in the outcome. Where you placed the valve and from whom you purchased it.
Thanks

I'll try to document the procedure once I get the right size valve...I'll also see about pictures.

al2ride · 08-15-2009, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robertj

The bad thing about the flush kits is you're putting water full of minerals into your cooling system.

I know, but it is definitely better than it was...a lot of dirty coolant came out of it. I actually flushed it until it was all clear, then added a cleaner, drove it about 30 miles, and flushed it again...a little more dirt came out, I then flushed with water, then used compressed air to blow most of it out...I know some still remains but it's best I could do. It took 2.5 gallons of 50/50 so I know that most of the water came out...Not perfect, but much better than it was.

Firestorm500 · 08-15-2009, 09:05 PM

Sounds like you were very thorough.

rednecknick · 12-17-2011, 01:03 PM

so does anybody have pictures of where the drain plug would be on a 2000

Gee oh Dee · 12-17-2011, 01:30 PM

I just pull a radiator hose.

Easy, and a much larger opening.

xjsnake · 12-17-2011, 05:08 PM

There's a drain petcock?

I've never bothered to look for one. I just use the lower radiator hose like others on here have said.

08-14-2009, 09:33 AM	#2
robertj Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 507 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: AT Transfer Case: Command Trac Front Axle: Stock Rear Axle: Stock Tires: Yokohama Geolander Lift Specifications: Stock	The easiest way to flush that system out is to remove the air box and then remove the lower radiator hose. I usually buy 8 or so gallons of distilled water and start fill/flush/drain via lower hose method 4 or 5 times. By the 4th time it's coming out pretty much clear. Use a flush product of your choice on the first drain and flush and just the water thereafter. After the last drain simply fill with full strength antifreeze (again of your choice) and you're set since you already have the distilled water in the block. Clean the overflow tank really good and put full strength antifreeze in it as well. __________________ 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0 AT - Stock for life

08-14-2009, 05:51 PM	#7
hedbutter Seasoned Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central, PA Posts: 453 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: D30 Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: Stock Lift Specifications: Stock Misc Accessories: Front and Gastank skid, Front D-Rings, Satellite Radio	on my 2000, i got to the plug by taking off the passenger bumper cap, but it was still a pain in the *** __________________ 2000 XJ: JCR Stage 4 Front and Stage 2 Rear Bumpers, bedlined, front and gas tank skid. Flares and below trimline painted black.

12-17-2011, 01:03 PM	#13
rednecknick Junior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: new jersey Posts: 35 My Photos 2000 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L i6 Transmission: auto Front Axle: dana 30 Rear Axle: chryo 8.25 Tires: 28.5in goodyear wrangler radial tire p235 75r15	so does anybody have pictures of where the drain plug would be on a 2000 __________________ Only In a Jeep An Addiction to Cherokees

12-17-2011, 01:30 PM	#14
Gee oh Dee ::CF Moderator:: Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 19,372 My Photos 1987 Cherokee Engine: Check Transmission: Check Transfer Case: Check Front Axle: Yep Rear Axle: Yep Tires: On tight enough Lift Specifications: Has one Misc Accessories: Barely has floors	I just pull a radiator hose. Easy, and a much larger opening. __________________ Rest in peace Brian 96_XJ Perrine "Build" thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pro...herokee-58248/ "...To ride a motorcycle well is like making the choice to live in this world and the next simultaneously; It is to carelessly play with hell's devils and God's angels together because anything less would be, to the moto-enthusiast, to do nothing at all..."

12-17-2011, 05:08 PM	#15
xjsnake Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: OH, TN, MI Posts: 784 My Photos 1997, 1993 Cherokee Engine: 4.0L	There's a drain petcock? I've never bothered to look for one. I just use the lower radiator hose like others on here have said. __________________ Once you go Jeep, you never go back!!! 1993 XJ Country 1997 XJ Sport Check out my Headlight Upgrade Writeup! http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/headlight-upgrades-151217/

08-14-2009, 01:31 PM	#4
red rider Newbie Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 9 My Photos Cherokee	Hey al2ride, Not to hijack your post, but.. did the pressure regulator solve your starting problem?

08-14-2009, 04:20 PM	#6
red rider Newbie Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 9 My Photos Cherokee	I'd be very interested in the outcome. Where you placed the valve and from whom you purchased it. Thanks

08-15-2009, 09:05 PM	#12
Firestorm500 CF Veteran Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 2,107 My Photos 1987, 1992 Cherokee Engine: 4.0, 4.0 HO Transmission: 4 spd auto OD Transfer Case: New Process Tires: LT 235/75R15 Hankook Lift Specifications: stock Misc Accessories: Warn XD9000i (87)	Sounds like you were very thorough.

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