Dragon01

i just got a new radiator from Murrys, it looks nice. while trying to remove the old radiator everything came out perfectly except for the lower radiator line. i loosened the nut but it wont come out. it looks to have some odd quick disconnect fitting i think on it. this would not bother me except for the fact that the new radiator has completely different connections. neither the quick disconnect (that i cant figure out how to remove) or the top line will mate up with the new radiator fittings :-(
I'm lost. i got the radiator very cheap and would really like to get it working.

do i even need to hook the trans lines to the radiator? i have an aftermarket trans cooler on the truck that works incredible.
is there an easy solution to this problem????
i need to get my truck running by tomorrow night. any help is greatly appreciated.

i have pics if needed. the upload file feature does not seem to work... i can e-mail them.

BTW the jeep is a 2000 4.0 sport if this helps narrow down a solution.

Cherokeefever

Bottom line has an plastic clip "theres two types" that holds the hose on. If your lucky theres two plastic ears sticking out and u squeeze the ears and pull the line off " might have to push it forward to unlock" and u`ll have to put that plastic clip on the new radiator

storm101

Well as for the radiator, if nothing matches up, it may be the wrong one.
Being a 00 you probably have the metal ring clip type, it takes a special tool to get it off, or a few small screwdrivers and some time...lol Heres a thread that should help you determine what yours has, and how to get them apart (has pictures)

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...nection-32259/

As for the line going to the radiator, i would get it back on there, if it wasnt needed, it wouldnt be there!

Im a strong believer in doing things the way they should be, keeps problems down and keeps something that was jerry-rigged from breaking down on you....which usually happens at the worst time.

If you feel the radiator is the wrong one....i would spend more and get the correct one JMO on that though......the cooling system isnt anything to really play around with on these, the 4.0 does not like overheating!

Good luck!

bryanboonern

When I replaced my radiator, I got the tool I needed for the so called quick disconnect and it took me about 2 hours of twisting and pulling to get it off. Then when I went to put it back on there was no way it was going to fit on the new connector. I just cut the frikkin thing off and used a couple good ol hose clamps.

Dragon01

thx everyone, i figured everything out.

the "quick release" was obviously not quick at all, and like Bryan it did not fit on the new adaptor. so i did same as he.. cut the quick disconnect off and clamped the hose on.
the reason of the non matching connectors was the new radiator did not come with the adaptors as was needed. went back to the parts store and they gave me the required bag of parts.

tn_outside

In regards to the Quick Disconnect:

Cut the quick disconnect off. Get a brass male-to-male 3/8 adapter and 2 inches of 3/8 hose. Re-assemble with rubber hose and 3 hose clamps. The quick-disconnect is stupid, difficult to use and unnecessary.

In other words: you can slip the rubber hose right over the copper tube coming from the radiator and secure with a hose clamp. However, once you cut the quick-disconnect out of the system, the hose will be about 2.5 inches short. Just add 2 inches of hose and the brass adapter (the half inch of length) and you are good to go.

The rather blurry photo below shows the finished result. Works like a charm. Nothing to worry about. The coolant system is under MUCH more pressure than the transmission. And the coolant is held together with hose clamps. So use them and don't worry. It'll be fine.

tn_outside

I should point out that you should only cut it off if the quick disconnect gives you grief. Which it typically does. If it comes right apart....it will probably leak when reassembled. Then you will have to cut it off. Unless you get lucky...and it comes apart easily....AND it doesn't leak.

Which leads us back to "Cut it off."

cmineo2

this is exactly how i spent my day today, after messing with the 'quick connect' for 4 hours, i reinstalled the new fitting back into the 'quick connect', put the trans into drive with parking brake on, and the fitting leaked.

so tomorrow, i am cuttin it off and doing like the picture shows....

thanks guys ... at least im not the only one with this issue.

cmineo

BimmerJeeper

Anyone have a photo of this quick disconnect hack? The one above is gone. I am going to try my radiator and have a feeling this will be a 10 hour nightmare. Want to be as prepared as possible.

weebur

Good luck. Don't bypass the radiator, not only does it cool the trans fluid it warms it on cold days.

krnkimchi702

this. im thinking about doing this, but im more of a visual person...

Grandi.Manson

'91 laredo. got me a scavanged durango pitma arm, but thats the extent of "mods" she has thusfar. k, here we go...

so after a few days of searching the web and several hours of serching threads here, i have learned that the trans cooler quick connections a) create a lot of frustration; b) dont work "quickly"; c) nore do they work very often; d) AND everyone seems to have a nifty fix using 3/8" oil hose and clamps to fix thier leak (near the RADIATOR)...

of course my leak is the crap-disconnect at the transmission. ordered meself a dorman quick-disconnect, slid everything together and got to shoving and cussing at the connection. i'm not sure if the line is misbent, or illaligned, but nothing fit and the o-rings came out pinched in two.

i like the idea of chopping off the end of the trans tube. seems that the fix is easy to maintain and doesnt require "re-fixing". my question arises after i chop the tube, slide clamps and hose onto the tube, how does the altertion afix to the connector on the transmission? the factory set up has the tube fit INSIDE of the connector... and i dont see the 3/8" hose sleaving the large, long, hex shaped fitting on the trannie.

after much reading i also saw someone mentioning having used a hose barb... i have difficulty grasping how a hose barb would be used on a s.s. tube.
dude, i'm lost.


its dark, and the only camera i have is on me phone. so i'll try pics tomorrow, but i think this is pretty straight forward.

tn_outside

I made the link to the photo work again. Sorry it was down.

And I learned something interesting: The drain plug for the radiator (2000-2001) can be accessed by removing both headlight bezels (two screws each), and the grill (four screws). Then, on the left, when standing in front of the bumper, you can reach in with a pair of channel locks and GENTLY open the stop ****.

I was always like "How the heck am I supposed to get to that drain?

BUT...all things being equal, if you have a hose clamp pointed the right direction on your lower radiator hose it is probably just as easy to simply pull the lower hose...

AND, replacing the radiator, even for a newb, is not a 10 hour nightmare. Takes a couple of hours, tops, working slow, unless you are really, really bad at mechanics. Then maybe five or six (I can't imagine). If you have the disconnect tool for the tranny line and some hose and brass adapter going into it then you shouldn't have any worries. Getting the fan shroud and electric fan out of the way is the largest part of the job.....