Scooterpookin

Need to replace bushings and looking for the correct names for things to buy new. Diagram sway bar

fb97xj1

PatHenry

The first picture is your sway bar to frame bushing. (And tie rod at pitman arm, as shown in fb97xj1's diagram) The replacement part is readily available, but you need to determine the diameter of the sway bar. The replacement bushings are split to make installation easier.

I used Moog for mine and so far it's been working great.

The tie rods are easiest to replace if you have an impact to get the castle nuts off (those are the nuts with the slots for the cotter pin). They can spin at the stud if they're really bad and the impact helps to get the nut loose from the stud. You can replace the entire steering system (tie rods, drag link, etc) for a couple hundred bucks.

Edit - the sway bar link (last picture) doesn't look great (the bushings are compressed from over-tightening), but doesn't need to be replaced right away.

Scooterpookin

Approach to install the bushings but I'm having a really hard time getting the sway bar & sway bar link back together it was a little tight getting off but now nothing seems to line up. Is it because I have it jacked up the wrong way or is my swaybar bent. The point where the sway bar frame and the sway bar link meet( 3rd photo). Cant get the angle right.

5-Speed

Put the Jeep 100% back on the ground and it should be pretty easy to get everything to line up. It must be sitting level to get the end links on.

fb97xj1

Mine was on the ground and it still fought me a little, but still went smoothly. What worked for me was putting the endlinks onto the axle, and then the swaybar onto both endlinks, leaving the upper endlink nuts loose, and let it all hang. I swung the swaybar up and hand started the bolts on one side, followed by the other. The extra slack from not torqueing it down yet helped me quite a bit. Once everything looked straight and centered, i torqued it all down.You dont need to torque the upper endlink nuts tho. Just tighten them until the bushing is the same diameter as the washer. You can follow the torque specs for the rest. Theyre floating around here somewhere.