Pinion Yoke Replacement
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Year: 1992
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Pinion Yoke Replacement
Hey All,
I've been having bad vibrations on 92 XJ with C8.25 rear end. I noticed the pinion yoke has some wear on one of the tabs that holds the U Joint in place. One tab is thicker than the other. How hard is it to replace this part? Does it require special tools or can I just pull it off with impact gun and slide it right off? Any info and tips would be much appreciated.
I've been having bad vibrations on 92 XJ with C8.25 rear end. I noticed the pinion yoke has some wear on one of the tabs that holds the U Joint in place. One tab is thicker than the other. How hard is it to replace this part? Does it require special tools or can I just pull it off with impact gun and slide it right off? Any info and tips would be much appreciated.
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Year: 2001, 1997
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Pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve and torque specification. Factory procedure requires measuring the rolling torque of the pinion before removal so you can set the same rolling torque on re-installation. Measuring and setting the rolling torque can be done with a beam type torque wrench or a Snap On Torqometer or similar. Click type torque wrenches cannot measure rolling torque.
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Pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve and torque specification. Factory procedure requires measuring the rolling torque of the pinion before removal so you can set the same rolling torque on re-installation. Measuring and setting the rolling torque can be done with a beam type torque wrench or a Snap On Torqometer or similar. Click type torque wrenches cannot measure rolling torque.
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Year: 2001, 1997
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I am not sure marking the relationship of the shaft to the yolk is a strict requirement. As far as removing the wheels and drums it makes sense to do it this way to get a more consistent reading. When I did mine, I had the axle on jack stands with the brakes off. You can hold the old yolk with a pipe wrench and a long pipe and use a breaker bar and long pipe to get the old one off and the new one back on. When you put the new yolk on and finger tighten the nut the yolk will probably have some slop in it. As you tighten that nut, you need to be very careful not to exceed the original rolling torque. Basically tighten in 1/4 turn increments and keep checkin the rolling torque. If you do, it means you changed the crush sleeve. Proper procedure would call for you to install a new crush sleeve if that happens. Google for You Tube videos on rebuilding a differential will give you a visual idea.
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Cool, Thanks! I went to the junk yard and found a 97 with a 8.25 27 spline. This one should work being that my axle came out of a 96/97 XJ.
Would it be wise to replace the seal? Mine is not leaking at all. Can I just slap the new yoke on and torque it down with an Inch Torque Wrench?
Would it be wise to replace the seal? Mine is not leaking at all. Can I just slap the new yoke on and torque it down with an Inch Torque Wrench?
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You can replace the seal if you'd like. I didn't when I put in my Axle in. Rolling torque is the force required to keep the pinion turning. Not the torque on the nut to achieve it. It takes a big breaker bar to tighten that but enough to get the proper rolling torque. Watch some YouTube videos for a visual.
Last edited by md21722; 11-24-2014 at 10:06 AM.
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You can replace the seal if you'd like. I didn't when I put in my Axle in. Rolling torque is the force required to keep the pinion turning. Not the torque on the nut to achieve it. It takes a big breaker bar to tighten that but enough to get the proper rolling torque. Watch some YouTube videos for a visual.
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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but my question is related.
Say you're a dope like me and didn't know about all these details when changing your yoke. How would one correctly redo this since you have no idea what the rolling toque was?
Say you're a dope like me and didn't know about all these details when changing your yoke. How would one correctly redo this since you have no idea what the rolling toque was?
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