Overheated bad, now running like crap. PLEASE HELP
08-23-2015, 10:47 PM
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Overheated bad, now running like crap. PLEASE HELP
98 4.0
Keeping it short. Overheated bad,fixed overheating issue, changed oil and trans fluid. Since then (a week ago) the jeep has acted weird.
- no overheating, and runs fine most of the time.
-occasionally, at least once per drive, it will run like absolute crap for a few minutes. It almost seems like a misfire but no code. It putters to death and the rpms fall, then the fly up and the engine bucks.
-no oil in coolant that I can see and vice versa. Haven't noticed any white smoke. Oil kind of smells like gas but not sure.
I also have code p0463 which is some fuel thing, not sure If it's related.
Here is a link to the cars behavior in idle:
https://youtu.be/3ht-g3to_Js
Keeping it short. Overheated bad,fixed overheating issue, changed oil and trans fluid. Since then (a week ago) the jeep has acted weird.
- no overheating, and runs fine most of the time.
-occasionally, at least once per drive, it will run like absolute crap for a few minutes. It almost seems like a misfire but no code. It putters to death and the rpms fall, then the fly up and the engine bucks.
-no oil in coolant that I can see and vice versa. Haven't noticed any white smoke. Oil kind of smells like gas but not sure.
I also have code p0463 which is some fuel thing, not sure If it's related.
Here is a link to the cars behavior in idle:
https://youtu.be/3ht-g3to_Js
08-23-2015, 11:53 PM
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I think p0463 is high voltage at the fuel sending unit. Wouldn't say it's enough evidence but possibly the fuel pump slowly going out? Sending unit and pump are an assembly but aren't wired together except the harness plug, if that was corroded? Mine had a weird intermittent idle and power loss past 1/2 throttle and was barely keeping recommended fuel psi. Check fuel pressure too if it hasn't cleared up completely!
08-24-2015, 12:47 AM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Sounds like you probably have a cracked or blown head gasket. I agree with jeepsareforspeed, check the compression. What all did you work on or replace?
08-24-2015, 02:29 AM
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A compression test is too general. A better test is a leak down test for a blown head gasket. There are two other tests for a head gasket/cracked head, coolant combustion test (auto parts store) or Blackstone labs test.
The first is a chemical test which checks for oil/combustion gases in the coolant and the latter you send in a sample of oil.
The first is a chemical test which checks for oil/combustion gases in the coolant and the latter you send in a sample of oil.
08-24-2015, 09:49 AM
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Year: 1992
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Is there a test name for using the spark plug air compressor fitting in the spark plug holes? Or is that the leak down test? I found a blown head gasket already by doing that. Compressed air to the bad cylinder will blow coolant out of the radiator cap when it's off.
08-24-2015, 05:00 PM
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Year: 1995
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A compression test is too general. A better test is a leak down test for a blown head gasket. There are two other tests for a head gasket/cracked head, coolant combustion test (auto parts store) or Blackstone labs test.
The first is a chemical test which checks for oil/combustion gases in the coolant and the latter you send in a sample of oil.
The first is a chemical test which checks for oil/combustion gases in the coolant and the latter you send in a sample of oil.
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08-25-2015, 07:52 PM
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Did that just a few weeks ago. TPS tested bad, and replacing it made things much better for a while, but it went back to running like garbage every now and then, randomly, and it's like flipping a switch when it happens.
Compression is just fine - 145-150 on all cylinders. I don't think these symptoms sound like a head or head gasket.
Compression is just fine - 145-150 on all cylinders. I don't think these symptoms sound like a head or head gasket.
08-25-2015, 08:01 PM
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I'd do the compression test. It's good info if nothing else. Also, I set my compressor at something like 60-70psi. Then I took the compression tester and removed the valve stem nipple (not sure of correct term) so I essentially had a tube that threaded into the spark plug hole and would accept the compressed air via hose. I pumped air into all the cylinders to see where the air came out.
Listen for air coming out of other cylinders, oil filler cap, radiator, and exhaust. This should tell if anything is mixing that shouldn't be.
Listen for air coming out of other cylinders, oil filler cap, radiator, and exhaust. This should tell if anything is mixing that shouldn't be.
08-25-2015, 10:19 PM
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Blackstone will email you the report the day after they receive your sample if you include an email address.
If you send it in the bottle the way Blackstone suggests, USPS will set your sample on a table out back and stare at it for 30 days before deciding it's not going to explode. It takes roughly a month for a sample to get to Blackstone if you mail it in their bottle. You can speed that up by putting the bottle inside a box so the USPS people don't know it's a bottle, but then you just get the normal delay where they send it to other cities it shouldn't be visiting.
However, UPS ground gets it there in a few days. Last one I sent off was there in three days, and I got my oil report on the 4th day. It costs a little more, but it cuts WAY down on the time. I don't think a week or less is unreasonable.
And if you need an emergency test, you can pay the premium to overnight it, which will get you your results in two business days.
If you send it in the bottle the way Blackstone suggests, USPS will set your sample on a table out back and stare at it for 30 days before deciding it's not going to explode. It takes roughly a month for a sample to get to Blackstone if you mail it in their bottle. You can speed that up by putting the bottle inside a box so the USPS people don't know it's a bottle, but then you just get the normal delay where they send it to other cities it shouldn't be visiting.
However, UPS ground gets it there in a few days. Last one I sent off was there in three days, and I got my oil report on the 4th day. It costs a little more, but it cuts WAY down on the time. I don't think a week or less is unreasonable.
And if you need an emergency test, you can pay the premium to overnight it, which will get you your results in two business days.
08-26-2015, 01:06 AM
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Year: 1995
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Blackstone will email you the report the day after they receive your sample if you include an email address.
If you send it in the bottle the way Blackstone suggests, USPS will set your sample on a table out back and stare at it for 30 days before deciding it's not going to explode. It takes roughly a month for a sample to get to Blackstone if you mail it in their bottle. You can speed that up by putting the bottle inside a box so the USPS people don't know it's a bottle, but then you just get the normal delay where they send it to other cities it shouldn't be visiting.
However, UPS ground gets it there in a few days. Last one I sent off was there in three days, and I got my oil report on the 4th day. It costs a little more, but it cuts WAY down on the time. I don't think a week or less is unreasonable.
And if you need an emergency test, you can pay the premium to overnight it, which will get you your results in two business days.
If you send it in the bottle the way Blackstone suggests, USPS will set your sample on a table out back and stare at it for 30 days before deciding it's not going to explode. It takes roughly a month for a sample to get to Blackstone if you mail it in their bottle. You can speed that up by putting the bottle inside a box so the USPS people don't know it's a bottle, but then you just get the normal delay where they send it to other cities it shouldn't be visiting.
However, UPS ground gets it there in a few days. Last one I sent off was there in three days, and I got my oil report on the 4th day. It costs a little more, but it cuts WAY down on the time. I don't think a week or less is unreasonable.
And if you need an emergency test, you can pay the premium to overnight it, which will get you your results in two business days.
08-26-2015, 01:26 AM
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Is there a test name for using the spark plug air compressor fitting in the spark plug holes? Or is that the leak down test? I found a blown head gasket already by doing that. Compressed air to the bad cylinder will blow coolant out of the radiator cap when it's off.
08-27-2015, 09:43 AM
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Year: 1998
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I'd do the compression test. It's good info if nothing else. Also, I set my compressor at something like 60-70psi. Then I took the compression tester and removed the valve stem nipple (not sure of correct term) so I essentially had a tube that threaded into the spark plug hole and would accept the compressed air via hose. I pumped air into all the cylinders to see where the air came out.
Listen for air coming out of other cylinders, oil filler cap, radiator, and exhaust. This should tell if anything is mixing that shouldn't be.
Listen for air coming out of other cylinders, oil filler cap, radiator, and exhaust. This should tell if anything is mixing that shouldn't be.
I did the compression test and it checked out okay. Numbers were high, in the 180s, but they were all within 10 psi variation.
I pulled the plugs and wires and they looked like crap, so I replaced them, and now it's not doing it anywhere near as much, but every once in a while it'll hiccup.
I also currently have two codes, p0463 like I stated before, and now p1282, both fuel related. Could this be a cause? And what should I do to troubleshoot
Last edited by Ye Ol' Cherokee; 08-27-2015 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Mistake
08-27-2015, 12:37 PM
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P1282 is a fuel pump relay control (coil) fault.
The fuel pump may be kicking on and off due to the control coil fault.
You may want to go to your PDC and pull the fuel pump relay and make sure the relay pin cavities in the PDC base are not corroded or pushed down.
Some times just removing and reinstalling a relay will clean off the relay pins and cavities enough to refresh the contacts and do away with a fault.
If in doubt, swap the fuel pump relay with the radiator electric fan relay and see what happens.
This is unrelated to the other DTC.
Note that the fuel pump relay control coil is powered from fuse F11 in the JB. It also powers the ASD relay control coil. If F11 pins are corroded it may be causing the FP and the ASD relay to drop out.
The fuel pump may be kicking on and off due to the control coil fault.
You may want to go to your PDC and pull the fuel pump relay and make sure the relay pin cavities in the PDC base are not corroded or pushed down.
Some times just removing and reinstalling a relay will clean off the relay pins and cavities enough to refresh the contacts and do away with a fault.
If in doubt, swap the fuel pump relay with the radiator electric fan relay and see what happens.
This is unrelated to the other DTC.
Note that the fuel pump relay control coil is powered from fuse F11 in the JB. It also powers the ASD relay control coil. If F11 pins are corroded it may be causing the FP and the ASD relay to drop out.