Oil Type
11-14-2008, 10:28 PM
#4
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Year: 1989 2x
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
If it's always been syn. then you'll be ok. Only reason I say to run reg. with high miles is that the syn likes to slip passed seals and gaskets because it's so thin. 
11-15-2008, 01:27 AM
#6
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L
You should be fine with 5w30 since it will be so Fugggin cold there... you should also get a block heater... I would think a regular Dino will be fine...
11-15-2008, 02:39 AM
#7
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Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
If you can find it, I believe Mobil and QS make a 0W-30. That should be decent for the arctic, er um, I mean Alaska. Any 5W-30 otherwise, just don't mix syn, syn-blends, or trad. oils.
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11-16-2008, 11:30 AM
#11
Do you hear banjos?
The cool thing about a block heater, is that when you start the engine, it's already warm. You can slip into a warm and cozy Jeep, rather than a fridged one!! -10 is fracking cold!!
11-16-2008, 12:08 PM
#12
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lol yeah it is. How much is an engine block heater? Also, i wont have a power connector to plug into the wall or anything, so it may have to go off battery
11-16-2008, 04:32 PM
#13
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay... we went through this just awhile ago...
A quick search will turn up the discussion we had..
There is NO set mileage where using Synth is or is not recommended. not every motor has been treated the same, so not every motor is going to respond the same way.
Synthetic oil by design is more protective at thinner viscosities than Dino Oil. Part of this that they have a higher detergent level than Dino oils. What this causes is that if your seals and gaskets and such had small imperfections that were sealed up by junk, gunk, dirt and crud. The synth oils will clean these deposits out and make the seals and such leak. If these imperfections don't exist, then no leaks will be created. The old myth of synthetic oils creating leaks simply isn't true.
For a severe situation like winter in Alaska, the absolute heaviest viscosity I would use is 5w-XX. The first number is the viscosity at 0 degrees fahrenheit. The number after the dash is the viscosity at operating tempertures.
One of the most important thing to consider is the level of ZDDP in the oil. The new standard of API-SM isn't sufficent for flat tappet camshafts like our 4.0l and 2.5l... We need oils that comply to the older API-SL specification. These are getting harder to find, so do some investigation before buying your oil.
A quick search will turn up the discussion we had..
There is NO set mileage where using Synth is or is not recommended. not every motor has been treated the same, so not every motor is going to respond the same way.
Synthetic oil by design is more protective at thinner viscosities than Dino Oil. Part of this that they have a higher detergent level than Dino oils. What this causes is that if your seals and gaskets and such had small imperfections that were sealed up by junk, gunk, dirt and crud. The synth oils will clean these deposits out and make the seals and such leak. If these imperfections don't exist, then no leaks will be created. The old myth of synthetic oils creating leaks simply isn't true.
For a severe situation like winter in Alaska, the absolute heaviest viscosity I would use is 5w-XX. The first number is the viscosity at 0 degrees fahrenheit. The number after the dash is the viscosity at operating tempertures.
One of the most important thing to consider is the level of ZDDP in the oil. The new standard of API-SM isn't sufficent for flat tappet camshafts like our 4.0l and 2.5l... We need oils that comply to the older API-SL specification. These are getting harder to find, so do some investigation before buying your oil.
11-17-2008, 05:30 PM
#14
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
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Cool. Thanks dude. I was talking to some of my friends, and non of them have block heaters, so I dont know if thats a road i wanna go down...
11-17-2008, 06:04 PM
#15
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the pump-style block heater. It goes into the heater hoses and feeds through the water pump bypass and radiator. Works fantastic...
