Ratchet 99

My XJ has 150K on it. thinking of either Castro High Milage Oil, or for a lil more I can get Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. Any opinions either way, or is there something even better out there. Thanks!

highwater

Oh man this should a good one to follow ,just opened another can worms here "OIL" lol. Nah but I've always been told not to use synthetic in our xj's.

darknezz

Well I'm running o'rileys house brand (made by shell) full synthetic 5-30. it was only sale for $20 5qt jug WITH A FILTER, a wix gold no less.

Its stayed pretty clean and I havnt lost oil pressure, its been over 3k miles and I'm about to change it again though. I only lose around half a quart of oil between changes.

HOWEVER, I have noticed a new lifter tick that just randomly comes and goes when it wants too, not bad by any means, but id rather have it not.

I used to use castrol high mileage, which is a semi synthetic, 10-40 and will probably go back to it after this.
I've seen so many oil threads on here and everyone has theyre own opinions. All I know is that ur supposed to use oil with good zinc amounts and I'm still not sure which ones those are.

Ender

I use a PARTIAL Synthetic, Castrol high mileage, 10w-40. I've got 278,000 miles on my baby... I always love reading these threads, seems like NO TWO XJ's use the same oil! haha

Firehawk068

NONE of them........

They do not produce oil with Zinc in it any longer.

The last ones that were available that I know of were the Valvoline Racing
20W50, SAE50, and SAE60, but last I heard, they weren't going to offer them with Zinc any longer.
You can still purchase a Zinc additive, or "ZDDP" but I am not sure who sells it.

Some environmental study somewhere determined that oil companies should no longer produce oil with zinc in it, because it is bad for your catalytic converter.

As far as the question of using synthetic oil or not?
Everyone will give you a different opinion, but you should do your own research, and come up with the choice that suits you best. There are some good sites on the web devoted to the subject, with alot of good information.

The last oil change I did, I used Valvoline Nexgen 50% recycled oil 10W30, because I got a free 5-liter jug for taking a survey.......
I am due for another oil change currently, and will be using Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 5W30, and a Mobil-1 Filter

darknezz

^^

oh man that sucks
they are trying to kill our "not enviro friendly engines" is what theyre doing.....a
I will continue to use whatever oil I feel like at the time lol, like i said ive been using castrol high mileage in my cars for awhile and been happy.

leethedeuce

I have 185k on my 96 and it's had synthetic since it was purchased at 40k. Use to run amsoil synthetic but switched over to mobil 1 full synthetic now. I have had a lifter tick for some time that I haven't tried tracking down but it runs great only uses maybe half a quart or so every 6 months or about 6-7k miles when I change the oil. So value wise and easy availability I personally think mobil 1 and mobil 1 filter is the way to go. I pick up the 5 quart jug for 23$ at walmart. ohh ya I did just try to replace 1 quart of oil with lucas oil treatment last week when I changed my oil. I am going to see if this helps the illusive tick at all.
Hope this helps,
Lee
edit: Also has conventional oil been used the whole 150k? I have heard not to switch over to synthetic with high mileage like that. It's a lot thinner and some oil leaks may show. You may want to try a synthetic blend.

DEOR

Valvoline 10w30, with Lucas additive.

This is my first oil change on this xj. i was debating 10w30 or 40 but went with the thinner because i wanted to add lucas and didn't want it to be to thick.
i always add lucus, adds about 10 bucks to your oil change but seems to make a big difference with cold starts among other things. i could hear the difference in my old diesels any way, so im a Lucas believer threw and threw.

Slick761

Over and over and over and over. I give up. Put gear oil in it.

leethedeuce

Ya my uncle is a diesel mechanic and always uses lucas oil thats why I figured I would give it a shot. I use 5w30 full synthetic in mine.

Slick761

I've said it once ill say it a million times. There is nothing wrong with synthetic. It is a superior oil. The only reason you would get a leak is if the seal was bad in the first place. Synthetic cleans up your crankcase and when the funk is gone the leaks come out. 5-30 is the "thickest" oil you need. Oil additives are crap. I used to think Lucas and such were great in my 66 gt. Wrong! Just masks problems. Might as well pit a bit of 75-90 in it. If you have lifter rod or piston noise you got other issues. Putting thicker oil up to 10-40 does nothing when the oil is at operating temperature. It is the same "thickness" as 5-20 at 230 or so degrees. It doesn't lube properly at start up (higher pressure is not higher flow) and the thicker you go the longer it takes to flow properly.20-50 is thicker then the others at operating temp bit plays hell on your startup wear. People saying don't run synthetic are caught in the late 80s. Synthetic wasn't compatible with dino oil. Today things have changed. As far as lubrication and long life goes synthetic wins out over dino hands down.1990 laredo 5-30 synthetic no engine noises or leaks (got off my *** and fixed any bad seals)

cpnwrench

Ok,ok,ok, everyone has his/her own "feel-good" about oil types....

I run Valvoline 10w-40 (non-synth) in Ol' Red,,, since new...265,000 on her and still runnin great.

pros, engine has "worn-into" this type oil.
I am strong believer in synthetic, I run it in my bimmer all the time.

cons, synthetic is so freakin expensive....(hey!!!, dinnit that cpn guy just say he's running synth in his BMW? he must be a fisherman a.k.a. chronic liar-hypocrite), hahahahahahahahhahahaha

I usually go 8k between oil changes on the Jeep and can honetly say everything is running fine internally.

but, again, to each their own comfort zone right?

cheers all!

cpnwrench

Rustydog555

Grand dad put new oil in the family car ford crown Vick then put that oil in the old in the farm tractor then into the lawn mower then into gear housings and what ever was left greased everything else some reason the tractor and mower out lasted more than one Family car far as I know that old tractor is still running today it's not oil that causes failure it's the lack there of

Agent_Oragnge

When we figure out which is the "correct" oil to put in our rigs... we'll have figured the friggin meaning of life.

Agent_Oragnge

10W30 Dino juice,
15W40 Man Made,
90W gear oil,
Canola Oil,


PICK SOMETHING.