00xjalex

So I started pulling my pan last night on my 4.0 and the axle won't let the pan slide out I went looked on alldata( for thous that don't know it's a website most shops use and it tells you step by step directions) it said to undo the motor mounts and jack the motor up.
I'm wondering if anyone has any tips on how to do this with out jacking the motor?

rabid

On mine I losend the lower control arms and took the tires off to get the axle to lower a little more and came right out there are 2 bolts in the back of control arm and a primary pivot bolt losen the primery and losen the to on the back side put stans on unibody and a small jack under axle and lower it till u have enugh room u might have to take u sway bar off I have quick disconectss so that wasn't a big deal

mjonesjr

You either need to raise the motor or lower the axle lower than just taking the tires off and dropping it will allow.

It would be easier to remove the motor mount bolts and jack the motor up from the bottom via the crank pulley. The motor mount bolts are easy to get to.

This would also be a good time to inspect and replace motor mounts. The Jeep 4.0 motor mounts are known for tearing.

TrekkerJmm

This one worked for me on my 1994 when we did the RMS...tj

s14unimog

Lift it! I just did my rear main seal last night and at 4.5" the pan comes right out. I would recommend lowering the axle, as previously described, over lifting the motor, but you decide. Just to forewarn you, that oil pan gasket is a PIA to get situated. GL!

00xjalex

Alright cool I was thinking the same thing about dropping the axle it's lifted 3 inches n I just need maybe a half inch to slide it out I heard to use 2 inch bolts with the heads cut off to Aline it easyer when installing has anyone tryed this

HCCAFan

If you disconnect the sway bar and put a small jack between the axle and the frame, you should be able to wiggle it out. Assuming the front wheels are off the ground of course ...

s14unimog

yeah you should be real close to getting it out. The problem for me wasn't aligning the bolts but rather the features for the rear bearing cap and timing cover. The steel structure of the gasket will help prompt it to stay on the pan as you lift it into position its just those ends. I had four of the pan bolts handy and ignored those features until I got the pan loosely "hung" up there. Then I alternated between removing two from the front, to lower the pan and align the timing cover feature, to removing two from the rear, to situate the rear feature. I read someone's install about doing studs but I don't think its necessary.

00xjalex

So that end pice is called a rear bearing cap? Cause I broke that some how to

00xjalex

And ya the front wheels are off the ground

s14unimog

Surely you didn't break the bearing cap. Describe what you are referring to. The bearing cap is held in by two larger bolts; it holds 1/2 of the bearing the crank.

00xjalex

On the back of the oil pan there's a pice help in by 2 larger bolts but only one size bigger then the other bolts ?

00xjalex

It's like a half circle pice

00xjalex

I called my dealer they said it's just a braket

HCCAFan

Yeah lol. That is not the bearing cap. That's just some annoying piece they put on the back of the oil pan.